BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Just as the topic states. I would like to know is it just as easty to pull the three hoses off sand it down and respray or should I look for a new? what if i pulled it off and left it off? Would the bike implode? lol thank you folks! If anyone is interested in buying a rockster that is all stock abs green and black with a bagster, in MN please let me know... Trying to get the guts to buy a 2010 RT. Got some travel plans. cheers.

if you like the idea of the canister, remove it and apply paint. Many of us have removed the can and capped the throttle bodies, really it's your choice. If you choose to remove the can, search "canisterectomy" on this site or on advrider for simple-to-follow instructions. You can thank California standards for the can, as US bike are the only ones fitted with the canister.

I used the following and it took all of 10 minutes:

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ca ... sterectomy

Thank you for the kind thoughts. Phillip

Still looking for the link to the "canisterectomy" on this site... Any help would be great!!

Phillip

Phillip,

Cut and paste the link that I applied in the second post. IBMWR will not open in the current window. If you are using firefox, right click and open in new tab. These directions are pretty straight forward.

The topic has been discussed here as well, these are the directions from the IBMWR site:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2097&hilit=canisterectomy

I removed mine when I started to notice the bike running a little off and a vacuum developing in the tank. As it turned out, the in-line T connecting the throttle bodies together and to the canister was broke (not sure how that happened). And every line excluding the vent line was full of charcoal. After plugging the bodies and removing the canister, the bike is running better. I'll be putting a tool tube in its place.

Jas

Thanks again I will Tackle this weekend. Are the plugs just a simple buy from a local auto store or should I buy beemer parts?

Are the plugs just a simple buy from a local auto store or should I buy beemer parts?

You can find plastic bolt caps at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware that fit well.

Something like $1 for package of 2 caps.

Had mine on for 2 seasons folowing cannisterectomy.

Well folks I got it done last night, all of 30 minutes. I noticed that tube G and H {from the canister schematic map} were criss crossed before the zip tie junction. I pulled of what I thought was G and smelled it a bit. Ah the smell of gas I think. so I connected that to E. I had an inch of tube to play with after cutting that away from the can. I notice a speckled cross on the actual tubing on one of the tubes of the two that have a zip tie around them to the frame just under the tank. What does that cross represent if anyone knows? I want to make sure I hooked up the fuel vent correctly. If I run the bike a couple of miles let say 6 and then try to open the gas tank and it is a hard open, then i have a problem i guess? I guess the main question is what is that white dotted cross on the pair of tubing that are zipped together. Other than that i have full confidence lol. No crumpled gas tanks here!!!

I would assume that the previous owner or a past mechanic marked the lines durning a tank removal/installation to insure that during installation the correct lines were joined back together.

After the canister removal you should have no problems with any lines being crossed/mismatched. All lines now lead to the road (battery and two tank lines).

Thank you for the kind words of reassurance!! the bike runs great and I never have to worry about that darn thing coming loose!! Thanks again.

Can I now fill the tank over the inner metal collar lets say to the middle of it on the inside on longer Rides to maximize the fueling stop?

Can I now fill the tank over the inner metal collar...?

One of the G/H hoses is overflow from that bright metal collar. Fill the tank up to the top and you'll see the overflow dripping out of hose.

Following my cannisterectomy, I kept the original length of the tank's vent & overflow hoses and just tucked them in the tangle around the RHS throttle body. The hoses ends exit on RHS of transmission case, rather than below footpeg as per original hose setup. And yes I've overfilled the tank and dripped gas down side of transmission, but without worry.

Having only the two hose lengths attached to tank simplifies tank removal just a bit.

Took me a little bit of time to remember where this picture was located on the site: