BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Wow. I've never been so frustrated in my life. I had to put the tools down and walk away. If anyone has ever done this please help. I tried installing the brackets. The left side went on ok. I hand tightened the allen bolt and moved to the other side. There is just so little room to work with. And how the hell am I supposed to tighten all the way. That metal bracket for the head light curves right in the path of the bolt. Are there any tool to make this job easier besides the 6mm allen key. I am definitely inclined to do this but it really getting me annoyed. Please help.
Vinny

You need a 'ball end allen' to get to that bolt. Here's a picture:

http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com ... 5_18665837

Bimmer --
Installing the flyscreen bolts on the bracket to the triple clamp is very frustrating. As Touchton indicates, you can use a ball-end allen wrench - still slow going. An alternative that I used (as a result of some advice on this board) was to go to my local auto parts store and buy some regular SS bolts that I could get a box-end wrench on.

I have a ball-end wrench, and to get some torque I just slip the tip of my interchangeable screwdriver handle over the handle end of the hex key...Like a cheater bar. Since I tightened those babies up last time with some blue loctite, they haven't budged.

I used a ball end hex wrench. I got finger tight with that. Then I used a vice grip on the other end of the hex wrench to torque it some more.

It is frustrating because you have about 1 mm of movement with the ball end wrench, so you have to tighten, remove, re-insert, repeat, over and over and over and over ...

This is what I do in pics....sorry the're a bit fuzzy.

One tip is to not try and mount the brackets with the screen attached..put each backet on first and don't tighten..then mount the screen..and then tighten.

DJ

Bimmer, I also had a hell of a time installing the brackets. One thing that worked well for me was to buy another allen wrench, saw off the smaller end of the "L" and insert the now straight piece into the same size socket so I could use a regular socket handle. Worked pretty well.

But I agree, the job is still a b*tch.

An alternative that I used (as a result of some advice on this board) was to go to my local auto parts store and buy some regular SS bolts that I could get a box-end wrench on.

That may have been me that advised that because that is what I did. I switch from the sport screen in winter to the flyscreen for 3-season riding and made the switch to standard bolts. I think 13mm heads. Take the stock bolts to a nuts and bolts place for some good quality ones. And buy spares. (they are cheap!) I just lost one that backed out! Still isn't easy but the @$#%&*$#% noises from the basememt are diminished somewhat!

And cover you tank with a towel while working. A dropped wrench lands right on the tank. Don't ask how I know!

BTW, the sport screen takes longer bolts than the flyscreen.

wncbmw wrote: And cover you tank with a towel while working. A dropped wrench lands right on the tank. Don't ask how I know!

I also put a towel on the beak, and Duck tape on the black metal bracket that the wrench can contact.

<bimmer82is> what year is your RR? I was told it was quite straightforward on the earlier models but I found that it was impossible to mount the flyscreen bracket on my '04 RR according to the instructions. There just wasn't enough leeway/space to have the bolts aligned properly to screw in. I had to actually loosen the few bolts that hold the gauge/console and headlight assembly so that I could 'move' it just enough to give me enough space to line up and secure the mounting bolts. And yes, a ball end hex wrench and an adjustable wrech as in DJ's pics will make life a lot easier. HTH.

It appears that we have a consensus -- another fine example of German engineering!

Thanks guys. I will get my hands on a ball end allen. I think the original problem was getting it in perfectly straight. For some reason the left said went in like butter. I think what happened was it was not perfectly aligned when going in and it stripped a little. I refused to pull it out again so I kept on going. I will eventually get the bolt it all the way and never worry about for as long as I live. I tell you one thing, the people that design bike and cars need to work on them. I could easily come up with better parts for my bike and car.

BTW it is an 04 RR
Thanks and Happy Holidays to all!
Vinny

I just replaced my speedster windshield with the touring shield. Nice to hear I wasn't the only one with the same trouble. Left side was fine with the bolts that came with the new screen. The right side, another story. After screwing with it ( pun intended ), I decided to use the magical bolt that held the right side speedster bracket on. If i would have thought of that at the first sign of trouble, I would have that 30 mins of my life back.
My face and chest thank me for taking the time to make sure it got on.
The instructions that came with the windshield, show this meticulously clean and manicured hand using this uber long tool of wonder making the job seem seamless. I could almost see the smirk on the guys face posing for the pics.

The trick is to have a set of long T handle ball end metric allens. I bought a set of snap-ons a few years back and they are worth their weight in gold. About 100 bucks. There are others at Sears and other tool jobbers.
While your at it, a set of 1/4 drive and a set of 3/8 drive metric allens is handy too, and a speed wrench.
Roger

These are what I used:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sk19748.html

Greg

These are what I used:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sk19748.html

Greg

Greg, you spent WAY too much money to get that job done.

Finally got mine installed. The left bolt went in fairly easy. The right bolt took about 30 minutes. But, any time spent with the R is fun for me.
How far away, or how close, are you guys setting the screen from the top of the headlight? Or, if you rest it on the headlight what are using for a cushion for anti-scratch/protection.

When I had my R I found the easiest way to get the bolt in straight was to unbolt the fork tube from the headstock and lower it. As long as you keep all of the front still there's no problem getting it back in

I only bought the 5 and 6 mm wrench. Cost me 10.00 from the local tool truck.

Probably should of pointed that out

G