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R1100R oil from Hell!

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:02 am
by pdoege
Right,

When I purchased my nifty used R1100R the owner said, "It needs an oil change, the last one was a while ago". The receipts should that it was about 6k miles ago, and the oil looked pretty bad.

I ordered a oil wrench and put about 400 miles on the bike while waiting for it to come in.

The wrench came in Friday, and I changed the oil on Saturday.

That was the nastiest oil that I have ever seen come out of a "living" engine. Burnt, with layers of dark brown in the black. Smelly, nasty stuff.

The real shock was the amount of sludge and metal in the bottom of the drip pan. Yikes! I remember, back in my misspent youth, mistreating a VW Bug engine to similar effect. I buttoned the VW engine back up and it lasted 150k miles after that disaster.

I plan to just ride the bike and monitor the oil. Maybe do a leakdown/compression test. Not sure that I want to know the compression right now or not!

Peter Doege

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:08 am
by darthrider
I'd change the oil & filter in about 100 miles and just start over with reasonable change intervals.
I'm a 2000 - 4000 mile change guy, depending on what I've been doing with the bike.

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:13 am
by geechie
Yeah. Dave gives good advice.

If the bike feels good under you; if it makes decent power, and has good throttle response, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. These engines are about as close to bombproof (and even idiot proof) as any.

Ride on.

George

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:07 pm
by Paper
Edited, and moved on...

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:12 pm
by Promethean
I wonder if a dash of SeaFoam to the engine oil just before the oil change helps.

I added a bit to my old KZ440 when I first bought it, ran it around the block for 10 minutes and then did the oil change. I couldn't believe the muck that came out when I drained out the old oil. A couple of oil changes later with the same treatment, the oil hardly seemed to get dirty after 2k miles. :) Might be my imagination but it worked for me.

Others more knowledgeable than I on the board may care to comment if this has any merit.

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:42 pm
by Beemeridian
4

Good advice

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 7:55 am
by pdoege
I have a cunning plan to put about 200 miles on her and then change the oil.

I need to do the plugs, airfilter, etc. seeing how bad the oil was. I'll bite the bullet and do the full series next week.

In all honesty, I bought the bike to get my feet wet again after a few years off. Being down on power is not a big deal for me right now.

Thanks for the advice.

Regards,
Peter

Update

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:18 pm
by pdoege
I changed the oil and air filter tonight. The oil looked like really expenive Amsoil with 250 miles on it. Sigh. Still, better safe than sorry.

I performed a TB sync as well. The previous owner had really cranked up the idle. It was 3.25 turns out on both TBs. 1600 rpm. I have it back to the specified 2 turns and 1100 rpm. It seems to idle happier and have fewer vibrations around 3500 rpm. I'll thrash it around tomorrow and see what it feels like then.

I plan to do the plugs and valve adjustment Saturday, and check/change the transmission/final drive fluids next week.

Thanks for the advice,
Peter Doege

Re: Good advice

Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:28 pm
by Capt. Blackadder
pdoege wrote:"I have a cunning plan..."
Image

:mrgreen: :smt023