Rider Rick Checking In...New Member and BMW Owner

[Rider Rick]

Greetings, today I purchased a nice 2004 R1150R from out-of-town, will go get it next weekend. First BMW, have friends who have been loyalists for many years, so I will just say I will be trying to soak up all the value on this forum. I didn't see a newbie thread, so just throwing my hat in the ring. I expect to be searching a lot to see how I can catch up on best practices for the bike. Appreciate the forum work, and hope to contribute.

Rick

[f4tweet]

Location?

[Rider Rick]

Sorry, thought I put that in when I joined, must have not submitted correctly. Anyway, Oklahoma City area .

[Rider Rick]

Guys I have a few question that are not showing up easily in Search. Is there a spot for newbie questions I can peruse? Sample question...my new bike is a 2004 r1150r, but only has 9700 miles on it, so it has the years. It looks primo and the dealer says it is perfect in every way. I quizzed him on clutch slave matters, recall fixes for quick disconnect (yes), and he says he did the non-abs brake servicing two weeks ago and it is in need of nothing until the first valve check...which should roll over on my Alaska trip in June. Here is the question...are there things that should be proactively replaced due to age, such as cables, etc? The bike did not get ridden much, obviously, and I know things need to get exercised or they get stiff, brittle, etc. Found the Hints and tips, section looking that over, too.

By the way, would love to hear from any peoplle who've done the Alaska and Haul Road trips on one of these...need to prepare it for that in a few months. This will be my primary purpose in life for now .

[TicTac50]

Here is the question...are there things that should be proactively replaced due to age, such as cables, etc? The bike did not get ridden much, obviously, and I know things need to get exercised or they get stiff, brittle, etc. Found the Hints and tips, section looking that over, too.

By the way, would love to hear from any peoplle who've done the Alaska and Haul Road trips on one of these...need to prepare it for that in a few months. This will be my primary purpose in life for now .

2004 BMW R1150 with ONLY 9700 miles, the most important part that needed proactive replacement was the RIDER.
Congratulations on your almost new bike and welcome aboard!
You will find all the questions by using "SEARCH" button. Also you can always ask.
I would buy QD from http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html
Get an extra head light bulb http://www.amazon.com/Hella-HLA-H831401 ... 113&sr=8-2
Also you need a tire plugger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N ... &pf_rd_i=B
Air compressor is a MUST http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Power ... 386&sr=1-2
All you need now is the TIME to ride that bike as much as you can and do not baby it. This bike likes a good kick.
Good Luck.

[Rider Rick]

Thanks, it's burning a hole in my britches already, waiting for next week.

Just had a bag deal fall through, guy was going to sell me a set of the big bags...the bike currently has the standard, smaller lids on it. Can the bigger lids be had besides from the dealer? Dealer is offering to get me the big lids at his price and will install them, something about drilling out new places where the smaller ones fit.

[Dr. Strangelove]

Welcome, Rider Rick,
There is no "newbie" area. This is it. Often newer members show up and just jump into the discussions. There are many questions that tend to repeat, but we've all been there and one thing about this board compared to some of the others is the courtesy of the members. It is rare to have your mother's heritage questioned. It is rare to be offered creative suggestions in self-acrobatics. Not impossible, but rare.
So, don't be afraid to ask. Of course search first, but then ask.

And you're a LIFER ! Good man!

Be safe and welcome again

John

[Rider Rick]

Thanks! Don't talk about my mom, but my sister and I don't get along, so you can have at her ROFL.

I told the dealer to set me up with the bigger lids, so I would have to swap them out if I don't want the huge things on around town. Has to be cheaper than new bags all around. Wonder if the existing frames will take any other kinds of luggage than bmw?

[Dr. Strangelove]

We've all heard about your sister...
just sayin'

re the cases and just my opinion. There are three sizes of lids: city, very narrow profile, the wide ones (their real name escapes now) and they are really pretty wide and the "system" cases lids. These are the ones most people use, though occ someone mentions the city lids.

