Noise diagnosis, please

[Keppelj]

Actually this is a a new thread about something which came up in my last question regarding the starter motor. Warmed up, I notice a loudish clacka clacka clacka at idle coming from both heads. Sitting at a stop light its audible with helmet and plug, almost percussive sounding. Is the the infamous timing chain noise? It might be slightly louder on the left and it goes away at 1500 to 2000 rpm. And the left side tensioner is the one worn and needs replacing? Sorry to be such a dope about this but I've had a couple 1100 and a 1150 oil head and that noise is not familiar!

[Keppelj]

The cam tensioner thread in "mechanical" answers my questions, I think. Seems like that's the noise. I just need to see how long I can tolerate it before tackling the fix. Not harmful, but annoying for sure.

[Devo3136]

It is anoying and it is harmful, it can cause premature tensioner failure and then you will have to split the cases to fix it. It is a fairly inexpensive and easy fix, you will be glad you did it. I was.

[Keppelj]

Harmful, really? I do intend to do the fix but figured on riding it in the meantime. The local BMW dealer service guys and testimony here seem to agree that there's no urgency. Bike has only 16k miles on it. But it is a racket when idling warmed up!

[boxermania]

There is no impending catastrophic failure, the early design didn't keep enough tension on the chain until the engine armed up and the oil thinned out. It is more noticeable on the left side because the tensioner is on the top of the chain.

The noise will eventually annoy you into the swap, the difference is quite noticeable

[Keppelj]

Thanks, Boxer. I've ordered the upgrade tensioner parts and plan to proceed. It looks like I may be able to do the replacement with a 17mm hex socket and wobble extension just the right length coming in from behind the telelever. First thought, anyway. A 3.5" extension, or slight longer, looks like it may work.

[boxermania]

Easily accomplished with the right tools.

BTW there is a Boxer, that is the funny looking guy with the spiked headgear, I'm boxermania. Boxer, albeit a decent and talented human being and a very good friend is ugly and mean, more so now that he is clean shaven, gosh, he is so ugly they should arrest him on the spot. Please don't confuse us.....

[Boxer]

he is so ugly they should arrest him on the spot

Hey! I resemble that remark.

And KeppelJ...Don't let them confuse you. I was constantly worried about that "noise" you described. For 80,000 miles I worried. I even changed out the tensioner at some point and it subsided somewhat, but it never went away. I have taken time at the dealer, and at various rallies around these United of States to listen to other oilheads! I NEVER heard one as loud as mine. They all were in tiptop shape and virtually noise-free...except mine! You may ask, "Does spikehead have a point here?" Well, my point is this: You will ALWAYS notice any tiny little noise in your own bike 10 times more than others. Plus you are sitting right there between to heads sticking out in the breeze for all to hear.

Don't sweat it! Ride it baby!

[jm1515]

Thanks, Boxer. I've ordered the upgrade tensioner parts and plan to proceed. It looks like I may be able to do the replacement with a 17mm hex socket and wobble extension just the right length coming in from behind the telelever. First thought, anyway. A 3.5" extension, or slight longer, looks like it may work.

I had to use 2 U-Joints and a shorty extension. It made things very easy to do just as you are thinking...
Remove the left oil cooler cover
Attach the 2 UJs to the extension
Work the 17mm socket onto the old CCT
Work the extension/UJs behind the Telelever, then onto the socket
Attach your ratchet drive to the extension and remove the OE CCT body. The spring/plunger may or may not come out with the body. This is where a flat bottomed magnet will come in handy to fish them out.
Install the upgrade. You'll now need a 15mm socket.
Happy wrenching........

[Keppelj]

" You will ALWAYS notice any tiny little noise in your own bike 10 times more than others. Plus you are sitting right there between to heads sticking out in the breeze for all to hear."

Don't sweat it! Ride it baby![/quote]

Boxer, thanks for your attempt to calm my fears, and jm1515, thanks for the mechanical tips. I'll make the best of both of them. My background in oilheads is that I've had three (one an early 1150) and and my hearing has likely gotten worse, not better. None of them made this god awful racket. At hot idle it sounds like Sid Vicious. How about a little Regina Spector in there? The parts are on order and I'll do the fix. Boxer, you must be highly sensitized if the fix only slightly allayed your concerns. I feel for you. The right side tensioner?

[frennyscott]

Carry on with this Keppelj which you have told because at present noise pollution is the most in world and we will have to take steps for preventing it and you will have to do this so proud on you dear.

[MIXR]

Right side tensioner sits underneath and is bathed in oil, so no problem. Left side (which is on top) has a combination of weak spring and poor parts fit which allows the oil to escape. IT WILL NOT DESTROY ANYTHING!

It's not even a tensioner, just an 'anti-slap' device. Details below.

This is the comparison of the two versions. There were some other intermediate ones that didn't work real well either.


The bits you need. The wire can be used to fish the old one out if it doesn't come easily.


And this how you get to it. Can be difficult to tension, but I did mine 80,000 kms back and it hasn't leaked!


Took about 30 minutes and a large scotch.

Oh - The new one has an internal fitted spring, so it's called a 'two-piece', but isn't really just two pieces. Some people think they got rid of the spring.

[Keppelj]

A large scotch? Is that a penetrating fluid? With that advice I would be the tight nut! Good pictures. That's what I had in mind as an approach. The universal I have wont fit in that tight space, but I could find one that does. I had thought to cut down and weld a wobbly extension to the right length. I'm swamped at work at the moment and it will have to wait for the weekend at least. Should have the replacement by then. Thanks for your good photos. The shadows are cool.

[MIXR]

No worries.

The bit of wire is to fish out the old spring if it stays behind. The magnet is to fish out the base piece if it stays behind. You can't drop anything in the hole as it sits right on the chain. The trick with removing the old one is to get it loose, and slowly and carefully withdraw it on a tilt angle. That should keep the whole assembly intact. Otherwise, you go fishing.

I didn't torque mine. No room and wrong angle. If you use a new crush washer, it won't be a problem. The 15mm head on the new one is easier to do up than the 17mm head on the old one is to undo. Angle has to be 'just right'. My tools were 3/8 drive. Seemed to be better than my 1/4 drive setup, maybe because you can get a better grip.

My noise symptoms were massive rattle on decelleration (backing off down hills etc), massive rattle on pulling up at lights on hot days, and some rattle at feathered throttles while cruising at low speeds. The traffic light pull-ups were the worst. Made it sound like a Ducati!

Best fix I could have ever done.

[Keppelj]

Piece 'O cake, Mixr. Wasn't even very tight. The spring came out with the threaded bit, but I had to "fish" for the bucket with a magnet. There is a bit of sand on the machined shelf around the hole that I'll have to removed carefully. Maybe a long Q-tip with some grease on it. Now the wait for UPS to deliver the upgrade. Thanks again for your encouragement.

[Keppelj]

Ok, now I can crow with the rest of you who replaced the left side tensioner! It was a little annoying to tighten properly because I had a wobbly and a universal together and that's a squirmy combo in that tiny space behind the telelever, but, boy, is it quiet now running and at idle. I didn't get it warmed up properly in a 10 minute evening ride but at that temps the engine sounds just it oughta. Thanks your help, all.

[wickwatch]

Just did the upgrade... 30min total cost $98.00 for parts from BMW very simple. Fired it up it is very quite now thanks for the wrenching tips.... beats taking off the throtle body. No more clack, clack at the stop lights