BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

When I did my cannister removal, I found some instructions on the BMWMOA site which included diagrams and pictures. Try a search there. Probably a link to it somewhere on this site also, just can't remember where.

It was really easy. Get some vacuum caps before starting to plug off the now-unused connections. I got a variety bag full of different sizes at the autoparts store for cheap.

Edited to say I could not find it on the BMWMOA site but found something here on the IBMWR site:

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ca ... horn.shtml

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I could pretty much guarantee that my whole bag of assorted vacuum caps cost less than one official BMW cap!

I recommend relocating the canister to the ABS hole if you have a non-ABS bike -or- elsewhere like into the top left rear bodywork bulge for an ABS model. The latter has not yet been performed . . . yet.

The link Vann thoughtfully provided is the one to use for canister removal. BTW, save that can as you may need it again or you can sell it on-line.

Removing the connecting balance tube between the L&R TB will increase the engine braking force very slightly because it is drawing a small additional air bleed quantity thru the hose of the the other cylinder whose intake valve is closed and it's TB idle air bleed is still functioning. It'll also make the TB idle synch slightly more important. Both of these balance tube removal changes will be very slight to the point of being barely noticeable, so don't let them drive you nuts.

Just for the record, I removed my canister because it plugged up and was causing a problem. I saved it but doubt it will ever leave the shelf, except to be thrown away.

(I had to explain - I know Rob is an advocate of keeping the canister! )

Yes, I am an advocate of keeping the canister, but NOT for the green tree clean air environmental or hydrocarbon emissions recovery/disposal functions it performs. That is ridiculous unless you are atmospherically trapped by a mountain range like LA is in CA.

I like it because:
-- It 100% prevents fuel smells from smelling up the garage.
-- It burns in the engine any/all fuel vapors that normally would escape into your living space.
-- It better isolates the fuel tank internals from water or moisture.
-- It takes no power from the engine.
-- It causes no performance degradation whatsoever.

I like it so much I would pay $40 to retrofit a bike that did not have such a system.

The R1150R canister hose spigots become plugged up with rust when the 2 vent hoses are mixed up after a fuel tank removal. That mixup, actually done by a BMW dealer years ago to RayLo828, connects the water drain hose from the fuelcap area to the charcoal granual fuel vapor cavity -and- connects the fuel vapor vent hose to the street drain hose.

The fuel canister (part #1) on my F800ST is black plastic, very lightweight and hidden out of sight well under the frame rails under the front portion of the seat. It's held in place on it's plastic form fitting holder bracket with a fat ZipTie (part #2). Here it is dismounted for the automotive 12V power socket's Battery/Accessory choice rocker switch. The lightweight, overall simpler design and corrosion free plastics are an improvement over the heavy steel can, bolts-n-brackets on the 50R system.

I never smelled gasoline fumes from either bike.



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I like......the solo seat, the highlighted BMW on the rear caliper. What it needs now is a fenderectomy and a post with bike pics.

Good work!!!