I think the sweet spot is the system case size, the middle one. But I don't use them for commuting or city. They would be too much. I use a tail top case from hepco-becker and that works for me with a bungeed LLBean backpack for overnight stuff if needed. I also use a tank bag and that is plenty for knocking around. Touring is a different story.

This is a personal area and each rider, like water, will seek his or her own level. Most people try out different arrangements and find something eventually that works. And the bike is best the more naked it is.

Don't know if the rack accepts other bags, but don't think so????

[Rider Rick]

Thanks, I only know of the town bags, and my friend had the big ones he called touring bags. I typically only carry my laptop backpack and don't think it would fit in either, so would be strapped to the back somehow. I will be gearing up for an 8.5k round trip from here to AK and back via West coast and up into Nevada to see Area 51 and some of my old girlfriends, lol...so need to pack a few things. I may, in the interests of money savings, make a plate on back that will bolt to the smaller rack and put on a large toolbox of some sort...won't be too classy but that Ferry ticket from WHittier to Washington nearly made me wet my pants, so need to cut back on farkles, lol...and I don't even have the bike in the garage yet . I figure the dealer's cost for the large lids and mounting them is fair for now. Prefer top-loading but not picky yet.

The link below will show you the bags.

http://rushingaround.net/bike/bike%20pics.html

[Rider Rick]

One more question...for now, lol. The throttle body sync process I've read about...should I do it or have it done on the bike with the fewer miles, or can age lead to the out of sync issue? I'm thinking yes, will never hurt. The Carbtune device seems relatively inexpensive as far as tuning devices go. I could try to talk the dealer into throwing that service in I guess...

[Sunbeemer]

Welcome Rider Rick and hope you enjoy your new ride.

I only sync the throttle bodies after a valve adjustment to make sure the air provided to both cylinders is equal and balanced. This is recommended at 6000 mile intervals in the manual and is easy to do.

Something you should probably do is remove the too-tight cable ties around the wire harness under the headpost on either side of the front of the tank. You can replace them with looser ones or leave them off. After a while they can chafe through the wiring harness or strain the wires internally to the breaking point. Search "cable ties" for posts about this issue.

[Rider Rick]

Thanks, already at the top of my list once I get my hands on it Saturday .

I keep having questions...I am going to trailer it back, and for my other bikes I would just apply some compression to the suspension when strapping down. It is easy to imagine the telelever front suspension is different with regard to being strapped. Any pointers I need to know?

[Sunbeemer]

Here's some info about trailering BMW's... http://www.brownmotorworks.net/Service_ ... edown2.pdf
Note that they do not want straps going to the handlebars.

I haven't trailered mine, but if necessary I think up front I'd put a soft hitch around either side of the telelever arm instead of the forks since the beak might be damaged by the downforce (that's different from the info above since they were trailering a CL). At the rear I would take a turn around the rear tire with the bike in first gear to keep it from hopping sideways. Of course the front tire should be firmly stuffed up against a stop.

[macx]

I've also got an 04, purchased mine in 08, have been learning ever since - also my first BMW.

Heartily agree on the cable tie thing.

Generally, it seems to be a concensus that DIY tuneups are more precise than dealer tuneups.
Reasons being that (1) the factory has an acceptable range that the individual owner usually
improves upon because he/she isn't OK with "acceptable" but usually does a more precise job,
one big item of which is setting the valves. These motors are very responsive to a good valve
adjustment set, and suffer from "good enuf". Pretty much same goes with the TB balancing.

There are manometers, home made and otherwise, and the more expensive electronic devices
such as the Twin Max. All of them work. I like and use the Twin Max because it can be used
while test riding the bike to check balancing at various road rpms and degrees of throttle.
I just tape it to the top of the gas tank.

Be sure the clutch hydraulic system has also been serviced - fluid replaced - recently. That needs
to be done every year. On a long trip might not be a bad idea to pack a spare slave cyl - get oem
units cheaper at http://www.beemerboneyard.com. Not that you can change it yourself unless you also
pack the right tools, (it CAN be done without removing so much stuff as the manuals show, mostly just
the airbox and the rear wheel - but just having it would be a great start.

