BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Just finished a complete service at 64,000 miles. I'd consider the service a major one, dunno what a dealer would have charged, but I spent about $600 on parts/supplies (including tire and brakes.) What I did was:

- Engine
o -- New plugs
o -- New air cleaner
o -- Checked valve clearances (haven't changed in 18,000 miles now!) NO adjustment needed, again.
o -- Replaced the left side timing chain tensioner - I was getting clatter on startup, now I'm not. Old one seemed to be binding and would not compress or feel spring loaded like the new one did.
o -- Lubricated the idle air stepper motor shafts (see other thread on that.)
o -- Replaced the alternator belt (had 32,000 miles on it.)
o -- Sync'd the throttle-bodies. First time I ever had it need adjustment, but I attribute that to my removing and replacing the port side throttle body in order to R&R the timing chain tensioner.
o -- Oil and filter

- Transmission
o -- Drain and refill

Rear drive
o -- Drain and refill, lubricate the rear driveshaft spline and check rear U joint for any wear or notchiness.

- Brakes
o -- Replace rear rotor (with an EBC one) it was 3.5mm thickness, spec is 4.0mm minimum.
o -- Flush front and rear brake circuits

- General
o -- Clean entire bike and look over all fasteners, connectors, tie-wraps, wiring.
o -- Read out all modules for fault codes with GS-911, No stored codes found.
o -- Rear tire, replace with new Pilot Road 3 (old one had about 11,500 miles on it or so. Front was replaced about 4,000 miles ago.)
o -- Removed and cleaned the clutch switch.

Some specific notes:

The alternator belt is now officially a bitch to replace. The original belt was 611mm in length. The new spec from BMW is for a belt that is 592mm in length. This changed around 07/12 according to the parts listings. The old one could be installed relatively easy using some thick flexible plastic to slide it onto the lower pully. The new one had to be hopped onto the pully, not a technique I'm real happy with. BMW makes a tool for this purpose, I'd own one except it's $125 or so. Old belt looked perfect (as did the one it replaced at 32,000 miles.)

The clutch switch (on the lever assembly) was not working (despite clicking OK), after removal and cleaning with electrical cleaner and working it at the same time, it started working again. There is a small metal piece that is just resting in place in the switch that the grub screw that holds it in pushes against. It faces down, so it's going to fall out. DUMB design. I superglued the piece to the switch to make replacement/adjustment easier. IMHO the switch should come with one already glued in place.

Plugs looked fine, after removal I would feel comfortable with another 12,000 miles on them, but since I had the new ones they went in (and the old ones are kept as spares.)

Air-cleaner looked OK. Not new, but not excessively clogged. It was last changed 24,000 miles ago.

Transmission and rear drive fluids drained nice and clear, no sign of any stuff in them. On the rear drive I used the new BMW packaged Castrol XFO oil (75W-90) that was originally specified for this rear drive as the "lifetime lube". I'll continue to change it at 24,000 mile intervals.

Rear tire was flattened off and thin near center at around 11,500 miles. Was a bit unnerving in heavy rain so it got replaced.

New rotor can be had from BikeBandit for much less $$ than BMW. BMW wants $300 for a new rear rotor. The EBC one I bought - with discounts - was $124. I put in new EBC pads, decided to try the organic street pads EBC recommends this time. Old rotor was badly worn, and below spec. It's a bit of a PITA job due to how BMW gives access to the rotor mounting bolts. You need a long-shaft T40 driver (Torx-40), shaft has to be at least 2" long (3" is preferable.) It's not easy to get to the mounting surfaces on the aluminum hub to clean them, but DO make the effort. I used new screws (about $1.10/each from BMW), but the old ones would have been fine to use with some BLUE Loctite (medium strength.) This is also a good time to remove the sliding part of the rear caliper and grease the pins (use high temperature grease.)

Other than that - nothing remarkable to report. Nothing really broken except the cam-chain tensioner, some worn out parts but they are normal wear parts, some fluids needed changing. I don't see any reason this bike won't make it to the 128,000 mile service. The new alternator belt is a BITCH, so I'm going to be looking for a 611mm length one to throw on the bike as a spare. The entire service took about 4 days working intermittently on it (only one really long day) - which is one of the nice things about being retired, there was no rush to it.

Re the Pilot Road 3.

I have had three sets and on each one I noticed something. As the rear wears, it can slide a bit over tar snakes, just enough to feel. It does not do it when new.
I do not notice it on the front, just the rear. The mileage you report is slightly lower than what I got from them, but similar.
The tar snake thing was noticed even when the temps were not that high. I could feel it in the mid 70s. I suppose it could relate to the compound used in the snake, and I noticed it in Texas and Colorado and Arkansas. I noticed it enough that it is on my mind when I see the tar snakes.
A friend who had prviously always rode Metzlers (Z6 s), said she noticed it, the rear, at 5k miles, and that is my experience also, like a mid life crisis of grip. It was enough of a slip for her that she will switch out.

