BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

My rear brake has no servo and is in residual mode, and the warning light is on and the brake failure light flashing 4 HZ. Due to issues I did not ride this bike at all last year except for one short ride down the street to exercise it. When I did the lights came on and rear brake went residual. I thought it would hopefully clear up with a full system flush and new brake pads. The rear fluid was a little low, the pads were worn out, and the rear fluid was brownish. Front was not. Shame on me, but the fluid was never flushed on this 2004 with 45K miles. I thought it was too complicated so kept putting it off I have also installed a new battery in hopes that may be it but no luck. I have read quite a bit of the brake failure posts.

So, does this appear to be the servo unit failure or could it be something less? Wondering if it's worth a trip to the dealer, or if I should just do what so many have done and remove the system that is not working. Any advice?

Mine did the same last year with 60K. I had not done the flush for 4 years due to an illness and not riding. Lack of annual ABS service (whether riding or not) appears to be the death of many ABS pumps.

My personal opinion is your pump is toast. A new pump is well north of 2K, plus all the labor. As of last fall there was no rebuilding service on the iABS system either. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it's either pull the system (which I did) or spend the $$. Lots of it.

Pulling the system took me about two afternoons. Glad I did.

Wayne

Thanks for the reply Wayne. Yeah, I read your posts before, and kinda thought that's what I'm in for, but I'm just getting past the Denial Stage... Hate to pull it all out if it is just some other little thing, but seems like diagnosis is a difficult thing.

You speak highly of removal as do some others. Is the resulting braking much better than residual? Because the residual in the rear brake really sucks.

pebmr wrote:Thanks for the reply Wayne. Yeah, I read your posts before, and kinda thought that's what I'm in for, but I'm just getting past the Denial Stage... Hate to pull it all out if it is just some other little thing, but seems like diagnosis is a difficult thing.

You speak highly of removal as do some others. Is the resulting braking much better than residual? Because the residual in the rear brake really sucks.

as far as removal goes.... the braking sans abs is slightly 'better'. less 'grabby'. IE: brake power more directly matches pressure applied to the lever now. but id say as far as max performance, its mostly unchanged.

difficulty of removal, not all that bad, really, if you remain patient.

but... first.... did you flush ALL 4 of the brake fluid circuits? That was my error to begin with... didnt have a manual, and just assumed ABS 'assisted' the regular brake flow. but. it is fed by its own lines, then separate lines to the calipers. Only flushed the "out" circuit.... -that disconnect, as well as being linked between the two wheels, is what I did not like, and, coupled with the annoying whine and battery drain, is why i finally just ditched it. very cool system, that has its technical merits... but too germanly complicated for me. lol saves 12 pounds including fluid or something like that. and only cost me $1.00 for connectors.

Peels,

Yeah, I flushed all four circuits-twice. Unit to calipers and reservoirs to unit(all 6 bleeders). Wasn't happy with the first flush and my mityvac abilities, so did it all again for good measure(and battery, air filter, and fuel filter) before the tank went back on.

The residual rear brake now does not have much stopping to it. If I stomp on it really hard I can get my new grippy PR2's to just make a tiny tiny squeal, and it takes quite a while to slow down with just the rear.

I've got the new PC680 on the tender just in case it was slightly low, but I don't think that's it.

pebmr wrote:Peels,

Yeah, I flushed all four circuits-twice. Unit to calipers and reservoirs to unit(all 6 bleeders). Wasn't happy with the first flush and my mityvac abilities, so did it all again for good measure(and battery, air filter, and fuel filter) before the tank went back on.

The residual rear brake now does not have much stopping to it. If I stomp on it really hard I can get my new grippy PR2's to just make a tiny tiny squeal, and it takes quite a while to slow down with just the rear.

I've got the new PC680 on the tender just in case it was slightly low, but I don't think that's it.

hmm. well then. if you have that(especially only one brake) and the flashing light. could be RIP abs I suppose.

could try to detail clean and/or rebuild the rear caliper... but I wouldnt be too exuberant about that being the fix. I think mine had dirt in the line somewhere, but I was never able to verify that. I had the opposite. My rear brake wouldnt let go. I flushed, removed caliper cleaned to shiny new. Blew out the (now abs-less and direct pedal to caliper) line. and it works fine now.

Im with tower... sitting is bad-worse than mileage. I almost guarantee thats why mine died.

I loved the idea of abs but really hated the additional maintenance. It's a finicky system once it's get some age on it apparently. I've had to remember and slightly relearn my braking since it had been 8 hrs sine my last non abs BMW. If you decide to pull the system pm me and I'll be glad to send you my cell # and help walk you through a few things.

Thanks Wayne appreciate the offer. Perhaps then you could help me figure out how to change the antifreeze!

Hi All, the same thing has just happened to me on my Rockster 2004. The PO had left it standing against a wall for 13months and BMW York (UK) said,after quoting me £1800 + it's the worst thing to do. However , how many times has the ABS actually been used? It's the old adage i think, 'use it or lose it'!
Well my quote was on Friday last week so now I've been onto Motorworks and the parts to bypass the servo are in the post. They said it was quite simple to do but I'd need to leave the unit in situ for the brake lights, locate one relay and remove it and take the bulbs out of the earning lights.
Any more assistance would be appreciated.

pebmr wrote:Thanks Wayne appreciate the offer. Perhaps then you could help me figure out how to change the antifreeze!