Also make sure you have a recent trans & final drive fluid change. Synthetics are generally better
because they withstand heat better. I personally use 75-140 in the trans because of the proximity
to the high temp cat, and 75-90 in the FD. I've read glowing reports of a moly additive for the
trans as it supposedly makes it shift smoother. I'm going to try that this summer.
http://guarddogmolylubricants.com/gd401.shtml or just going to this oil
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-42804/

I have read a few posts on the marginal capacity of the stock headlight wiring and switch, and that
it can be improved using a relay system that uses the switch just to operate the relays. I do quite
a bit of night riding to/from work, so tried it. Does seem to make more light even with the stock bulb,
but I replaced with a Xenon bulb which is a big improvement even at stock / legal wattage.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... _kits.html Fairly easy to install.
http://www.ridesafer.com/Hella_Premium_ ... lb0011.htm
A very high quality bulb, available at Amazon, Crutchfield, etc at reasonable prices.
Mine on low beam throws sort of a split pattern with a lower pattern toward oncoming traffic and
a higher pattern toward the road ahead in your lane and off toward the shoulder. On high beam it
lights up a huge area far ahead and wide off to both sides. There are higher
wattage bulbs available in this style/brand, but reportedly some states get irritable about them.

Also good to do a 1 time check on your TPS setting - info in the Tech Tips articles. Easily done,
you need a digital multi meter. Do it after the TB balancing.

I found a pretty good oem type service manual on CD on ebay quite reasonably. Includes both all
servicing and most mechanical operations, even to rebuilding engine / trans / final drives. Has proven
invaluable to me as I do all my own work.

Another help to sometimes see how things go together is the BMW parts fiche on A&S cycles or
MAX BMW websites. Also can see the suggested retail prices for parts.

A GOOD QUALITY battery tender made to work with gel batteries will extend the life of the gel battery. When it does come time for replacement, do a search on this forum for the preferred aftermarket brand,
I forget at the moment. Supposedly a stronger battery than oem.

You might want to slip some Moly lube (preferred brand for clutch splines is Honda Moly 60, about
$10 for a small tube at the Honda dealer) in the shift linkage connections - pull the little wire clip
that holds them together and dab some of that lube inside the socket and reassemble. Also a little
dab of oil on any pivot point i.e. your clutch & brake lever pivots, rear brake pedal pivot, side stand
and center stand pivots, and the shift lever pivot.

If you experience any lean backfiring type symptoms at lower rpms or under heavy throttle, you might
try removing the CAT plug int he fuse box - makes the engine run a little richer. Mine was gone
when I got it and I've never had any backfiring. Talked about in the tech tips, along with a diagram
or picture of where it's at in the fuse box.

On that long trip, might not hurt to pack at least 1 extra stick coil for the upper plugs, the new ones
are supposedly better quality than the older oem ones. They can fail, or even just get weak, and
leave you with that cylinder running on just the bottom plug. Oh, a spare set of plugs would also be a great
item to have along of course.

You might want a set of foam grips Grip Puppies for your handlebars to help control vibration induced
tingling in your hands. The nerves in my hands are in bad shape, so got a pair of those, I use padded
gloves, and even added heavier bar end weights. All helps.

A good sharp tune job with close tolerance valve setting and TB balancing also helps quell vibration,
and fresh plugs really improved mine even tho the ones in the motor looked good.

If you experience "discomfort" in your posterior over long trips straddling that Teutonic Log, take a look
at an aftermarket seat. Some with great reviews are
http://www.day-long.com/newbike_pages/bmw_R1150R.html
http://www.rickmayercycle.com/
http://www.billmayersaddles.com/october25homepage.html
That is without doubt my next upgrade.

If you're fairly tall, or your knees don't tolerate quite as much bend as the stock footpeg location
requires, there are kits to lower the pegs and move them forward. They don't move the pegs a
whole lot but any little bit helps.

If you consider a different windshield, do NOT even consider CalSci - speaking from experience!!!
Do a search on that subject - Cee Bailey is a popular touring windshield, I'm sure others are also good.

