BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Morning fellas (and ladies)

Bike just turned 65K (04 ABS) and need to replace front pads. I've already ordered them and they should arrive any day now. ABS pump seems to me to be making more noise than usual and two days ago the ABS red warning lamp has come on and gone off twice (red triangle). I just did an ABS service early part of summer so all reservoirs were topped off at that time. No braking issues or problems right now other than that occasional warning light. I'm wondering if the warning lamp is related to nearly gone front pads which forces more brake fluid draw from the pump's front fluid reservoirs and possibly on the edge of being too low? Whenever these pads arrive I reckon my questions will get answered but kinda curious in the meantime.

does it come on at cold start? when mine did this. It ended up being a sneaky bad battery.

fluid was good full when I checked, and finally YANKED the abs.

interesting thought on the pads allowing too much travel though. could be....? that could also have been part of my problem, when my pads wore prematurely...

Short answer.... maybe
When it comes to iABS nobody really knows what the real issue(s) are.
I know there are plenty of batteries being replaced for no reason. (it is always the first step).
It could be the brake pads. Change the pads if you were going to anyway.
It could be a lot of things. In your case I would not worry about it until (if) you end up on residual brakes.

Thanks for the answers guys, kinda what I thought---Peels--yes the lamp comes on at cold start and then goes off as usual. Warning lamp did not go on this morning on short ride to work but did come on on trip home for lunch. I'm hoping it's related to front pads being nearly gone. I will report back after I replace pads. If and when the abs pump fails I'll be pulling it as so many others have done. A replacement pump is probably 50% of the value of the bike.

If your worn brake pads were causing the fluid low level switch to activate you would be getting an alternating 1hz flash of the warning lights.

A low fluid fault will be 1 Hz alternating lights not the solid single light you are getting.

towerworker wrote:Thanks for the answers guys, kinda what I thought---Peels--yes the lamp comes on at cold start and then goes off as usual. Warning lamp did not go on this morning on short ride to work but did come on on trip home for lunch. I'm hoping it's related to front pads being nearly gone. I will report back after I replace pads. If and when the abs pump fails I'll be pulling it as so many others have done. A replacement pump is probably 50% of the value of the bike.

yep.

ended up selling mine(working) for pocket change.

But, I would JUST ABOUT bet battery on this one.

Bike has an Odyssey battery about 3 yrs old. New pads have not arrived yet but I'm off tomorrow so I'm planning to pull the tank and check for obvious issues--e.g., battery connections (and state of charge) and fluid levels in pump. No warning lights on ride home from work. But I was careful and used very little brake and primarily used engine braking. I've will say these machines are confusing and fascinating all at the same time.

Pulled the tank and found nothing obvious. This was yesterday. Pads arrived today so I was able to install them a short time ago. By the time I finished it was near dark so just made a short ride to grocery store and then home. No warning lights although I did notice that after I pulled bike out of my shop the system had apparently vented excess brake fluid. When checking fluid levels yesterday I noted that the pump reservoirs were full which I expected because I had made sure the pump was full after doing the ABS service several months ago. I wondered if I might need to pull the tank and remove excess brake fluid after installing new pads but quickly realized the vented caps were there for just this reason. So.......so far so good. I will do a more extensive test tomorrow and report back.

Update 10/16/15--

Took the bike out this morning and flogged the hell out of the brakes. Actually engaged the ABS for the first time and all went fine. No faults or lights over about a 30 minute ride. Went out a 2nd time and rode pretty normally (for me.....an old guy) and darn!.......here comes both warning lights as I pull to a stop. Steady burning warning lamp and ABS flashing at 4hz. So I reckon this afternoon the tank will come off again and all connections and sensors will be checked.

On a positive note I did find a company that rebuilds the ABS pump for what seems to be pretty reasonable cost compared to buying new or used from a junk yard. Looks like around $250, other alternative is an ABSectomy!

http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/motor-sports/

towerworker wrote: Steady burning warning lamp and ABS flashing at 4hz.

On a positive note I did find a company that rebuilds the ABS pump for what seems to be pretty reasonable cost compared to buying new or used from a junk yard. Looks like around $250, other alternative is an ABSectomy!

http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/motor-sports/

I'm assuming that you have the servo assisted brakes on your 04 R1150R, also known as iABS. Is so then. --

The light sequence you have in for "At least one braking circuit in residual braking mode".

Module Masters is not yet repairing iABS systems, it is still under development.

Yes I saw they were not yet repairing that system. I won't have time till tomorrow to look at the bike further. Interesting in that it doesn't fail each time I ride, everything works well for a short bit. I'm hoping possibly dirt on a wheel sensor, but if not I'll most likely plan to remove the system.

An intermittent fault is a pain in the bum.
. Good luck and don't assume anything is ok until thoroughly checked. I will be interested to hear the outcome. My warning lights went odd a few years ago but they have been ok since a new battery and use of an Optimate 4.

It's my understanding that Module Masters has been saying a couple of months for at least a couple of years. I looked into this when my 04 R1150RT abs failed this summer. I originally bypassed it until I could find a reasonably priced used unit. I now carry the pieces with me that will make it easier to bypass on the road if it breaks again. My control board died so I not only had to bypass the plumbing but also the electrics for the rear lights. The speedometer on the R1150RT's is a mechanical drive so there was no need to worry about that.

Maybe a GS911 will tell you more about the fault. Do you have access to one? Our local club has one for all members to use.

No, I don't have access to one. Ran probably 4 different errands today. Failed only once. Had to work so no time to troubleshoot. Planning to take another look tomorrow. If I can't cure it with cleaning connections and the few things I know how to do then the plan will be to pull it. Anyway I'm growing tired of all the noise it makes!

Let me know if you decide to remove iABS, dont cut any wires. You can keep electrical portion.

I'm nearly certain I will. Just now taking a break from pulling tank and checking all that I can do. I've pulled ABS harness connector (s) and cleaned them with CRC electrical contact cleaner, also removed front wheel sensor and thoroughly cleaned it. I didn't bother with the rear as it seems to be in a basically clean environment (inside FD). I also cleaned all battery connections although I don't think it's a voltage issue. So I'll have it back together shortly (soon as I finish this Yuengling!) Last couple days it would fail pretty quickly so unless what I've done is the issue I expect more of the same. I've watched a couple of YouTube videos (most notably one from Chris Harris of Affordable Beemer Service)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xZMewBazMI

Looks pretty straightforward. Actually looking forward to it I think. Getting really tired of all this.


edit....well this didn't take long. I had hopes but BMW in their infinite wisdom had other ideas. Failed as soon as I hit the brakes. So it's coming off. Probably this weekend.

Not cleaning the rear sensor is a big mistake. Since the sensor is in the final drive is can collect whatever metal particles wear off of your bearings and gears.

That's a good that I had not thought of. I'll pull it and clean that as well. We'll see. Thanks!