OK, I've been here for a few months now since I bought my R in April. I've read alot of the rants about the oil level checking issues. I dont get it. I love the sight glass versus the dipstick.
I checked it tonight when I got home:
Immediately put it on the center stand. Checked the level as soon as I got my helmet/gloves off. Just below the center dot on the glass. Went back into the garage at 5 minute intervals up to 25 minutes and the level never changed. So what is the big deal? Or am I missing something? Just seems so easy compared to other bikes I've owned with dipsticks.
Oil level checking brouhaha??
Moderator: Moderators
paroyboy - The issue is not what works for you, but what works for BMW. Different bikes trap different amounts of oil in the coolers for different periods of time. The readings between bikes will possibly give very different results using your method.
On mine, the oil in the glass changes dramatically over a one hour period, and even gets less at times. Like many others who can't be bothered with the BMW secret handshake for checking oil levels, I've learned to just check the glass a minute or so after shutdown and if I can see oil, it's ok. I know mine doesn't leak oil, doesn't burn oil, and always gets me to the next service.
At 80,000 kms, I NEVER remove the cap to top up oil between my 10,000 km servicings. Only time I have added oil in the last 60,000 kms was on my trip around Aus - 16,000 kms, hot, fast and over a three week period. I stuck in 150 millilitres to make sure it got me home because I was so far outside my 10,000 service. It didn't actually need it.
You are right - It's all a big fuss about nothing for most owners.
On mine, the oil in the glass changes dramatically over a one hour period, and even gets less at times. Like many others who can't be bothered with the BMW secret handshake for checking oil levels, I've learned to just check the glass a minute or so after shutdown and if I can see oil, it's ok. I know mine doesn't leak oil, doesn't burn oil, and always gets me to the next service.
At 80,000 kms, I NEVER remove the cap to top up oil between my 10,000 km servicings. Only time I have added oil in the last 60,000 kms was on my trip around Aus - 16,000 kms, hot, fast and over a three week period. I stuck in 150 millilitres to make sure it got me home because I was so far outside my 10,000 service. It didn't actually need it.
You are right - It's all a big fuss about nothing for most owners.
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193
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leno
Oil light
Fanning the flames here: 
I'm wondering why both cars and motorcycles have oil lights that come on, essentially, when it's too late. I've never had this happen to me but everyone I've talked to has said that if the light comes on, you've probably cooked your engine.
So, what's the point of the light? Wouldn't it make more sense to have the light come on to remind you to top off well before you're in any kind of danger zone?
I'm wondering why both cars and motorcycles have oil lights that come on, essentially, when it's too late. I've never had this happen to me but everyone I've talked to has said that if the light comes on, you've probably cooked your engine.
So, what's the point of the light? Wouldn't it make more sense to have the light come on to remind you to top off well before you're in any kind of danger zone?
Erik (a.k.a. Norseman9)
Lexington, MA
2002 R1150R (black, the only color)
Yankee Beemers
Lexington, MA
2002 R1150R (black, the only color)
Yankee Beemers
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iowabeakster
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the oil light should not be used as an indicator of how much oil is in the motor. it is instead an indicator of oil pressure . it will come on if the oil pump is failing or you are losing a main bearing, that sort of thing. when it comes on, shut it off 
of course if the motor is so low on oil the pump starts pumping air instead of oil, the light will come on, you should have added oil long before that point.
of course if the motor is so low on oil the pump starts pumping air instead of oil, the light will come on, you should have added oil long before that point.
I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
iowa is absolutely spot on - I know of one roadster who's light did come on. The bike had taken a rock hit on the oil cooler and busted the core. The rider did not know that the precious fluids were slowly leaking all over the side of the bike until the light came on.
The light is pressure, not quantity, although you eventually get to a point where the quantity is insufficient to give you pressure. If that takes too long (like not topping up oil burnoff), then you have done damage. Catch it in time (something 'broke') and all should be fine.
The light is pressure, not quantity, although you eventually get to a point where the quantity is insufficient to give you pressure. If that takes too long (like not topping up oil burnoff), then you have done damage. Catch it in time (something 'broke') and all should be fine.
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193
In getting my boxer education, I was told that they each have characteristics of their own. Some eat oil, some don't. Of those that do, it will vary...both intially, with wearing-in, and with any change from dino to synthetic.
In checking the glass, I was told to be careful, as they "HIDE" oil. IOW, after 10-15mins cool-down on the centerstand, that's likely one of the best times to check it. Compare that with what it looks like on a cold engine. If the glass is empty, put it on the SIDE stand and check again. You'll very likely see oil in the glass.
I know this, when I'm at the half-way point in the sight glass, or higher, the bike shifts a LOT smoother. When the the tranny starts feeling like a 'box-o-rocks', I know I have to add oil. So far, about 3/4 quart in 3K miles.
