BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hope everyone is well.
Thinking of going from my 09 to a 2013 that has less than 2500 miles on it. Other than the instrument cluster, I know the '13 has twin cam vs the push-rod set up on my 09. Are there benefits of one vs the other? Will I feel difference? Seems like about 5 or 6 horsepower difference in 2013 which I probably wont' notice. I hear the twin cam engine revs more freely? Love all this bike does is and what it does and with the water cooling approaching may want to move to the 2013 so I can keep this one a bit longer.

Thoughts and input welcome.

LeonardoNYC wrote:Hope everyone is well.
Thinking of going from my 09 to a 2013 that has less than 2500 miles on it. Other than the instrument cluster, I know the '13 has twin cam vs the push-rod set up on my 09. Are there benefits of one vs the other? Will I feel difference? Seems like about 5 or 6 horsepower difference in 2013 which I probably wont' notice. I hear the twin cam engine revs more freely? Love all this bike does is and what it does and with the water cooling approaching may want to move to the 2013 so I can keep this one a bit longer.

Thoughts and input welcome.

Between my '07 and '14 was NIGHT & DAY! It has been a much smoother ride.

2011 was the year of the "facelift" as a result, the bike looks a bit different in the front and the windshield mounting hardware is not the same as previous years. Also, beefier forks, sculptural bars, different headlight mounting and rear grab). A more scooped "comfort" seat.

Hi LeonardoNYC!

2009 R12R has a SOHC engine,2011 and on has DOHC engine.Pushrods gone a long time before.The difference SOHC vs DOHC is marginal.Can not feel too much difference.Both are smooth if well tuned.Power?Literarly no diference.

Steve H. wrote:Hi LeonardoNYC!

2009 R12R has a SOHC engine,2011 and on has DOHC engine.Pushrods gone a long time before.The difference SOHC vs DOHC is marginal.Can not feel too much difference.Both are smooth if well tuned.Power?Literarly no diference.

Hi Steve - actually there are vestigial pushrods on the 2007-2010 engines - about 1.25" long. The cam is actually below the top of the valve stems, and the pushrods send the action up to the rocker arms.

Not that I'd expect a huge performance difference due to just this - the max RPM hasn't changed, and that's the usual reason to do an overhead cam engine vs pushrod. I believe BMW spec'd 1HP difference in power.

Yes Don!
You are right -but...the real pushrods are a longer pushrods coming from camshaft passing besides of cylinders ending in the engine head i.e. R75/6 I drove in 1976."Short"pushrods are the"bridge" to the valve drive.Besides the longer pushrods does not like higher RPMs because of-let say-flexing.This limiting factor helped development of SOHC and DOHC engines loving to rew.

BRGDS Steve H.

On the older engines you adjust the valves. On the newer ones you need (If it needs it) to replace a shim. What if you don't have the size shim that you need?

Got to pay visit to the beloved (s)dealer to by a proper size shim.It is easy to replace.Few bucks only.

Not to mention that shimmed valve adjustments are very stable and rarely need attention.

At 30,000mi my 2012 camhead R1200R Classic needed a new shim on one LHS and one RHS exhaust valve (the upper valves). The clearances were only slightly out of spec (measured at 0.42mm vs. specified range of 0.30mm - 040mm). The clearances on the other exhaust valves (the lower valves) and the inlet valves were near the maximum of the specified ranges. This was the first time it needed new shims. There was no significant additional cost in parts or labour to install the shims.

Is this something you did or can do easily yourself?

arp wrote:At 30,000mi my 2012 camhead R1200R Classic needed a new shim on one LHS and one RHS exhaust valve (the upper valves). The clearances were only slightly out of spec (measured at 0.42mm vs. specified range of 0.30mm - 040mm). The clearances on the other exhaust valves (the lower valves) and the inlet valves were near the maximum of the specified ranges. This was the first time it needed new shims. There was no significant additional cost in parts or labour to install the shims.

How did you know it needed new shim, did engine make a different sound?

The valve clearance check was done by the dealer as part of what they call a Level 1 service that gets done every 6,000mi. There was no indication beforehand that any shims needed to be replaced. I do not think it is hard to check clearance or change shims on the camheads, but I've never actually done it.

arp wrote:The valve clearance check was done by the dealer as part of what they call a Level 1 service that gets done every 6,000mi. There was no indication beforehand that any shims needed to be replaced. I do not think it is hard to check clearance or change shims on the camheads, but I've never actually done it.

The dealer checked valves at the 24k service and said it was fine. Now at 26k I started hearing a sound, especially when he bike has not been ridden for a while. It happened twice and seems to go away after ten min or so but sometimes I don't hear it at all. I suppose if it was the valves it would always be making that sound. I might just be hearing things

I took it to the dealer to find someone in the service department with educated ears. My bike is fine, no strange noise Must have been hearing things.

I'd suggest better ear plugs and/or (I'm an "and") a source of background music. If noise bothers you turn the music up.

deilenberger wrote:I'd suggest better ear plugs and/or (I'm an "and") a source of background music. If noise bothers you turn the music up.

+1

I wear earplugs :-)

deilenberger wrote: ... If noise bothers you turn the music up.

That was my Mother's solution to car problems. Fortunately, for my dad, she never had to drown out a low oil pressure warning with music.

Catchina wrote:I wear earplugs :-)

Time to turn up the music..