You ever notice that?

Good writeup on the 64k service, btw

John

Thanks for the writeup. Do you feel one should lube clutch and front shaft splines at this relatively high mileage? I don't know. I still have some miles to get there.

Regarding 'Replaced the left side timing chain tensioner': I have the chatter on the right at startup since I got the bike. Last time I checked the fiche I think to remember there are a spring and piston in there. Are those the parts you replaced? If you have parts numbers might be even better.

Harald,

No, I don't think it's necessary. I haven't heard of any clutch spline failures, and I've only heard of one front-universal failure, never a spline failure on the driveshaft.

My chatter sounded like the starboard side, but turned out to be the port side. I replaced both since I got my aftermarket warranty company to pay for the parts on the last day the warranty was in effect. I replaced the starboard (right) side first since it was so easy to get to. It made no difference in the clatter. After replacing the port (left side) the noise was gone. The port side tensioner appeared to be jammed.

Order all the parts for the port side - housing and piston. It is spring loaded, but that's part of the housing so no separate part number for it. You'll also need the special tool to release and reinstall the throttle body clamps.

Hi,
Thanks for all of the information.
Can you tell me about the rear drive fluid? I just replaced mine. I took out just under 200ml (maybe 190 - 195). The pre pack bottle was 207ml. I got most in except for a few drops and adhesion to the hose and funnel that I used because it was so thick.
Can you see the level through the speed sensor? I can not. DO you take it as most of the bottle in is good?
Thanks again.
Darren

darrene wrote:Hi,
Thanks for all of the information.
Can you tell me about the rear drive fluid? I just replaced mine. I took out just under 200ml (maybe 190 - 195). The pre pack bottle was 207ml. I got most in except for a few drops and adhesion to the hose and funnel that I used because it was so thick.
Can you see the level through the speed sensor? I can not. DO you take it as most of the bottle in is good?
Thanks again.
Darren

Hi Darren,

It might be helpful if somewhere you made note of your location, since it sounds as if you have a "prepackaged" oil available that isn't available (AFAIK) in the US. Also an idea of the year of your R12R would be good since they have changed things to them during the production run.

The current fill specification from BMW is 180mL (or 180cc's - your choice, same thing.) The old spec was 224mL on a refill, and a somewhat larger amount on a dry fill (on a new or rebuilt drive.)

I suspect you'll be just fine. I'd guess 207mL would be a "dry fill" quantity for these drives. You might have a bit too much fluid in there, but not enough that I'd stay up nights worrying about it. The reason BMW changed from the 224ml to 180ml was some IronButt riders in the US burned up their rear drives. The thinking was- the long extended use of the drive caused the fluid to get hot and expand, and since at the time the drives were sealed, there wasn't enough air room in them to take up the expanded oil, and the oil forced out a seal. Once the seal was breeched, the drive ran dry, overheated and some actually caught fire.

So BMW reduced the quantity of oil to give more air-room in the sealed drives. The later drives, which have a breather, don't need the extra room, so a bit more oil won't hurt a thing. I suspect even in the old drives a slight overfill isn't really a concern unless you ride for 24/48 hours continuously without ever stopping.

You cannot see or measure the oil level in the hexhead rear drives. The amount is determined only by quantity.

Don:
I am going to be changing my alternator belt sometime this summer. I have already bought the 592 MM belt. What do you mean that the belt needed to be "hopped" onto the lower pulley? I was hoping to use the plastic pop bottle trick to get the belt on. Any information would be great.

Thanks
Roger L

roger l wrote:Don:
I am going to be changing my alternator belt sometime this summer. I have already bought the 592 MM belt. What do you mean that the belt needed to be "hopped" onto the lower pulley? I was hoping to use the plastic pop bottle trick to get the belt on. Any information would be great.

Thanks
Roger L

The pop-bottle trick isn't going to work. I'd used it last time I changed the belt, tried it this time, and it was a total failure.

What I meant by "hopped on" - was I forced the belt to stay on the right side of the pulley (by putting a small plastic screwdriver handle between the belt started on the pulley and the casting recess the pulley is located in) and then turning the engine over clockwise using a big Cresent-wrench on the crankshaft nut (I don't have a socket that fits that nut well.. I have too small and too large. It's a big nut, probably 36mm.) The screwdriver went around with the belt, forcing the belt to stay in the grooves and on the pulley. The left side was stretched quite tight as this was happening, and finally the belt sort of hopped on the rest of the way. I tried numerous times with a piece of plastic to get the belt on the pulley and had no luck. I also tried walking it on the same way I did when I used the screwdriver (but without the screwdriver handle) and it just wasn't going to happen.

