BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hi there,

have you changed the oilfilter as well? How about the oil in the gearbox/finaldrive? Does the bike have a service record?

1) front and rear dampers need no greasing. To the contrary, any grease would attract dirt thus leading to broken seals

2) no as the work on the front fork is being done by the damper

3) It is (not officially). But it is a bit of work. Check for postings from my nick, I had given a basic description here in the forum. However in reality you don't need the steering damper ... Only if you have extensive fairing and ride with a second person and additional weight the damper maybe useful.

4) Yes you can but it is a bit complicated. A description with photos in German is here http://www.powerboxer.de/4V-Hallschrank ... esten.html

- remove the tank
- locate the plug under the tank (see photo 2)
- disconnect the plug
- the male plug has the following pins (see photo): 1 = shield, 2 = signal S1, 3 = earth, 4 = +12V, 5 = signal S2, 6 = empty
- ignition MUST be OFF !
- measuring takes place on hall sensor side - NOT on motronic side of the connector!
- connect +12V to pin 4, earth to pin 3
- connect voltmeter plus to pin 4 and voltmeter earth to pin 5 (signal S2)
- put in high gear and slowly turn rear wheel (manually) in driving direction
- the reading of your voltmeter should drop from 12V to 0V for a little moment
- check same also with the other signal pin (connect voltmeter earth to pin 2 of the plug)
- should the voltage not drop to zero or only drop to a value above zero (2,5 or 3V) the thing has gone south and needs replacement

Typical effects of a damaged hall sensor is engine starts badly (or not at all), rev-meter jumps wildly up and down ...

Hope this helps.

Kind regards
Oliver

Howdy Oliver!

Changed:
-engine oil & filter
-gearbox oil (shifts much better!)
-final drive oil
-bled new DOT4 into both brake systems.

To try to test the ABS, I lock up the rear wheel and upon locking, the rear wheel has a BAD ratcheting effect of the rear brake. Is this the properly-functioning ABS system?

No service records

Re. bleeding the brakes I would not do this myself.

Re. ABS testing is quite simple. Drive on some road and break hard. If your wheels don't get blocked your ABS is working. If they get blocked it is not working and you have a serious problem.

Brgds
Oliver

My ABS must not be working, since the rear wheel does lock up in a ratcheting manner.

Is this normal? It seems bad to me.

The ABS light blink in unison while once the engine is started, then go off in a few minutes.

This is malfunctioning, correct?

The ratcheting manner is the ABS letting go, locking & letting go thats how ABS works??
Thats why a bike without ABS in the hands of an expert will stop quicker than ABS...

REALGRAVEROBBER wrote:My ABS must not be working, since the rear wheel does lock up in a ratcheting manner.

Is this normal? It seems bad to me.

The ABS light blink in unison while once the engine is started, then go off in a few minutes.

This is malfunctioning, correct?

Have you ever seen an ABS and do you know how this functions. You ask a lot of questions as if you wanted to do some expert repair works on your bike but the kind of questions you ask make me feel you have no clue of the simple basics. I'd hence suggest you leave your hands off some sensitive things like an ABS and let some expert do the job.

The ABS light blinking and getting off after a few minutes once you start driving is normal.

Best regards
Oliver