Good luck on that great trip! Would love to do that, but retirement is 3+ years away yet, then
have to move to another state and build myself another house. Oh, well. That'll be in Wyoming
so lots of neat scenic drives just in that state.

For that Alaska trip, check out http://www.advrider.com/forums/
Tons of info on probably every "adventure" trip ever made

Welcome to the forum!

[Rider Rick]

Gadzooks, thanks! (note to self: buy lunch for Macx at first opportunity)

This should kep me sufficiently giddy for awhile doing all that .

By the way, the dealer called, he ordered the largest lids he could get for the luggage. I hope I don't look like I have a couch strapped to my bike

For trailering, I do have a soft hitch, never used it, will figure it out. Last trailer had connections built into the trailer walls and I just put control arms in a few places and spun them to snug and locked, pretty great way to carry bike. I may also pull the windshield off and wrap it in a tarp on the way back to save buffeting and dust blast...that I-40 across NM and Texas can be a very gravelly, windy place. Thanks again, much to study!

Good Gosh, you from Cape G? I haven't been over there in a long time, many relatives on the west side in Carthage and Joplin area, but when I was younger I recall my dad sticking our trailer on the old bridge that went across there when a truck came from the other way in a driving storm and they just ground to a halt in the middle! took hours to get them pulled apart and it was like some strange Bladerunner scene, all the rain and lights and wind, lol. I wonder if that bridge is still there...

[macx]

Just hope all that stuff proves of some value!

I know how frustrating it can be to think all is well and then things start to turn up
that you don't have a clue about.

Much better to check things before trouble shows up.

Yeah, I'm in Cape, been here 20 yrs, spent my first 40 based in central MN.

Going to retire in 3 or so, moving to Casper WY. Too hot & humid down here,
and the taxes have gone nuts the last several years. Good friends from back
home in Casper, also 2nd cheapest state to retire, and lots of scenery.

They got rid of the old bridge finally, built a new one just a few years ago.

I converted an old boat trailer for my bike - basically shortened the tongue.

I added some eye bolts in the side frames about even with the loops for
the pass footpegs, and even with the paralever on the front.

I had a near disaster with those darn ratchet straps - bike bounced on these
"lovely" MO roads and one came clean off. Now I use light gauge chain with
the little loops with a spring loaded gate, and turnbuckles on one side - now
nothing can come loose. I use a chunk of old radiator hose where the chain
contacts the bike.

I worked north of KC for 2-1/2 years (I work construction QC on power plant
jobs) and trailered the bike home just after I put a new Cal Sci shield on it
with the spindly oem BMW Tall Touring brackets. What a cluster!! Brackets
did NOT fit the windshield as advertised, had to bend them all up to avoid
stressing the windshield, and then still had to burr out the top 2 holes.

Now the whole expensive mess isn't worth what it would cost to ship it
across the state.

While trailering it home, the darn bracket broke up near the 3 tree. Sure an
expensive ($200!) piece of crap that maybe has $1 worth of material in it
if it's lucky - very flimsy. Had to weld it back up and add some triangulation
braces to keep it from flopping all over the place. Cee Bailey is on my list.

Sounds like a plan to take it off for that trip - have been across there, I know
what U mean.

Going to Vegas to work a 3 year job out in the CA desert just S of Vegas,
should be able to put a lot of miles on the bike out there. 50 miles ea way
to the jobsite. Definitely getting a seat, and probly an electronic cruise
control. Haven't found anything satisfactory for a manual throttle lock.

By the time the bike wears out, or I do, I should have it just the way I like it!

Good luck on the trip!

[Rider Rick]

I'll probably build a trailer for it that has the clamps built in so it sits neutrally on the suspension, borrowing my riding buddy's for this one.

I've heard of several installing some Audiovox cruise, and others actually going down and buying one from napa, no details yet. Have experienced a Kaoko (sp) ona friend's bike, but also his 1200gt has the electronic cruise, sweetness, just not at this level yet . I will search for this, but what are your rpms at 70-75? Pretty sedate with the 6-sp?

[macx]

Just under 3300 to just over 3500, 70 to 75.