I do have a photo of the screwdriver handle in position (after the belt was on) and I'll try to upload it and link it here.

I'm not happy with that technique since it has a distinct possibility of damaging the belt, but it was all I had. I've got to find a source for the 611mm elastic belt.

Here is the photo:


This photo was taken AFTER the new belt was installed. The screwdriver handle is located where I started putting the belt on. As I turned the pulley (via the big nut) the belt was kept in the pulley by the screwdriver handle, which moved around with the pulley.

Don:
Below is a link to where I bought my belt. It looks like they have both the 611 and the 592 mm long belt. I did not look at the belt that is on my bike. I just bought the delt that was listed on the parts drawing. What number is on the belt you took off on your bike?

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Search ... earch=belt


Thanks
Roger L

Thanks for the quick reply.
I bought the SAFXO from Max BMW (Northeaset US - I think). I live near Pittsburgh, PA.
It is a 2009 R1200R.
I was concerned about the few cc (maybe 15 -20, or so, of the 207 not making it in. Now I don't know if I should be concerned about too much in. But it does not sound like it. I guess the only way is to measure what comes out next time; and fill the same way with the same spillage.
Do you have an idea how low (volume) is too low for comfort?

Thank you again.
Darren

roger l wrote:Don:
Below is a link to where I bought my belt. It looks like they have both the 611 and the 592 mm long belt. I did not look at the belt that is on my bike. I just bought the delt that was listed on the parts drawing. What number is on the belt you took off on your bike?

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Search ... earch=belt

Thanks
Roger L

Hi Roger,

Yes, I saw this page before. It has some confusion on it (probably attributable to cut/paste and forgot to edit)..

The numbers on the ContiTech belt ie: "4 PK 611 SR" means:

4 = number of ribs
PK = the belt profile (shape of the ribs, which is apparently an SAE standard)
611 = ID of the belt at the bottom of one of the grooves between ribs
SR = I believe this means "elastic" - ie, stretch type belt, but not certain of that. Can't find a reference for it.

There is info on Conti's tech pages: http://pic.ctapps.de/web/en/ART_04007_e ... 11%20ELAST

On the Euro Motoelectrics catalog page - it's a bit confusing the belt on the upper right despite them listing having the Conti designation for 611mm long - is a 592mm long belt. The one on the left side looks to be the correct 611 belt, so that's of interest to me.

Here is the belt that came off:


And the new replacement from BMW:


You can see the BMW PN matches the info on his page.

That Conti page also leads to a page for an installation tool - http://www.contitech.de/pages/produkte/ ... st_en.html - complete with an interesting video. I searched for this on-line and the best price I found was $130 from an ebay vendor.

darrene wrote:Thanks for the quick reply.
I bought the SAFXO from Max BMW (Northeaset US - I think). I live near Pittsburgh, PA.
It is a 2009 R1200R.
I was concerned about the few cc (maybe 15 -20, or so, of the 207 not making it in. Now I don't know if I should be concerned about too much in. But it does not sound like it. I guess the only way is to measure what comes out next time; and fill the same way with the same spillage.
Do you have an idea how low (volume) is too low for comfort?

Thank you again.
Darren

Dunno what level is dangerous, but as a WAG - if there is oil in there, it will get splashed around on the gears and bearings and all will be well.. It sounds as if you got about 180cc in, so that should be fine.

More on the belt.. a mechanic friend suggested searching for a Gates installation tool since apparently Gates sells/makes lots of stretch belts.

Found it: http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cf ... n_id=15470



Take a look a video on the left of that page for how it works. Found one on Amazon for less than $10 delivered. It's on it's way..

Thanks for the link. Goes against everything I was taught on putting on a belt.

I must be an old guy....

David

I must be an old guy....

Be careful with loose statements like that. Could become a self fulfilling prophesy. Next thing you know you'll be making groaning noises when you crawl under the bike to get to the belt.
Hope this helps

Don:
When you get the Gates tool I would like you to take some measurements of it for me. I think that I can make one of those tools for when I change my alternator belt.

Thanks
Roger L

roger l wrote:Don:
When you get the Gates tool I would like you to take some measurements of it for me. I think that I can make one of those tools for when I change my alternator belt.

Thanks
Roger L

Is it worth making one to save $9? Just wondering...

deilenberger wrote: Found one on Amazon for less than $10 delivered. It's on it's way..

There are four available sizes. How'd you ascertain which is correct?

Don,
I got the impression from your post further up that said special tool may not be necessary when installing the 611mm belt. Is that a fair assumption, or would you say it's good to have at any rate?

Looks like Amazon shows it as a Gates 91030 Engine Tool. I ordered one to put in the tool box. I just changed my belt and to say it stretched my patience would be putting it mildly. I have to do the one on my Valkyrie so I'll give this a try.