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My headlight bulb burned out. To replace it I used a Sylvania 9003/HB2/HB 4. turn on igniation switch and had both high & low beam. Took the bike for a short ride andthe enginge keep stalling. Made it back home and now I cannot get the engine to start. Now, When I turn on the ignition I don't hear the electrical fuel injectors make the whirrling sound. I check the electric fuel injector plug to make sure I have a good connection. Do I need a OEM headlight bulb from the dealer or is there some else that might be causing this ?

I would begin by looking at your fuses.

MoonBeemer wrote:I would begin by looking at your fuses.

And ending up looking at the Hall Sensor I hope not.

Keep us posted about the FIX.
Good Luck.

Now, When I turn on the ignition I don't hear the electrical fuel injectors make the whirrling sound

The noise you hear is either the fuel pump (inside gas tank) or the - louder - Integrated ABS servo pump running, if your bike is so equipped.

Changing the headlight bulb won't impact the operation of either system, nor have any effect on motor operation, even if you somehow blew the corresponding headlight fuse.

Something else (unrelated to headlight) is going on.

Jezzz David....On the fuel filter post....I was only kidding about the light bulb.
Please keep us posted when you check you tire pressure !!!

I have changed out the headlight it works perfectly, turn signals, brake lights, turn signals all work. The only thing not working is the electronics for the fuel pump. I check the fuses they are all good. When I turn on the iginition NO sound of the injectors working...check the fuse for that ..good. Anything else electrical that I can check?

I'd try changing the bulb back to the original. Maybe the power draw is too much or something... In any case, restoring things to the way they were when the bike last worked is a good start.

I did put the old bulb back in even though it only work on low beam. Same problem. no electronics to the fuel injection system. Replaced with new OEM bulb and still no fuel injection electronics.. UGGGGGGGGGGGGG

That's a real stumper...you changed your light bulb and your engine now cuts out and dies...
So let's see if I got this right...
it is cranking over and not firing, so it's not your battery,
it ran for a while then died, so it's not your kill switch or sidestand switch,
and all your fuses check out, but you don't hear the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition.
The only thing I can guess is maybe the fuel pump relay isn't supplying current.
It is located next to the headlight relay in the front of the fuse box, and that is about as close as the wiring for the headlight and fuel pump get on the bike, but I can't imagine why one would affect the other unless the headlight wiring burned up the fuel pump wiring under the relays. If so, I'll bet you could smell it. Otherwise, you could swap those four black relays around (since they're all the same) and see what does or doesn't work, to find out if one is bad.

Hope you find the problem and can fix it.
I'd be interested to know what you find out.

Good luck!

Good suggestion to swap in a different relay.

Other than that, and just grabbing at straws, have you checked
the plug connection under the right rear of the tank that feeds
the fuel pump to make sure it hasn't somehow or other come
loose?

How about the side stand safety switch? Or even easier, is the side stand up?
Just throwing stuff out there and hoping it sticks.

Sunbeemer
I think you might be on to something with the relays. I did smell a little odor when I was riding. I not familiar with the relays, fuel or headlight. Do they just unplug, like the fuses? If you have any pics pointing them out that would be excellent? I will check my clymer for any instructions on removing the relays for the fuel pump and headlight.. thanks again

This might help...

The pics does help. I pull the #4 relay as it relates to the fuel pump. I was going to swap it with # 3 as this was the horn but the prongs on the two relays don't line up correctly. So I am going to call my dealer to see what the cost is for the #4 relay. Though about pulling the motronics but though would cause more confusion.

Update:

Picked up the fuel pump relay and installed and got the whirling noise of the fuel pump. Got the engine to start. Turned the handlebars and the engine was killed. Move the handlebars to a straight position and got it to start. Turned the handlebars and engine killed. Anybody have any thoughts as to what is going on here? Also check the fuel injection injection plug on the right side by the fuel lines...got a good connecion there ?

Ah! The dreaded headstock too-tight zip-tie problem! There are zip-ties in the headstock area that cut into the electrical harness. Look for breaks in the covering and insulation under the zipties, and you'll probably find wires broken or shorted. Cut the zip-ties and repair these wires. CycleRob has posted a picture of the offending ties, but I can't find it right now.

You've found your problem. I cut the zip ties as soon as I heard it was an issue.

A pic would be great . I went and look at the wiring harness under the instruments and see a number of zip locks that wrap around. I can take a pic and upload with your ok ? To repair any broken wires..do I need to just splice together with black electric tape and then re- zip lock them or is there another way?

Iowabeakster posted a good pic in: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21137&start=0

You'll want to cut those ties that are marked in red on the pic, then carefully slit the black rubber shield around the wires under them and you might find a damaged wire. It's likely to be the kill switch wire under the right-hand, upper cable tie, (get wire color from wiring diagram in back of Clymer's). If there's no obvious damage try gently stretching each wire where it passed under the zip ties to see if the wire parted inside the insulation.

When you find the wire, cut it, strip it, and either solder it back together and electrical tape it, or crimp an insulated butt-splice onto both stripped ends to reconnect it. Stuff all the wires back in the black rubber shield and wrap it in tape to weatherproof. Then zip-tie that bundle loosely and you've made good bike better.

Good call not pulling the Motronic relay.

GREAT PICs--Saved the picture in my ever growing file on my bike. One final question: In looking at the wiring diagram in Clymer, the "Right Multifunction" switch" appears to be the the kill switch. The green wire goes to fuse #4 (fuel pump) and into the multifunction switch. Assuming this is correct I should focus on the green wire.

Got a couple other projects to do around house but plan to work on the zip tie this weekend. I will get back to everyone on the out come. Thanks to all for the guidance.