I recently installed the Centech under my tank on top of the air filter box.
I currently have it connected to the battery so that it is always hot. What I'd like to do however is have it on only when the bike is running.
Any ideas what wire is switched and easy to access? I rather not go poking around trying to find a switched wire if there is one some of you have found. NOTE : I already tried the tail light wire (via a relay) however I have a Kisan Signalminder attached to it so it - (the Centech) is only switched on when the brake is applied for some strange reason Don't know why really but anyway, I'd rather find another wire.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks!
Last edited by taosports on Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I have mine wired hot as well. I'm no electrical whiz by any stretch, but I think the combined amperage draw on the box (if you have several things going) would be too much for any of the key-on wires. Someone else has got to chime in here who can tell you more.
Thanks Boxer, but I'll be using a relay so it shouldn't be a problem. The Centech (and all the farkles attached) will still draw power directly from the battery.
I recently added a relay to my fuse panel (stored in my tank bag). The power to the relay was taken from the license plate light. The relay sits inside the existing fuse box, in an empty slot. Now, all of my accessories are powered with the key. It was pretty easy to install/wire the relay.
I 'think' the light green wire running into the headlight socket is a switched power low beam (always on) circuit. Maybe green w/ white stripe? Maybe I should just stop thinking.
Nice install Mike on the Centech. Mounting bracket looks custom. I need to get a Centech for the Rockster. My radar, Autocom and Zumo are wired to my tail light with in-line fuses.
I had to install something similar to the Centech called Tourtech Can Bus Helper on the K12S to power all the toys.
I know this isn't the case for this thread, but should you get a Can-Bus bike like the 1200 line, a great place to put your relay trigger wire is the accessory outlet since it stays on for a short time after you shut off the bike. Keeps your add ons hot for a little while, kinda handy at times.
taosports wrote:
ProductUser...where did you access the license plate light?
I ran a fish wire (e.g., solid core 14 gauage wire I had laying around) to the license plate light from the right side of the bike. It took a few minutes to get the fish wire to the license plate light housing. Once there, I tapped into the wire leading to the light.
I felt that this was a better choice, in my particular application, than tapping into the brake light power wires.
taosports wrote:
ProductUser...where did you access the license plate light?
I ran a fish wire (e.g., solid core 14 gauage wire I had laying around) to the license plate light from the right side of the bike. It took a few minutes to get the fish wire to the license plate light housing. Once there, I tapped into the wire leading to the light.
I felt that this was a better choice, in my particular application, than tapping into the brake light power wires.
ProductUser
The license plate light is also IMO the best place to get power for LED Running Lights that mount in the turn signal housings. Forget the brake light wires for several reasons.
The (red) park lamp also goes on with the key in the "Park" position, giving you secure engine off power. The white license plate illumination light does not come on in the park position but does work with the engine running. Take your pick of these power wires to power your relay's coil.
I just installed the Centech using the picture shown above and the mounting location worked out nicely. I used a piece of thick plastic and heat formed it to the angle needed. For the ignition relay I tapped off the first fuse in the fuse box to energize the relay when the key is turned on.
Thanks for the info Cadhopper. I'll try the same connection.
BTW, I added a waterproof nylon flap that is attached with velcro to the underside lip of the gas tank. It covers the Centech and prevents rain from dripping off the tank onto the fuseblock.
The flap is a good idea. I was thinking yesterday on how to water proof the fuse box. I was going to go to Radio Shack and see if they had a project box that might hold the fuse box and relay.
Some type of cover for the AP-1 is good idea. We had a problem with battery discharging last winter on my wife's Roadster, equipped with AP-1 panel that connects directly to battey via big Anderson snap connector. Battery charging attempts proved fruitless until I disconnected the AP-1 and we dried out the underseat area... likely got wet during bike cleaning, with AP-1 sitting directly under the seat/gas tank interface.
My Rockster finally gets its AP-1 as part of this winter's bike electricals project (perfect garage activity during rainy Oregon winter). Have to remember to look for a cover solution.
Don't know why really but anyway, I'd rather find another wire. 
