R1150R Hard starting

[Gonzo49i]

R1150R 27K. I had the 24K service completed. Prior to the service the bike was difficult to start and ran rough, stalled when down shifting and occaisionally stalled when starting from a complete stop or pause and go. At the service they repaced one of the primary coils. The bike ran better but not perfect. I returned and they diagnosed and replaced the other primary coil. The bike ran perfectly for a few days and then the hard starting problem came back. The problem is intermittant, at times there is no problem, the hard starting occurs whether the engine is hot or cold. I have used the bike for 100 mile + rides stopped for gas and had difficulty restarting. The stalling when downshifing has gone away but it still stalls on occasion when taking off from a stop or pause and go.

I did use starting ether the last time I rode the bike (to the dealer) and the bike started right up

Has anyone had any similar problems? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Gonzo49i]

Sorry 2004 R1150R dual spark.

[kirby]

154

[Gonzo49i]

Mike,
Thanks for the info. The bike runs very well once it is started, no hesitation or surging and is smooth all the way up to the redline. When you had the problem did you experience anything similar?

Glenn

[spoon]

Just a question, are you using the choke lever (fast idle, cold start, whatever its called) when starting cold. Have you tried hoding the throttle open about 1/8th and hit the starter button. This would increase the fuel spray. My thought is if it starts this way the fast idle cable is out of adjustment.

[kirby]

mike

[Gonzo49i]

i have tried to start it both with and without the cold start lever. Playing with the throttle seemed to be more effective. The last time I started it I used ether after playing with the cold start lever and the throttle and it started right up. I then rode it back to the dealer where it is now.

[Gonzo49i]

Well here's an update. Rode the bike back to the dealer and got caught in a monsoon thunder storm. Didn't want to stop and seek shelter because of the uncertainty of restarting .Finally got to the dealership and was able to duplicate the problem. Three days later got the call that the bike was repaired ready to go and was running great according to the service rep, they said the same thing every time I've picked up the bike . The "problem" was a hole in a U shaped fuel line inside the tank causing insufficient fuel pressure, they showed me the part when I got there. Took the bike outside and the rep tried to start the bike. Cranked several times....nothing. Finally after about two minutes of intermittant cranking it started. Shut it down and tried again.....same thing. Left it there, called today "starts right up". They adjusted the TBS. But the starter is going drawing too much current and that's the reason I have a problem. The battery is 2 months old and the starter cranks well.

Do you think 'Im getting a line of BS!

Picking up the bike tomorrow. I'll update the post

[kirby]

3460

[Ol' Jeffers]

For me the strangest thing is that the bike was OK before the service.
and I'm wondering about the competency of the person who carried out the service and
the road test after it was serviced. Maybe they don't know how to correctly balance throttle bodies.
I think I would be looking for a different repairer!
Just my thoughts.....

[jbw]

For me the strangest thing is that the bike was OK before the service.
and I'm wondering about the competency of the person who carried out the service and
the road test after it was serviced. Maybe they don't know how to correctly balance throttle bodies.
Just my thoughts.....

I just bought an 1150r and had a similar problem...hard starting, rough running to the point that the bike wanted to die. It supposedly had its 18k service 2k before I bought it, documented with receipts and all. My problem was alleviated wiht a tps adjustment, throttle sync, timing check (computer AND manual check w/ a light [I was 15 degrees off!]) and a valve adjustment by a very knowledeable master tech.

I know my Duc is due for a valve adjustment when it is hard to start (it has a 6k specified interval as well) which is where I'd suggest you start. But as I am new to this bike and don't posess specific knowledge as of yet, my only real advice would be to go and request to talk to the tech whom performed the work, and have a conversation with him. If he seems like a real dim-witted soul after you ask very specific questions about what was done to alleviate the problem and you aren't satisfied...find another shop!

[foobar]

Sounds like it might be the ignition leads.

Where are these ignition leads and where would I find the replacement kit you mentioned?

Thanks

[kirby]

3461

[foobar]

Aw, I have lot's of problems, but the bike-oriented one stems from a day-long ride in the rain. We did not intend to ride in the rain, but got caught 100 mi from home, and, well, it poured...

A friend and I swapped bikes and he was on mine when the engine just quit running-- at 80mph. No drama. He just pulled the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. It was running like a champ all day, so this was completely unexpected. I know my battery was on its last legs. My working theory starts there. The backup line of thought is "something got wet".

When starting the engine, what's left of the battery cranks the motor over. It is even lit (started) for a second or two a couple of times-- and sound normal and healthy at that-- but it dies after a second or two.

Your post caught my attention.

[Sunbeemer]

Foobar, your rain riding failure sounds similar to symptoms of deteriorated HES wiring insulation that got wet and shorted out, which is also often accomnpanied by wild swings of the tachometer needle while dying.

[foobar]

Charged the battery again. The bike started for about 2 seconds (and sounded normal) and then died. The battery has enough in it for 5-6 more tries and then the headlight dims. Looks like this is repeatable... However, no wild swings of the tach.

I would not rule out a short, though. I am unfamiliar with "HES"-- where would I look to check for this?

I have ordered an Odyssey PC680. I am hopping that the current battery is just shot and that's the end of it...

[kirby]

mike

[foobar]

<snip>
I have ordered an Odyssey PC680. I am hopping that the current battery is just shot and that's the end of it...

Problem resolved with the new battery. It is interesting that the R1150R would just shut off while doing 80 or so-- about 4000 RPMs-- if juice is low. I need to check the output from the alternator to be sure it is in spec...

Oddly enough, a CBR600 had the same issue on the trip when its battery started dying. The Honda cut out gradually, though. At first it would not start, then the redline would become progressively lower until it would not rev over 2000. The it quit. The whole process took about 3 hrs.

The R went from 100% to zero instantly.

[CycleRob]

Without the stabilizing electrical ballast of a good battery in the circuit, the voltage regulator will not function correctly and in the case of the CBR600 Honda with it's permanent magnet shunt regulated voltage regulator, it's ignition ECU likely had an over voltage condition and just shut the engine down.

When an old battery fails they go either towards an open circuit (a cracked cell connector bar) or degrade to individual shorted cell(s), which reduce the battery voltage and severely overcharge the remaining 5 (or 4) cells while the engine is still running, speeding up the system failure. Either way, really slow cranking starts (if it's not caused by worn starter armature contacts) should be a sign to immediately replace the battery and avoid running the engine. Doing so can damage the alternator (voltage spikes) and blow out light bulbs with an over voltage. Even with cars that have a dead battery, the owner's manual warns that the car's alternator is NOT designed to recharge a dead battery (it can overheat to component damage) - - yet we ALL have jump started a dead car battery and driven it to our destination. Fortunately, these dead batteries most often appear in very cold weather, where an overloaded alternator has a better chance to survive. If someone leaves the headlites on for 8 hours on a hot summer day, the needed jump start could very well provide the last drive with it's current alternator.

On the R1150R, there is an absolutely wonderful, very powerful, 700 Watt car alternator that will have NO PROBLEM AT ALL recharging it's nearly dead 18 or 23 Amp-Hr battery. Just don't rely on it to continually revive a battery that repeatedly goes flat overnight or you'll be pushing your luck by introducing additional (dangerous and destructive) arching/sparking when you connect/disconnect the jumper cables.

[foobar]

Wow-- a pretty good education for me right there. Nice write up.

And you are absolutely correct, both my friend w/ the CBR600 and I w/ the R1150R were making conscious decisions to rely on the alternator to recharge the weak batteries. Lesson learned.