I've "gone and done it" however -

Just about all of my riding has been on 55/60 mph 2 lanes, and that's at the bottom of the buzz range in 5th and lugging in 6th, so started some research.

Also 1st gear is so high it seems like starting out in 2nd, don't like that feeling of excessive clutch slippage, esp starting with a passenger or starting uphill. And I'm in fairly hilly territory.

So, first found out about the "short" 1st & 6th in a few trans, such as some of the GSA models. I liked that low 1st gear, but of course then 6th was more like 5th so for the occasional freeway jaunt it would be too high of an rpm.

Found out you have to have the key for the code that's on the outer upper right side of the bellhousing to know for sure what the internal ratios are. I now have that.

Finally found a "short" trans with both 1st & 6th low. It had a leaky input seal and some wear on the input splines, so went thru the exercise of swapping out the intermediate and output shaft assy's into my roadster
trans. Unfortunately BMW never made a stock 6 speed with a "short" 1st and tall 6th gear, that would have made things just too easy!! Have found a guy that does a lot of trans gear swapping, like "short" 1st gears into "tall" trans like the roadsters, he even has different 1st gear ratios available aftermarket that are about 1/2 the cost of BMW parts, so it's not excessively costly. But I usually do all my own work.

To cure the resulting slow 6th, I looked into diff ratio FD's, higher of course becuz with the "short" 1st gear now, low is plenty low.

Only completely bolt in one I could find was just a 2.75, not much diff from the stock 2.82.

With more looking, found that FD's out of K1200's are the same housing, same gearset, same suspension hookups, etc, and one of the 2 standard ratios on those was 2.62. BINGO! As my main priority was a nice 5th gear for the 2 lane roads without losing anything significant in 6th and getting somewhat of a lower
over all 1st in the bargain, that figured out just right. Now 5th covers all the way from 50mph at 2900 rpm thru 65 mph at a hair over 3600. No buzzing in the handlebars, no lugging, and no up and down shifting for hills, etc. And I still have a 7% overall reduction in 1st gear, and 6th gear is only 200 rpm higher for any given road speed.

Not "quite" a straight bolt in, the brake rotor, caliper, ABS wheel, ABS pickup are different, but will work with the R1150 brake & ABS system, and hooks right up (brake hoses, ABS plug). Also had to get a K1200 wheel becuz the ABS ring on the 1200 FD mounts on the hub instead of the wheel, and the ABS ring mount bosses on the 1150 wheel get in the way of the ABS ring on the 1200 hub. BUT the 1200 rear wheel is identical in size and appearance to the 1150 wheel, just doesn't have those ABS ring bosses in the way.

Then, after all that, wouldn't you know I get a job South of Vegas where I'll be riding 20+ miles ea way to work on the darn freeway! But there'll also be 15+ miles of 2 lane, so it'll still work out. And when I retire and move to WY, there's tons of great scenic 2 lane's to explore. Be heading to Vegas by about the end of March. 3+ year job - hopefully my LAST!!

Yeah, lots of work for some small "adjustments" to rpms vs road speed, but my old nerves in my hands just don't tolerate vibes, and this keeps my 5th gear under the vibe threshold up to just about 65 mph.

Besides, "it ain't right till it's right" - you know how that is!? :-)

I could have gotten a little lower 1st just by going to the next step lower FD that will bolt in, but then my 5th still wouldn't have been in that sweet spot, and that was my top priority.

Taking things to this degree of detail is how I've learned so much about my bike.

I even did my own trans gear swap, THAT was an adventure! But it worked out fine. I'm an old hot rodder
who's built perf automatics, a number of engines, set up diff's, all that stuff, so it wasn't like I was starting out having to learn which end of a wrench to pick up.

So - away we go!

[Rider Rick]

Well, I had a short-term change of direction and almost bought an 08 r1200r, but the money didn't work out, so still planning to pick up my red bike Saturday morning, and begin my trek to get it ready for the June AK trip. Guess we can shut this thread down, thanks for all the insight and I will be working the suggestions in this thread eagerly.