BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I am frustrated by the bolts that hold the brackets for the OEM touring windscreen. What a crazy design. I am talking about the impossible angle and limited space to get any leverage on the bolts to remove them.

I have tried using a ball-headed hex wrench to turn the bolts as suggested from a search on this site but to no avail. In fact I fear I may have started to strip one of the bolts. My guess is the brackets on the bike have been there untouched for up to 8 years and are seized up.

Any ideas of what to do?

If I ever do get the bolts out of there, is there a way to bend, cut, or otherwise remove that lip of metal that interferes with a clean shot at the bolt (I think people who are familiar with my problem will know what I am talking about).

Alternatively or in addition, is there a replacement bolt that has a head configuration that would be easier to remove next time?

Maybe once I get the bolts out--if I ever get the bolts out--I can use anti-seize and/or not tighten the bolts so that they make for easier removal next time. I am hoping to replace the touring shield with a fly screen I bought and can envision going back and forth between the two as the weather dictates.

As always, your help most appreciated.

Thanks

Tom W.

tlwood28 wrote:I am frustrated by the bolts that hold the brackets for the OEM touring windscreen. What a crazy design. I am talking about the impossible angle and limited space to get any leverage on the bolts to remove them.

I have tried using a ball-headed hex wrench to turn the bolts as suggested from a search on this site but to no avail. In fact I fear I may have started to strip one of the bolts. My guess is the brackets on the bike have been there untouched for up to 8 years and are seized up.

Any ideas of what to do?

If I ever do get the bolts out of there, is there a way to bend, cut, or otherwise remove that lip of metal that interferes with a clean shot at the bolt (I think people who are familiar with my problem will know what I am talking about).

Alternatively or in addition, is there a replacement bolt that has a head configuration that would be easier to remove next time?

Maybe once I get the bolts out--if I ever get the bolts out--I can use anti-seize and/or not tighten the bolts so that they make for easier removal next time. I am hoping to replace the touring shield with a fly screen I bought and can envision going back and forth between the two as the weather dictates.

As always, your help most appreciated.

Thanks

Tom W.

I feel your pain Tom, my mount bolts used to get loose and it's a real problem to get on that bolt. I used a lomg t-handled allen wrench to tighten it up and haven't had trouble with it since. I may have used blue loctite on it as well. Considering the trouble you have removing the upper mounts, you might think about installing the Sport shield instead of the Fly screen. The Sport shield looks pretty cool and uses the same mounts as the Touring shield. I have the dark tinted Sport shield and when I want the sporty look I mount it up, take off the bags and pretend it's a sport bike. It's such a shocking change the unimformed think I've brought a different bike to work.

If my memory serves of the short-lived touring screen on my bike, it took removal of the signals to remove the brackets.

Good luck.

...it took removal of the signals to remove the brackets

That would be the lower bracket, but I think Tom is having trouble with the one under the handlebar, right?

That bolt has had a history of loosening on my bike while using the touring screen, but not since I tightened it with a long, ball-headed allen-wrench (available inexpensively from Harbor Freight), which is the only way I found to get some torque on it. But since many have had this same this issue, and if there was a previous owner, maybe it has been Loc-Tited in place? If so, the application of some heat from a hair drier, or better a small heat gun (like is used for heat-shrinking insulation on wiring) to direct the heat to just the bolt hole. If you have to use a regular-sized, brute-strength heat gun, you can wrap surrounding heat-sensitive items (wires, brake master cylinder, plastic pieces, etc) with an aluminum-foil shield so they don't get cooked.

Good luck and let us know if it "works out" for you

tlwood28 - not sure I can help you with the removal if they are seized. It is indeed a real PIA to remove and reinstall. I also went from the sport shield to the flyscreen seasonally but have since sold the sport screen and use the flyscreen year round. The sport shield and touring shield use the same brackets BTW. And if you have to remove the turn signals, be careful! The turn signal stalk is cheap metal and breaks easily! Don't ask how I know!

If you finally get it off however, you might try what I did. Replacement of the allen head with a similar size in a standard hex head bolt. Still a pain but not nearly as much. Oh, and I too recommend loctite. Was having a problem losing bolts but no longer after a little loctite on them!

i cut a short piece of allen wrench just long enough to stick out of the allen head and used a box wrench to loosen/tighten.

I replaced my windshield & brackets last summer, now have to take it back off to
repair - and reinforce - a cracked mounting ear on the bracket, so am facing that
situation again, too.

Have one idea I'm going to try, don't know for sure if it'll work, but here goes -

Am going to see if a longer, i.e. 3" to 4", either hex head or (more likely) smaller
headed allen head bolt can be used - key will be if it will clear that black bracket that
makes getting a wrench on it so difficult. Maybe either a coated or probly better a
stainless bolt so it doesn't rust and get all nasty looking. Or if it looks like that'll
be too obvious, a black coated bolt. (anodized?)

If it will clear, I thought of screwing a nut onto the threads of the bolt, and
tightening the nut firmly against the end of the threads, which should leave
enough thread exposed to still attach the bracket as if using the standard
short bolt. If not, I'll try cutting another 1/4" or so of threads so there's
enough thread length left after screwing the nut on to attach the bracket.
A stainless bolt might work best if that's necessary.

The idea is to get the head of the bolt down and away from that impossible to
access area where the ultimate goal would be able to get a 3/8" drive allen
wrench on it, maybe with swivel and extension, and of course loctite it if all this works.

http://www.mediafire.com/?nqiyckyno2m

I wanted to remove mine, the bolt right under the right handle bar was a pain. I used a dremmel cutting disk to cut down the short end of a allen wrench AND then where the allen wrench makes a right angle I cut off about half of the right angle at a 45 degree (hope that makes sense, the right angle part of the allen wrench is now much thinner). Then the allen wrench will work fine, but you still can only turn it like 10 degrees, but that is enough to take it out and rotate the allen wrench one "face" and turn again and again.

I use a long ball-end hex wrench, which cuts down the angle of attack, with locking pliers (I used Facom ones which are much better than Vise Grip).

This combination works well for me, but it is a pain.

I said,

I tightened it with a long, ball-headed allen-wrench (available inexpensively from Harbor Freight), which is the only way I found to get some torque on it.

and should have added that it's a socket that fits on a 3/8" drive, and a set of them (metric) is available at Harbor Freight for $14.99

See them at: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=94534

You can even use a universal joint to improve the reach if necessary, like:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=6465

Now that looks like the best tool solution yet.

Hadn't thought about long socket style allen wrenches,
dont' ever remember seeing them, esp the ball end ones.

Thanks for the tip!

A proper sized ball headed allen wrench will work but is a challenge to get to. I dropped my bike once and the bolt stripped out of the upper triple tree. That part is nearly $500 if you have to replace it. I also found the threaded hole is much deeper than the oem bolt will access. I replace mine with longer bolts from a local hardware store to have more thread contact. A small drop of light oil on the threads will ease the removal or insertion of new. And loctite will help keep the bolt from working it's way loose.

Van--you may remember the little altercation we had on the side of the road down your way nearly two summers ago when the very same mounting bolt came loose!

Wayne

you may remember the little altercation we had on the side of the road down your way nearly two summers ago when the very same mounting bolt came loose!

Yes and it was all your fault! That old dude (relatively) wanted to kick your butt and I prevented it by presenting myself as his target. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Just had to finally deal with my R1150R windscreen brackets. I tried various combinations of what others have recommended and finally settled on cutting off the 6mm ball head allen key off one of the those cheap fold out allen key sets from Harbor Freight and cutting it about 1.25" long with a hack saw and using it as an allen socket in a 6mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet socket extension. The shaft is 6mm just like the head so fits the socket just fine. I tried the long ball head allen sock from Home Depot (Husky) but found the neck just below the ball is sliglty thicker than the cheap one in the fold out set so I could not get it to seat into the bolt well enough to grip when I turned the socket, the skinnier cheapo allows slightly more angle to seat in the the bolt head.

I lost one bolt completely and decided to try a slightly longer (M8 1.25 40 I think) rounded head anodized allen bolt as it too allows slightly more angle for the allen ball head to fit in the rediculous tight angles you have to work with. I put white locktite on both, as from what I could tell only about 3.25 threads actually screw into the triple tree, no wonder they vibrate loose. Hope this helps, link to photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/O8l50M3ItDKAV3H02

Also got new 1" long rubber well nuts from my local True Value hardware store to replace the OEM ones that hold the screen to the brackets. These replacements seems to work just as well as OEM.

You did well. That bolt is indeed a pia. I've had mine off many times and each time I fuss at it. I think you've realized the lack of thread capture. Can be a good thing though if you drop it as the bolts easily strip/pullout. A 5mm longer bolt is far less expensive than a new upper triple tree bracket. I'm glad the holes are far deeper than the bolts. I've had to take advantage of that fact more than once. And I also agree with the rubber well nuts, we have them at out local True Value for $1 each vs near $4 at BMW.


Wayne

I solved this problem by ditching the factory windshield and mounts altogether and getting a "tall" Parabellum setup. The factory touring screen dumped the wind load directly into my chest and face (I'm slightly over 6'3" tall) and just didn't work. The Parabellum shield uses it's own mounts and is rock-solid. They will also sell you an additional screen for about a hundred dollars; then you can just switch out the windshields and never have to deal with the mounts. They sell the windshields in several heights, and will even make one at a height you specify.