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Which, in your opinion is better: a 3-hose or 4-hose Spiegler brake line kit to replace the front brake lines? The 4-hose kit will keep the distribution block in the system like OEM, while the 3-hose kit bypasses the distribution block and goes directly from the master cylinder on the RH grip to the calipers which I think might reduce hose twisting wear while steering. But that's not where mine failed...mine started leaking Friday from the crimp at the top of the short hose to the RH caliper (under the junction block mounted on the RH fork).

Tips or tricks for replacing front brake lines welcome...

If you're ABS-free, then you might add "2-hose" to your options.

IIRC, riceburner adopted a "superbike" setup, with two separate lines running from the front master cylinder via double banjo bolt, one to each caliper... that setup is known to provide best, most direct brake feedback.

I'm still running the stock Rockster front brake line, but would like to change it via a custom Spiegler setup. And current preference (for better or worse) is a 2-hose: master cylinder to one of the front calipers, then over the top to the other caliper.

Mornin Mark,

do you think this would make a difference? With the steel braided lines I believe it does not make a difference if you use 2, 3 or 4 lines. The pressure will distribute evenly ... Hence I would buy a kit which just replaces the stock lines.

Brgds
Oliver

sweatmark wrote:If you're ABS-free, then you might add "2-hose" to your options.

IIRC, riceburner adopted a "superbike" setup, with two separate lines running from the front master cylinder via double banjo bolt, one to each caliper... that setup is known to provide best, most direct brake feedback.

I'm still running the stock Rockster front brake line, but would like to change it via a custom Spiegler setup. And current preference (for better or worse) is a 2-hose: master cylinder to one of the front calipers, then over the top to the other caliper.

What Mark said - the 2 hose setup with a double banjo at the m/c works very well and is easy to assemble and bleed. (no possibility of a air-bubble in the loop over the wheel.).

Thanks Sweatmark.

If you're ABS-free, then you might add "2-hose" to your options

I am ABS free, and that is a good option because as Riceburner said,

is easy to assemble and bleed. (no possibility of a air-bubble in the loop over the wheel.).

I'll check if Spiegler carries it.

Can I have the link for speigler?
My 01 Rt1100 stretches the fr brk hose when on center stand and steering locked.
I have abs2 that doesn't work, so i have added ebc hh pads and they stop great.
While putting on driving lites I noticed that the chrome fr brake line holder on fr fork was twisted forward stretching the brake line.
I corrected position and hose is fine.
1 speigler line from grip to caliper is $100.

Can I have the link for speigler?

http://www.spieglerusa.com/

Many prominent moto-equipment retailers carry the Spiegler stuff.

You should be able to specify the fittings and hose-lengths that you need (Remember to allow a fair amount for fork compression-extension AND curving about the headstock. Better too long than too short).

Bimmerguy said:

i have added ebc hh pads and they stop great.

I'm using them too, and wonder if the brake fluid that leaked on them can be cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol?

Sunbeemer wrote:Bimmerguy said:

i have added ebc hh pads and they stop great.

I'm using them too, and wonder if the brake fluid that leaked on them can be cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol?

Brake cleaner cleans brake fluid very well. RR

Thanks for the tip, RR. I'll try it!

Received the brake lines from Spiegler today, and the one that goes to the left caliper which should be 6", is 14.5" long. They are going to send me the correct line, but not in time for me to get it back together this weekend, so I have to go another week before I can ride.

I got the replacement brake hose Tuesday -- apparently there is another design of the 1150R that uses a crossover brake hose instead of the metal line that I have, which is why they sent the extra-long hose even though I told them I had the metal crossover. Anyway I swapped out all the hoses yesterday (took 8 hours going slow), and everything fit ok except the aluminum junction block that had to be filed slightly to get it seated in the bracket on the right fork. Also had to twist a banjo fitting on the uppermost hose to fit it on the master cylinder and distribution/bleeder block under the tank, but it was surprisingly easy to twist using the plastic clamping blocks and rod included in the Spiegler brake hose kit.

Bleeding the system was pretty straigthforward: I started with right caliper, then left, then the distribution block bleeder, then back to the calipers again and the lever firmed right up. Didn't get any paint-destroying brake fluid anywhere by dropping a razor blade into the master cylinder reservoir to prevent back splatter (thanks whoever posted that trick - Iowabeakster?)

Considering the original fittings were 10 years old, they came apart ok with tubing wrenches on the metal line's flare nuts...had to take the junction block off the fork with it's hoses and metal crossover pipe attached and put it in a vise to get the metal pipe fittings loose...they were tight! And aligning the fine threaded banjo bolts into the caliper holes was too difficult on the mounted right-hand caliper, so I removed it to start the banjo bolt. Left side was easy.

Now have to go put the tank back on and test ride.

EDIT: It's all good, no leaks & good brakes! There is a slight increase in abruptness upon application- no rubber ballooning - but it is just a nuance, not enough difference to change braking technique, maybe just a millisecond slower squeeze.

It's good to be back in the saddle again!!

In previous bikes, I have installed 2-line aftermarket brake line kits with great success. The key with these kits is to remove the distribution block which leads to a numb brake feeling. The two-line kits use a double banjo fitting at the master cylinder and run individual lines to each brake caliper. Simple and effective!

Why can't you use the double Banjo bolt and a separate lines to each front caliper with ABS brakes?

If you bypass the fitting, or splitter on the right side of the steering head, where the line from the master cylinder goes to it, you bypass the ABS .

This fitting has another line that goes to the ABS unit .

AZBMWRIDER wrote:If you bypass the fitting, or splitter on the right side of the steering head, where the line from the master cylinder goes to it, you bypass the ABS .

This fitting has another line that goes to the ABS unit .

This.

On the non-ABS bikes BMW just used exactly the same brake lines as the ABS bikes (makes good sense from a production engineering and production line management point of view), but instead of having the ABS feed join line unit on the side of the headstock - the non-ABS bikes just have a little U-shaped fitting to join the brake lines together.

Shaggy 473 wrote:Why can't you use the double Banjo bolt and a separate lines to each front caliper with ABS brakes?

You can. Here are pictures of my 2 line setup (+1 from master cylinder to ABS unit):




-JayTee