In checking the glass, I was told to be careful, as they "HIDE" oil. IOW, after 10-15mins cool-down on the centerstand, that's likely one of the best times to check it. Compare that with what it looks like on a cold engine. If the glass is empty, put it on the SIDE stand and check again. You'll very likely see oil in the glass.
I know this, when I'm at the half-way point in the sight glass, or higher, the bike shifts a LOT smoother. When the the tranny starts feeling like a 'box-o-rocks', I know I have to add oil. So far, about 3/4 quart in 3K miles.
I like that..bike 'hiding' it's oil..pneuby wrote: In checking the glass, I was told to be careful, as they "HIDE" oil.
mine managed to hide onto it for 3 days last month. 3 consecutive days of being low. It only let the lot drain when I added a thimbleful. Suddenly it was of the top of the glass! It's just playing with me...the bugger... I know it doesn't make sense because the tranny has no direct link to the engine oil, but I experience the same. When the oil is at de bottom of the sight glass the shifting gets hmmmpf and the engine fibrates much much more. It feels smooth again when oil level is back at center-dot .pneuby wrote:I know this, when I'm at the half-way point in the sight glass, or higher, the bike shifts a LOT smoother. When the the tranny starts feeling like a 'box-o-rocks', I know I have to add oil. So far, about 3/4 quart in 3K miles.
Greetz Arjen
'04 black'n'lime R1150R Rockster
'04 black'n'lime R1150R Rockster
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NHighCotton
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following the manual is what's recommended but, why not check it when it's idling? seems to me this would be the ideal level?
next time I drain it I'm going to check this out to see exactly how much is drained when the oil level is level in the site glass when idling a the proper rpm.
I miss the dipstick.
next time I drain it I'm going to check this out to see exactly how much is drained when the oil level is level in the site glass when idling a the proper rpm.
I miss the dipstick.
2003 R1150R (SOLD 8/07)
(9/07) 05 FJR1300
1986 R80RT
1974 R90s antique (on the road again)
(9/07) 05 FJR1300
1986 R80RT
1974 R90s antique (on the road again)
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cworley5150
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You do not want to go by the oil level when the bike is idling. The oil is circulating throughout the lubrication system and it will be much lower than when the bike has been sitting with engine off for a while. If you add oil until you see it in the sight glass while idling, you will seriously over fill the crankcase. Not good.NHighCotton wrote:following the manual is what's recommended but, why not check it when it's idling? seems to me this would be the ideal level?
next time I drain it I'm going to check this out to see exactly how much is drained when the oil level is level in the site glass when idling a the proper rpm.
I miss the dipstick.
No matter where you go, there you are.
Boxers Rule! Umm. . . the bikes, not the underwear.
Boxers Rule! Umm. . . the bikes, not the underwear.
That's right, it doesn't make sense, LOL.Arjen wrote:I know it doesn't make sense because the tranny has no direct link to the engine oil, but I experience the same. When the oil is at de bottom of the sight glass the shifting gets hmmmpf and the engine fibrates much much more. It feels smooth again when oil level is back at center-dot .pneuby wrote:I know this, when I'm at the half-way point in the sight glass, or higher, the bike shifts a LOT smoother. When the the tranny starts feeling like a 'box-o-rocks', I know I have to add oil. So far, about 3/4 quart in 3K miles.
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Beemer1150
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Sorry to be a bit late in on this one - only just joined.
I've had my '03 R for over a year and and 10,000 miles (total mileage now 12,600) and I still haven't fathomed out exactly what it's up to.
It burns some oil, sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It hides some oil, sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. The only way you can be certain is to add a tiny amount - then it releases all its hidden reserves and goes way over the top of the sight glass. Dammit!
If I keep my running exactly the same (commuting) the level stays fairly constant, it's when I change that routine that things go haywire
My pet theory is that it could be something to do with engine (and to a degree ambient) temperature - how soon the thermostats close and seal off the coolers and how much is up there when they do.
Anyway, somewhere around the dot is fine by me, and I won't add any oil now until it's hovered around the bottom of the window for a while!
I've had my '03 R for over a year and and 10,000 miles (total mileage now 12,600) and I still haven't fathomed out exactly what it's up to.
It burns some oil, sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It hides some oil, sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. The only way you can be certain is to add a tiny amount - then it releases all its hidden reserves and goes way over the top of the sight glass. Dammit!
If I keep my running exactly the same (commuting) the level stays fairly constant, it's when I change that routine that things go haywire
My pet theory is that it could be something to do with engine (and to a degree ambient) temperature - how soon the thermostats close and seal off the coolers and how much is up there when they do.
Anyway, somewhere around the dot is fine by me, and I won't add any oil now until it's hovered around the bottom of the window for a while!