Browse the FAQ here:
http://r1150r.org/board/viewforum.php?f=18 It has almost everything you'd need to know without the manual.
Cliff Notes:
Tool kit has all but three needed tools but you can readily invest in better quality shop tools. There is a list in the FAQ.
You can easily change your fluids and filters except for the brake fluid - it is a bit harder to do. See the FAQ's with pics.
Keep your battery, tires, and lights in good working order and the bike will likely stay trouble free. You can ride every day at least 25 miles at 4000 rpm to keep the battery fresh or invest in a
Battery Tender branded charger which works through your accessory socket. 2 weeks without riding can drain the battery below proper operating thresholds.
Join this board for $20 ($60 Lifetime) and get a nifty color coded username, the esteem of other members, and a useful resource.
Here are some other good tips: Oil = SG grade (not the newer SJ/SL/SM grades but they will work). Mineral or synthetic is okay. Rotella Diesel 15-40 is a good choice. 3.75-4 quarts per change - the middle sight glass dot is optimal. When checking oil, leave the hot bike on the sidestand for several minutes to let all oil drain from the oil coolers, then centerstand and check warm. Sometimes, checking again in the morning cold will yield an alarming drop in the level. DO NOT WORRY. Tire pressure 36-38 front and 38-42 rear mostly based on your weight. 170-180 lbs is the factory standard. Preload rear shock at normal (middle line - it's labeled), then adjust to suit. Set both front and rear rebound screws at FULL HARD minus 1 1/4 turns. Adjust to taste from there. Do these one at a time, then ride and feel the differences before changing other settings. The telelever front and the paralever rear should give you trouble free operation with no adjustments after initial settings unless you spring for new shocks. Ohlins, Wilbers, Hyperpro, and Works are all good alternatives. Yes, the servo assisted, partially linked, ABS brakes are controversial, loud, and grabby. But they work well despite the arguments. Idiot lights are there for you: blinking at start-up; off after rolling is good. If the blinks continue, check rear brake bulb first (don't ask why, just do it). Next check battery state of charge (13.6 is desired for normal operation; below that throws ABS initializing faults). If ABS fails, grab a hard pull of brake - they will work Hercules! It is called residual braking and it sucks, but it works.
Pilot Roads are the best tire. All the others suck.
No matter what Towerworker says later tonight, there is no radiator.