BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I owned a street bob in addition to a road king and decided I wanted to replace the street bob with something lighter, not Harley etc. Settled on the 2011 r1200r and so far it is exactly what I wanted. Couple of impressions and questions.

The throttle seems twitchy at low speed, anyone else notice this, or is it just part of how the bike functions. I've read about a booster plug. Any good? Hard to install? Also, where do you put your legs to stretch them? I read some engine bars allow you to use them to stretch your legs, but it seems many have not been altered to fit the 2011's.

Finally, do you need covers as well as the bars if you buy the right ones?

Great bike, and a great change for me so far.

street bob 59 wrote:The throttle seems twitchy at low speed, anyone else notice this, or is it just part of how the bike functions. I've read about a booster plug. Any good? Hard to install? ...

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The Boosterplug works as advertised. It softens low-throttle response by enriching the mixture when the throttle is turned up or down quickly. Especially valuable at low speed and when backing off the throttle quickly at any speed. Reduces the abrupt engine braking common to these modern lean-fueled motors.

If you're used to carb'd bikes, it takes a bit of time to get used to FI throttles. Inherently more jerky at low speeds, and you'll get used to it in no time.

Installation of Boosterplug is easy. You have to remove the left side panels to get at the tank bolt. Take that bolt out and lift the tank (use a piece of wood to prop it up). Then you unplug the stock temperature sensor lead from the top of the airbox and plug in the Boosterplug lead. Route the Bplug temperature gauge up to the front of the bike (just below the top fork clamp is good) and zip-tie it to a frame piece or the charcoal canister mount. You're done. The engine computer takes it from there. Don't forget to put the tank bolt back in.

First welcome
Second we need pictures
In terms of legs, for time being i just rest the legs on the jugs on the highway

ContraMoto wrote:The Boosterplug works as advertised. It softens low-throttle response by enriching the mixture when the throttle is turned up or down quickly.

The BoosterPlug may soften throttle inputs at low speeds - I don't know, I've not used one - but the change doesn't occur when the throttle is opened or closed quickly. The BP changes the FI input that reads ambient temperature, making the FI think it's colder outside than it actually is. This richens the mixture a bit at all rpms and all temperatures.

If you're used to carb'd bikes, it takes a bit of time to get used to FI throttles. Inherently more jerky at low speeds, and you'll get used to it in no time.

I agree. And I'd add that the inherent slop in the BMW drivetrain exascerbates the problem. As ContraMoto says: the key is smoothness.

dbrick wrote:...This richens the mixture a bit at all rpms and all temperatures.

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That's not true. At steady-state throttle, the O2 sensor governs mixture and the Boosterplug has no effect on the motor -- it "tries" to enrich, but the computer is really only interested in what the O2 sensor has to say. When you move off steady-state, the O2 sensor falls behind the changing conditions, so the computer instead looks at a pre-set map, which is governed largely by the temp sensor. It does this because the O2 sensor doesn't immediately read new ignition conditions. When the O2 data catches up to the new throttle position, the computer then looks back to actual ignition conditions.

That's why the device doesn't affect fuel economy materially. During most operation, the bike is in steady-state (or nearly so) operation and the mixture is not enriched at all. The Boosterplug tricks the computer into looking at a richer fueling map only during the brief moments when the throttle is changed and the O2 sensor is "out of the loop."

ContraMoto is correct. I re-read the BoosterPlug how-it-works page more carefully, and the O2 sensor does, in steady-state operation, return the FI to its pre-programmed stochiometric ideal.

As far as the twichy throttle - give it a week. 50 miles isn't enough to get used to it. I feel no particular need for the "Booster Plug", but apparently some people do.. Since you're coming off HD's - some of which have "dead" throttles (no return spring) - one change you might make is the O-ring cruise control. It can be done two ways:

1. With an O ring (about 3/4" ID, 1/8" cross-section) between the bar end weight and the throttle grip..
or
2. With a larger O ring (most people use one from Catapillar) that can be rolled off the bar-end into the gap between the grip and bar-end. This one is about 1"+ and probably 3/16 cross-section. John M knows the exactly PN (John?) It can be rolled back on the bar-end when not needed.

Using #1 - I have basically a dead throttle. It stays where I put it. I did this to dampen my throttle response a bit, and also to allow me to shake out my right hand (carpal tunnel problems) while riding. It works quite well, and the O ring (about $0.30) seems to last about 35,000 miles. I use a bit of silicone grease on it to lubricate it a bit and protect the rubber from the elements and ozone attack.

HTH,

Here's a link to the thread regarding the rubber o-ring as a throttle lock.

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f ... ng#p181142

My cylinder head covers took a huge scrap on my bike but I don't have bars. The covers area all I need. The cylinder head covers seem to be more common than roll bars.

I don't mind the engine braking and have gotten used to the throttle. I doubt I will make the investment in a booster plug.

Thanks for the information. Should I replace the air filter to open it up some, and will I need a retune with the boosterplug? Thanks again, and I'll post a picture soon.

street bob 59 wrote:Thanks for the information. Should I replace the air filter to open it up some, and will I need a retune with the boosterplug? Thanks again, and I'll post a picture soon.

People that know a lot more than I do about air intakes have given an unequivocal "don't bother" with trying to improve air flow. The snorkel, air box ("intake muffler") and filter provide all the air the motor can possibly use. Of the many handicaps modern motors suffer in order to comply with emmissions rules, restricted air intake is not one of them. Designers are free to provide the motor all the air it can swallow...and they do.

The Boosterplug is plug-n-play. Install it and forget about it. The CPU running the fueling system handles everything needed. Again, all the Boosterplug does is trick the CPU into looking at a richer point on the pre-programmed fueling map that the CPU already has, and it only does this trick when opening or closing the throttle. If BMW was free to design the FI system to please customers, rather than please the EU and EPA, the CPU would already do this in stock form. All we're doing with a Boosterplug is giving back to the motor an operating advantage that the regulators took away.

If motorcycles ever become subject to ongoing smog tests, like cars, we would need to pull the Boosterplug prior to taking it in for a smog check.

I don't know of a single brand of engine protector bars that will fit the 2011 model, just as there are no aftermarket windshields that will either. I've spoken to reps with a few of the companies (Wunderlich, Ztechnik, Hepcko-Becker, etc.), they are in the works but nobody has them available yet.

Welcome.. First off don't bother messing with the engine, it's not a Harley there is basically no more power to get out of the engine, and certainly not with an air filter.. if there was BMW would do it. Adding a pipe won't add an real power either just more sound and just changes the torque curve.. As for sensitive throttle.. 50 miles is so far from being broken as to be irrelevant. Also very much un-like a Harley the bike prefers to run above above 3K rpm.. so keep the revs up the bike will be smoother and happier.