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With a full tank & fire extinguisher's (incase 1 fails) this would be safe to do on the bike, but no room to do it by drill.
A small dremel & grinder disk might work with a fully summerged sponge to catch metal grindings.

?1. Are grinding going to sink, or get past fule filter?

?2. Fill air space in tank with nitegon to eliminate explosion & reduce fire hazard?

?3. Put dry ice in gas neck, would co2 prevent fire other than a brief flash of fumes?

?4. Would dry ice ad water to the gas?

?5. Are there any grinder disks that do not spark?

thanks, Davidsfotos.com

I can't comment on the rest, but nitrogen will not work. It actually burns above a certain temp- we use argon instead at work.

I would recommend taking the filler neck out of the tank to eliminate all the stuff you're worried about. Is there a reason you don't want to do that?

jfslater98 wrote:I would recommend taking the filler neck out of the tank to eliminate all the stuff you're worried about. Is there a reason you don't want to do that?

What he said.

it's NOT hard.

oh - and grinding into the filler neck will definitely throw sparks and debris into the body of the tank as soon as you get through the steel. NOT a good idea.






but if you insist on doing it that way - please set up a camera and a remote feed to YouTube...

I do want to take the neck out but Someone thats done it said he though the gas tank had to be removed!

Does the tank have to be off to get the neck out?

No it doesn't have to be off, but...

There are vent hoses attached to that filler neck, and they must be placed back where they were, or you will likely have fueling issues. I believe there should be enough slack for you to remove them, after you've detached the filler mechanism. Now chances are, they are attached with these one-time use clamps. Others have had success in removing the clamps without cutting them (thus putting fine metal shavings in the tank).

I did not, and some metal got into the tank. This probably could've been avoided by stuffing a towel or something in the hole. But the tank was already off, fuel pump plate out, so I just siphoned and cleaned it out best I could. You should have some FI clamps ready, but I believe zip ties will work here OK, as I think the pressure is much lower than it is on the other end, near the fuel pump. (#4 in the pic below)

Taking the tank off is not that big a deal. 30 minutes if you are a mechanical dope like myself. And if you haven't done the metal quick disconnect fix yet, you really should. The cheap plastic OEM QDs are a ticking time bomb.

Sorry for the sermon on "fuel line health", I know you're looking for the quick way out.

Here is a pic from the manual, hope this all helps. This pic links to the larger version.

I just pulled the filler neck gubbins out and swathed them, and the whole with towels to ensure no sparks got anywhere dangerous then drilled - didn't disconnect anything.

Well done!

Gubbins?

I love when the folks "across the pond" check in.

riceburner wrote:

jfslater98 wrote:I would recommend taking the filler neck out of the tank to eliminate all the stuff you're worried about. Is there a reason you don't want to do that?

What he said.

it's NOT hard.

oh - and grinding into the filler neck will definitely throw sparks and debris into the body of the tank as soon as you get through the steel. NOT a good idea.






but if you insist on doing it that way - please set up a camera and a remote feed to YouTube...