BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hello,

I love my Rockster, however after 2 ~1200 mile trips, I have found the handlebars to be a bit to far forward. My father has a r1150r with handlebar raisers and his bike feels much more comfortable. However I have noticed that his handlebars are also much more curved inward compared to the straight bar the Rockster has.

Has anyone tried to completely replace the handlebars on the Rockster to something more curved inward? Does anyone have any feedback as to what handlebar raisers they prefer?

Thanks

Hi
Had the same problem
I've had good luck and was easy fit (10,00mi) with stock r1150r bars
Cheers
Chris B

stock R1150R bars are a straight swap, but expensive.

I bought some "bar-backs" for somewhere in the states and they work just as well and are cheaper.

Thanks, I think ill try the raisers first.

The OE setup was a bit much for me too. Wrist and back pain on long rides.

But having ridden our former R1150R Roadster (with its handlebar) for 10M+ miles, I was resolute about keeping the Rockster's flatter, straighter, more aggressive bar. The lower/forward position is tops for non-windshield riding, with a bit more "sporty" feel.

The solution that fit me best was Wunderlich 1" risers, without any backwards relocation.

I felt the same way, so as part of the purchase deal on my Rockster,I had my local dealer swap the bars from a regular R1150 Roadster. Has worked out fine with me, no back or anywhere else problems, and I a young 58. Also bought a Sargent seat on one of the bike websites, which is better looking and more comfortable.

I have listed the handlebar risers here for you that I purchased for my Rockster. They worked out great! Especially on those 200-300 mile adventure days


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... _717wt_732

For reference - Rockster and Roadster handlebar shapes. The biggest difference between the two handlebar bends is not shown: the Rockster bar has far less rise.



As noted above, I prefer the Rockster bar - albeit with 1" riser" - for most all riding conditions without a windshield.

rellets8 wrote:I have listed the handlebar risers here for you that I purchased for my Rockster. They worked out great! Especially on those 200-300 mile adventure days


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... _717wt_732

Those look like the ones I have.

The other difference, as I remember, was that the Rockster bars were a bit wider.

I am also in dire need of either risers or R1150R Roadster bars. The Roadster bars are much more expensive, but I would like to have bars that aren't as wide as the Rocksters. Right now I can't justify spending $200+ on bars, so I will try the $50 bar risers on Ebay and see how much that helps my back/wrist pain.

riceburner wrote:

rellets8 wrote:I have listed the handlebar risers here for you that I purchased for my Rockster. They worked out great! Especially on those 200-300 mile adventure days


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... _717wt_732

Those look like the ones I have.

I was just curious if all of your wires/cables were long enough for these risers?

Jpainter187 wrote:

riceburner wrote:

rellets8 wrote:I have listed the handlebar risers here for you that I purchased for my Rockster. They worked out great! Especially on those 200-300 mile adventure days


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... _717wt_732

Those look like the ones I have.

I was just curious if all of your wires/cables were long enough for these risers?

yup - no problem. ALthough IIRC I already had longer brake lines fitted.

Hmmm... Yeah, the brake lines seem to have the least amount of slack in them. I hope fitting risers doesn't turn out to be a more expensive mod that it should be.

I had the same problem with my Rock bars, so I installed these:

http://www.moto-techniques.com/061062.htm

Moved bars 1" higher and 1 1/4" closer. Problem solved for a fairly reasonable $50.

Just ordered the same risers off ebay!

I used Pro Taper 7/8" to one inch 1/8 adapters. About $40. Then I fitted Pro Taper Fatties. ($75) I used Pastrana ATV Race bend. (It's the highest most swept back Pro Taper alloy I could find). You have to drill holes in the new bars for heated grip wires and I used the last inch or so off my OEM bars for bar end weight attachment and heated grip wire access.
I also re-routed my wires and cables and brake line behind the fork leg. You just take the bolt off the top of the leg, drop it a tad and pull all the bunch on through.

Its hard to believe that Roadster bars are expensive, they are a straight swap, and lots should be available thru secondary sources, such as Beemerboneyard, Ebay, etc. In my case they were part of the original negotiation for the bike, thru my local dealer, and he was more than willing to do the swap in order to sell a bike.

I also found the standard bars put me in an odd position - sort of always slightly off-balance. I think the pitch forward and the width of the bars also made it much harder to manoeuvre the bike at slow speed, full-lock turns as my balance was off-centre.

I also modified with bar raisers (up and back about 1 & qtr inch or so, and that was better. After a while though I still hankered after a position that i felt really comforttable with and let me chuck the bike about as I wanted.
I saw a set of GS bars on Ebay in the winter, brand new. Bid and won them for a very reasonable £45 (70-odd $ I think?) - the retail was over £160 which is just daft!

I had to move the clutch line so it runs above the tank mounting instead of below it, and I also rotated the brake line on the non-abs line connector by the headstock (the slight bit that I could to get the lines to fit). In fact - they are still both a fraction short and really could do with being slightly longer, but esp. as the stock lines are braided steel I've had no problems in the last 10,000m fitted.

The GS bars are much higher than stock, but keep the width of stock that I like. The best bit is that being more upright i'm more 'centred' and balanced. Feet-up full lock U turns cramked over at walking pace without feeling stretched to the outer handgrip and in control. Slightly more 'loose' feel to the steering - a product of the additional leverage I think - but I like it that way.

An unexpected side-effect is that the standard 'higher' seat is more comfortable. I think this is because my weight is distributed better over my backside.

Overall, I feel I have much better control, and am more comfortable all round. I am more confident with the handling, esp for low-speed manouevres, but also as I am closer to the bars with more arm-bend, so counter-steering and weight shift are easier and more natural. People always bash on about how good the GS feels and handles, while you don't hear the same said as much about the Rockster and R (at least in the comics). I reckon a large slice of that GS feel is simply down to the 'bars and how they position you better to ride the bike.

For me - the bars make the bike better all around, more comfy to tour on, better to chuck around in the twisties and when going for it. There's a German somewhere out there with a Bayliss Rep 1098 on sticky road-race rubber who can testify that it handles well enough so that he couldn't get the Rockster off his numberplate all the way to the summit of the Stelvio Pass (not a 1098's natural habitat granted, and I'd have got buried somewhere open and faster - but it still surprised the hell out of him).

The downside? Well (not that I'm worried) is that esp. with a screen as well, my bike has ended up looking a bit like the lovechild of a Rockster and a GS1150, which I'm sure a lot of people wouldn't like, and perhaps it is moving away from the Rockster 'streetfighter' (ish) look/image somewhat. I just really took to the bike and wanted to keep it, but make it work better for me. But it won't be for everyone.

High/ugly bars they may be - but for me they help realise the bike's potential.

OK guys - we need pics of the GS and Pro Taper bars on your Rocksters! Your info and descriptions are great, but a picture is worth...