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I have small hands and currently have my R1200R Brake and Clutch levers adjusted to the closest setting. I was wondering if anyone has experience with the different aftermarket levers that are out there. I am considering the pazzo levers but I am curious if the $200 for the pair is worth it. What if anything should I be concerned about.

thanks

Celeste

I am also quite curious about user feedback. The two levers I have been looking at are the Pazzo and Vario Levers. I am leaning towards the latter, but the cost is ridiculous.

The Vario levers look clunky to me compared to the Pazzo. Looking forward to find out what people think.

Celeste

I just ordered my Verio's and should have them on by next week. I'll take pix then. and give a report.

I too am intrigued by the Pazzo but have never used a set. However, another forum that I check on dedicated to my ZRX has quite a few users that are nuts about them. I'm waiting on the next group buy actually to give them a shot. Check out ZRXOA forums you'll find a fair amount of discussion on them, and mostly positive feedback.

A word of warning ... make sure the lever fits the way your hand operates the brake ..

I couldn't quite get comfy, and felt I'd lack control, on the OEM brake lever becasue of the way the outer section curves away from the handlebar - so I got the brake lever from Wunderlich that lies parallel to the handlebar - Rizoma Pazzo if memory serves (it's been in a box for two years, and I've moved house, so I couldn't find it to check). I have the Wunderlich Vario lever on my F650CS (its original lever is not really adjustable) so I figured they'd feel similar switching between bikes..

I TOOK IT OFF and put the original back on. The shape of the dog-leg in the Rizomas meant I couldn't quite get my right index finger onto the lever itself - and then two things happened - (1) the lever pinched my finger when pulled in, but worse (2) my finger prevented the lever coming right into the grip, so less than total braking. YIKES. In a planned stop, I could lift my index finger an pull the lever in fully - but in planned stop I don't need to brake that hard. In an emergency, I need to rely on reflex and reflex got me the two-fold problem I've just described - YIKES again.

The original is a lot like the Wunderlich Vario, and has a "softer" curve - which my right index finger fits safely underneath. So even though my finger won't reach out to the lever, I can pull it in on three fingers and get effective braking, planned or emergency. After two years, I'm used to it and barely notice ... and the switch to the Scarver does create any problems ..

I am using Wunderlicht (spelling?) levers for about a year now and can only say they are perfect for my hands which are small. Yes, they are expensive but given the level of comfort and adjustability I can only recommend them. You retain the original adjustment knob, you also have the quick change wheel on the top of the lever with 3 positions....put those two together and you end up with almost unlimited andjustments. You can also change the length of the lever itself. And they look cool :-)
alex

I have the Pazzo short levers and love them. I have them on their second closet to the grip setting and now shifting (I use all fingers when shifting so my pinky barely is on the clutch lever with the short lever) and braking (1 or 2 fingers) is much nicer than the originals. My only complaint and it's nitpicking is the Pazzo's are not "rounded" on the lever as much as I would like (can feel the ridge in the lever more than if they were totally smooth or rounded off) but still love them and the look IMHO is 10 times better than the original levers.

Dave

dderrig wrote:I have the Pazzo short levers and love them. I have them on their second closet to the grip setting and now shifting (I use all fingers when shifting so my pinky barely is on the clutch lever with the short lever) and braking (1 or 2 fingers) is much nicer than the originals. My only complaint and it's nitpicking is the Pazzo's are not "rounded" on the lever as much as I would like (can feel the ridge in the lever more than if they were totally smooth or rounded off) but still love them and the look IMHO is 10 times better than the original levers.

Dave

Can you tell me if any adjustements were required to ensure that the Clutch is fully disengaging at the closer settings?

Also do you know if the Pazzo close settings are closer than the closest adjustment on the stock levers?

Celeste

Celeste, yes definately closer that the stock levers and the clutch is disengaged for sure, the only adjustment you will have to make is the clutch engagement switch which will have to be move slightly (Just un-loosen a set screw and move it slightly).

Dave

dderrig wrote:Celeste, yes definately closer that the stock levers and the clutch is disengaged for sure, the only adjustment you will have to make is the clutch engagement switch which will have to be move slightly (Just un-loosen a set screw and move it slightly).

Dave

Dave,

Can you tell me where the set screw is for the clutch engagement switch? I cannot seem to find it on my diagram of the clutch lever assembly. Better yet can you show me in a picture?

thanks

Celeste

Celeste, it's directly underneath the switch which is just to the left of the clutch lever when looking at the clutch standing inFRONT of the motorcycle. You can see the wire jacket going to the switch, its the only wire that runs up to the clutch area, directly underneath that you will see a small set screw hole which you loosen and the switch will completely slide out from under the plastic cover that protects it from direct viewing (and water!). There is another thread here somewhere where I asked about adjusting it and I finally got a reply from someone who told me how to adjust the switch location in order to accomodate the different trigger point needed.

Dave

PS. If your still stumped I will take a photo for you but it will be hard to see as it's a very small set screw hole.

dderrig wrote:Celeste, it's directly underneath the switch which is just to the left of the clutch lever when looking at the clutch standing inFRONT of the motorcycle. You can see the wire jacket going to the switch, its the only wire that runs up to the clutch area, directly underneath that you will see a small set screw hole which you loosen and the switch will completely slide out from under the plastic cover that protects it from direct viewing (and water!). There is another thread here somewhere where I asked about adjusting it and I finally got a reply from someone who told me how to adjust the switch location in order to accomodate the different trigger point needed.

Dave

PS. If your still stumped I will take a photo for you but it will be hard to see as it's a very small set screw hole.

So correct me if I am wrong, this adjustment is just so that the switch operates correctly so that if I start the bike in gear it will only start with the clutch in. This adjustment has no bearing on the actual clutch mechanism itself?

Motorcycle_Girl wrote:

dderrig wrote:Celeste, it's directly underneath the switch which is just to the left of the clutch lever when looking at the clutch standing inFRONT of the motorcycle. You can see the wire jacket going to the switch, its the only wire that runs up to the clutch area, directly underneath that you will see a small set screw hole which you loosen and the switch will completely slide out from under the plastic cover that protects it from direct viewing (and water!). There is another thread here somewhere where I asked about adjusting it and I finally got a reply from someone who told me how to adjust the switch location in order to accomodate the different trigger point needed.

Dave

PS. If your still stumped I will take a photo for you but it will be hard to see as it's a very small set screw hole.

So correct me if I am wrong, this adjustment is just so that the switch operates correctly so that if I start the bike in gear it will only start with the clutch in. This adjustment has no bearing on the actual clutch mechanism itself?

100% correct, if you don't adjust the switch and you set it to the closer adjustment the switch will not activate (you can hear the switch "click" when you pull the clutch in) and you won't be able to start the bike in gear (You can still start the bike in Nuetral though and then shift into gear).

Dave

Thanks for the info!

My Vario's are worth every penny to me...

The thread is here:

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f ... ario+lever