Um, you'll want to take that to a dealer. WAY too complicated procedure to tackle in your garage.

ABS-ectomy: You can leave the module and not have to strip wires, which is a good option. (theres a thread on this site that is very well done) However, I chose to yank it ALL and sell the old servo altogether. Then reuse the existing brake lines. plenty of info on the web, and we're here to help.

If you choose to do so, here's the link that I followed when I did mine. be patient, and while following the wiring instructions to make the relays operate your signals...be mindful of the few brown wires that all look the same. (though that could have been a side effect of the liquid courage I was using)


http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread ... ABS-system

I used the same link although I didn't read it all fully till after I had cut the plug on the harness. As you pointed out you can use the electronics portion and keep the small module attached to the harness which will give you your brake light relay. But it was still easy to wire in a separate relay for the brakes. I still have my entire ABS module.........makes a good door stop or wheel chock for my truck!

I'm glad I pulled it.

Rode it down the street last night with battery at full voltage and same failed rear brake. Called the dealer today just to hear what they thought, sounds like they're familiar with the issue, and not much hope it could be something minor. Theyre a month out That'll give me time to play around with it but not sure what else I can do at this point. Or just remove it. I'll be commuting on the F650GS Twin in the meantime.

To my knowledge the only fix is replacing the ABS pump---big $$. Or removal which simply gives you standard brakes. No more power assist or linked brakes so you'd need to remember to use your right foot again. When I removed mine I only had to buy a simple 12v relay to trigger the brake light. I wouldn't have had to buy the relay if I'd have read thru the entire post first. Anyway pretty straightforward procedure, no special skills needed.....just take your time. If you decide to pull it let me know.......I'll be glad to lend a hand (over the phone ). Unless you want to make a trip to Va in which case I'll lend a hand!

Thanks again Wayne for the offer of support. It's against my nature to just remove something that was originally a big part of my R, but apparently I would get over that This was my first bike in about 25 years when I bought it slightly used in 2008 and I've been very happy with it until this (which I had a hand in due to lack of flushing and it sitting for a year). It's always been my daily driver, and I never really planned on selling this, so if that is true then maybe I don't need to explain an ABS-ectomy to a buyer. I'll let you guys know what happens...

Todd

pebmr wrote:Thanks again Wayne for the offer of support. It's against my nature to just remove something that was originally a big part of my R, but apparently I would get over that This was my first bike in about 25 years when I bought it slightly used in 2008 and I've been very happy with it until this (which I had a hand in due to lack of flushing and it sitting for a year). It's always been my daily driver, and I never really planned on selling this, so if that is true then maybe I don't need to explain an ABS-ectomy to a buyer. I'll let you guys know what happens...

Todd

I couldn't find anything to tell me a non abs bike was worth any less, in some cases, more.... Plus, like you, I plan on riding it until its demise, not selling. So the implied value loss, was well... LOST on me.

pebmr wrote:Thanks again Wayne for the offer of support. It's against my nature to just remove something that was originally a big part of my R, but apparently I would get over that ... never really planned on selling this, so if that is true then maybe I don't need to explain an ABS-ectomy to a buyer.

Any explanation should focus on the fact that the R1150R was available in both ABS and non-ABS variants, and that your bike has been "modified" to match non-ABS specification. Emphasize the fact that the iABS system centers around a single 10.2LB, $2650.18 component that cannot be repaired and must be replaced via additional labor cost.

sweatmark wrote:

pebmr wrote:Thanks again Wayne for the offer of support. It's against my nature to just remove something that was originally a big part of my R, but apparently I would get over that ... never really planned on selling this, so if that is true then maybe I don't need to explain an ABS-ectomy to a buyer.

Any explanation should focus on the fact that the R1150R was available in both ABS and non-ABS variants, and that your bike has been "modified" to match non-ABS specification. Emphasize the fact that the iABS system centers around a single 10.2LB, $2650.18 component that cannot be repaired and must be replaced via additional labor cost.

Last of the parts came today. ABS is gone. Canister too (was plugged solid). Thanks Sweatmark for your instructions and Towerworker for the advice. Really wasn't too bad once I accepted the failure...

Test ride down the street and all appears to be in order with new tires, brake pads, fuel and air filter, plugs, fluids, valve adjustment, throttle synch-and about 20 lbs lighter

ABS was a $1500 option for the 2004 models. The one I had in front of me in the showroom had no ABS.
$9990, and BMW had the first 5 payment option then. Took that money, and put bags, and a Pirates Lair backrest on it.

I am glad it's didn't have ABS.

pebmr wrote:Last of the parts came today. ABS is gone. Canister too (was plugged solid). Thanks Sweatmark for your instructions and Towerworker for the advice. Really wasn't too bad once I accepted the failure...

Test ride down the street and all appears to be in order with new tires, brake pads, fuel and air filter, plugs, fluids, valve adjustment, throttle synch-and about 20 lbs lighter

Very good! Now all you need to do next is change the antifreeze..................