BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Love my R1200R it is an 08 with ABS, It seems that I have a long brake lever pull. This is My first BMW with ABS and have been used to a very short two finger pull with those brand X bikes ( duck and honda). is there any way to shorten the pull, it is like an inch before I get brakes. I have bleed brakes and there is no air in the system. what about new lever?
thanks for your help
Bill

Hate to state the obvious; but have you tried adjusting the lever itself. Have you checked th epads for wear. My r12r has a pull only slightly longer than my 2011 Duc monster and stops quicker; two fingers is all i ever need or use.

My '07 has a soft lever, always has, even after the brake line recalls (which required bleeding) and regular service by competent mechanics.
The Pazzo levers allow me to adjust the reach. I have the brake lever adjusted so that it's close for my shortish fingers, but if really strongly squeezed in the garage, the lever just touches the grip. My riding partner (R1100S, firm lever) didn't like it. Still, I've never gotten anywhere near the grip on the street.

That sounds like air in the brake system. I'd have the system looked at by a pro.

2012 R1200R. Firm brake lever. Two fingers is plenty. Hard squeeze moves it rearward about one inch, or about half way to the grip. Stops there. +1 Las & Don's comments.

Don C wrote:That sounds like air in the brake system. I'd have the system looked at by a pro.

It sure does. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll take it back.

Don C wrote:That sounds like air in the brake system. I'd have the system looked at by a pro.

Or you can use some electric tape to hold the lever squeezed in tight and leave it overnight to bleed the air, a trick an old dirt bike racer taught me.

swisswilliam wrote:I have bleed brakes and there is no air in the system.

I thought it took a special tool only the dealer has to bleed the brakes on an ABS bike?

only special tool needed would be your mind............ bleed the brakes.

dbrick wrote:

Don C wrote:That sounds like air in the brake system. I'd have the system looked at by a pro.

It sure does. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll take it back.

Rode back and had a chat with Ted at the Beemershop this afternoon. He moved and squeezed and fiddled with the lever, and said that this particular combination of parts often yields a soft brake lever, even 'tho the brake lines are all metal and care was taken that there's no air in the system. He was clear that my bike was within tolerance. I squeezed the brake levers on two others R12s at the shop, and they were the same.

I liked the firmer feel of the brakes on the R1100RSL that I used to have, but I have no complaints with how these brakes work. In even the hardest stops, the lever doesn't come near the bar.

Lost Rider wrote:

Don C wrote:That sounds like air in the brake system. I'd have the system looked at by a pro.

Or you can use some electric tape to hold the lever squeezed in tight and leave it overnight to bleed the air, a trick an old dirt bike racer taught me.

Hi i have soft brakes too, how do you do this do you leave your bleed nipple open .please expain how its done.I have tried to bleed them without any luck,it's an abs system.The first pull on the brake is almost to the trottle the next pull is higher,as if there is air in the system Any idea will be helpfull.
Just do not ask me to see a my local bmw dealer as i have no confidence in them as they have never done a decent service on any of my bikes.

zackvis wrote:Hi i have soft brakes too, how do you do this do you leave your bleed nipple open .please expain how its done.I have tried to bleed them without any luck,it's an abs system.The first pull on the brake is almost to the trottle the next pull is higher,as if there is air in the system

That's the "they all do that.." thing, and it's much more indicative of the pistons in the calipers self-retracting. Air in the system will be soft every time.

Any idea will be helpfull.
Just do not ask me to see a my local bmw dealer as i have no confidence in them as they have never done a decent service on any of my bikes.

As far as holding the lever fully in overnight, use a tie-wrap around the end of the lever and the grip to hold it in. Turn the bars so the master-cylinder/reservior are the highest thing, then go to bed. No need to open anything. In the morning, cut the tie-wrap off and see if there is any difference.

Sometimes there is, sometimes not. It depends on if air is trapped in the master-cylinder or not. I've done the same thing to fully bleed the clutch circuit on my BMW M-Coupe after changing a hose and the slave cylinder.. but I used a large pipe clamp to hold the pedal down to the floor overnight. In the morning it felt wonderful and has stayed wonderful.

Worth a try, only costs you one tie-wrap..

Don,

Mine doesn't "pump up" as zacvis describes, which to me says the system is free of air bubbles.
Should I still try the ziptie tactic?

dbrick wrote:Don,

Mine doesn't "pump up" as zacvis describes, which to me says the system is free of air bubbles.
Should I still try the ziptie tactic?

David,

I think I may not have been clear (ah, it's in another thread I think..). Pumping up - ie - the lever doesn't move as far toward the grip on the second stroke quickly following the first, is NOT a symptom of air in the system. A lever that is soft all the time and moves toward the grip too far ALL the time is a symptom of air in the system.

Which means you have it EdZachery backwards.. It can't hurt to do it, so.. go for it.

deilenberger wrote:It can't hurt to do it, so.. go for it.

Thanks. You were clear - as I read now, more slowly. Just now wrapped it up tight with duct tape. I'll report back.

But...I still don't understand how pressurizing the system for a time can move or remove air bubbles. Still, I won't quarrel with results,

mine is soft and has a longer 'pull' the first time as well. sounds like the 'pump up' described. i have not seen the other thread tho.

don't like it but then again it's never caused me any real trouble.

wes

Unwrapped the duct tape this morning and having the front brake lever squeezed all night, and the lever is perceptibly firmer than it was.

I don't understand the mechanics - how would persistent squeezing move or remove air bubbles? - but I won't quarrel with results. Haven't ridden yet, be interesting to see if it feels different and how long this change will last.

dbrick wrote:Unwrapped the duct tape this morning and having the front brake lever squeezed all night, and the lever is perceptibly firmer than it was.

I don't understand the mechanics - how would persistent squeezing move or remove air bubbles? - but I won't quarrel with results. Haven't ridden yet, be interesting to see if it feels different and how long this change will last.

Keeping the handlebar cranked to the left on the sidestand encourages the air bubbles to rise to the highest point: the MC at the "top" of the cranked handlebar.

I believe the idea is that keeping the lever squeezed allows air bubbles to flow through the valve into the MC and will then meld with the air above the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

It was the only way I was ever able to get a firm lever pull with my K75.

Chuck

Chuck,

Did the firm lever last, or did it gradually return to soft?

dbrick wrote:Chuck,

Did the firm lever last, or did it gradually return to soft?

It lasted. This was a non-ABS bike, by the way.

I believe the issue with the K75 was the complexity of the plumbing in the front brake system. There were 5 banjo joints in the front system alone (one of them a double).

Chuck