BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

OK...I have done searches on this as I know it has been discussed before. This will be my first attempt to change out the fuel filter as my 48K is coming up. My question has to do with the replacement clamps. I have seen to get 5/16" F.I., a post form our resident DR. says to use 2-13mm and 2-16mm. I thought you would only need 2 clamps to replace this filter. A post from cyclerob says there may be reusable squeeze type clamps on the hoses. Anyone know what clamps are required? Thanks for any help with this dreaded procedure!

It's been a long time since I did mine but I think 5/16" is what I used. Bought them at Autozone. You have to cut old ones off. They're not re-useable.

Wayne

A little off topic, but a reminder to start planning on changing out your fuel filter more often than the recommended schedule. Ethanol based gas absorbs water from the air and should not be stored for long periods of time. It really plays havoc with fuel filters. Just last year the EPA approved the use of E15 which is gas with a formulation of 15% alcohol. Watch for it as you fill up around the country. It burns hotter and in engines not designed to dissipate that extra heat, damage will occur. Our oil cooled engines in the R bikes are on that list. You can add a quality gasoline stabilizer to help but try to avoid E15.

Buckster wrote:OK...I have done searches on this as I know it has been discussed before. This will be my first attempt to change out the fuel filter as my 48K is coming up. My question has to do with the replacement clamps. I have seen to get 5/16" F.I., a post form our resident DR. says to use 2-13mm and 2-16mm. I thought you would only need 2 clamps to replace this filter. A post from cyclerob says there may be reusable squeeze type clamps on the hoses. Anyone know what clamps are required? Thanks for any help with this dreaded procedure!

If that means me this is what I said

there is a code for them that I believe refers to mm size, could be 13??, but on the back of the pack( they come in 4s) there is a description. You want the ones for 5/16" ID
3/8" is too big--the next size up.

5/16 is the one you want

IIRC all the clamps in the fuel system are that size, meaning the 5/16" size, not 1/4, not 3/8. The ones in the tank are 5/16"--ie the ones around the filter; and the ones on the quik connects are also.
16 will be too big for any application in the fuel system, iirc, they leaked. The ones I have from Pep Boys are 52F15V made by IDEAL. On the outside it says 13mm-15mm. And they were cheap.
There were only two clamps holding the filter.

Consider externalizing it also. When I externalized mine I simply replaced the filter with a length of 5/16 brass tubing and clamped it in place.
The squeeze type clamps may be reuseable for Rob, but for me they were not because I had to cut them off with a dremel.

Also, if you need to replace any hose MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT GRADE...R10 (quadruple check this) is what you want. It's written on the hose. You prob need a NAPA for that. I did. DO NOT JUST ASK FOR "FUEL INJECTION HOSE." You will likely get the inferior grade.

John

Thanks guys....I thought I was safe with the 5/16". As far as the E-15...From what I have been reading, is to avoid it completely for any small engines. There is a website pure-gas.org for places to get E-0. I have not checked into that yet. Although I have not seen E-15 yet in my area...I'm sure I''ll avoid those stations. I have also tried this http://mystarbrite.com/startron//conten ... 3/lang,en/ as opposed to the Seafoam for a couple of times this winter. I have noticed no difference compared to the Seafoam and so far this summer I have yet to hear any of the dreaded pinging on accelleration. I will say that I ran a tank of 93 super unleaded last week and for the first time I did notice a difference in performance! I usually run the mid-grade 89.

I did that procedure at least twice. As I recall there are fuel line clamps in the tank that have to be removed/replaced in order to replace the big O-ring to seal the tank. If you aren't replacing that O-ring those OEM clamps can stay put. The only ones you need are the 2 holding the fuel filter itself. But with 48K you probably need to replace that O-ring.

As I said it has been a while so someone please correct me if I've stated incorrectly.

agree on the O ring. And if it is exposed to gas it will stretch a bit, so you want to get it right the first time, ie before you fill the tank.

I had more difficulty with the 0-ring than anything else.

Thanks for the info. So will I need 2 additional clamps of the same size to replace the gasket?

Thanks for the info. So will I need 2 additional clamps of the same size to replace the gasket?

I can't verify THAT. I just can't remember if the lines in the tank have the same size clamps. I vaguely remember that two of them are the same and two are smaller. Maybe a check on BMW parts fiche diagram would help.

Have replaced the fuel filter a few times now - don't think I've ever replaced the clamps.... just opened them up slightly to remove the filter, then clamped them back down again after using pliers (IIRC). Seems to work ok.

The big plate-seal o-ring will go over the plate so you don't need to remove any other hosing.

Just replaced fuel filter on my r1150r Rockster. I had to open spring type clamps to disconnect two vent hoses. Mark which one goes where. Those clamps can be reused if opened carefully. Don't know the size of them but they are smaller than those used on QD. Disconnecting those vent hoses allows for lifting and rotating fuel pump plate assembly so it can be removed. There are two clamps on fuel filter. Same size and type as on QD. You need to cut them and replace them. I replaced them with OEM. It took me 2hrs on the first try. Start to finish. Check this link- same type on vent hoses just smaller. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVvxx15-fO0

I just did mine about two months back.. it helps if you have the hands the size of 6 year old.. !!! for the three handed job of holding the new rubber o-ring.. sliding everything in place.. lining up the mounting bolts.. etc..
To hold the rubber o-ring in place I ended up using some gasket cement.. it did make it somewhat easier.

Do the brass tube thing and go external.. After doing this once, getting it outside the tank is the right way to go.. .. I will for sure next year.

Good Luck

I too, reuse the oem clamps. Insert the correct size,very small, standard straight screwdriver into the slot of the "pinch" and wiggle & twist until you can slide off the line. I use a pair of small side cutters to re-close the oem clamp.The tubing fix/filter substitute inside the tank, can be steel or brass,etc.., size is what matters & that it is securely clamped, doesn't have to have a "bump" on the tubing as long as a tight fit in the fuel lines. Careful on the small nut/studs holding the screen filter , fuel level assy. & mark with a crayon before removal to facilitate going back carefully wo damage to the goodies. RELOCATE! the filter to external and replace with a cheap all steel common USA V-8 filter with welded case to the top of the air box where the OBD was originally. I used a SS clamp fastened to the airbox lid & moved the OBD to nearby. As I recall, it takes 5' of the fuel line already mentioned to palce where I did, which is a commonly chosen spot. Not long after I did this job, I had a no start from water in fuel & after easily draining off the bad gas I simply bought another cheapie filter and installed in a few. On the roadside this is also possible a bit easier than tank removal & so on... The most important thing to keep in mind, other than what others have said on the O-ring is to keep track of which line is doing what so you don't have them switched(which can also cause you to cut wrong too!) before positioning the filter,lines, clamps & disconnects. A side benefit to the extra fuel lines is a tiny bit more fuel in the system which I can attest to being a godsend in Mexico in a certain location!