Parts is Parts!

[Boxer]

I woke up this morning, stretched, and stepped outside to the garage to check on the Dominatrix...!


OH!NO! Someone has stolen my lovely black steed...And left only the gas tank to taunt me.
I went back inside to call the BMW police and downstairs in the "Farting" room I found my baby all stripped down and waiting on a massage of sorts.


I managed to finish getting her stripped down for some much needed maintenance and replacement parts. After a most casual pace and making a trip to the hardware store for a 15mm socket I was able to extricate the old 70K mile front shock from its 5 year position and replace with a comparatively "new" front shock. I actually have two "new" front shocks and the one I chose to install first is a used Rockster shock I bought several months ago with 10K miles on it. Its only about 1/2" shorter than the original so I'll most likely feel a slightly different riding position when I get back on the road. The other front shock I have was donated to me by a very kind individual on this board and I will swap out the shorter Rockster shock when I get 20K more miles on it.

Tomorrow brings another day, and I turn my attention to the rear end. My plan is to install a "new" rear shock, but before I do I will take off the clutch slave cylinder and clean it out good. If I see it needs a new one, I'll have to wait until Monday to go buy one.
Brakes, bleeding and/or rebuilding, with new pads, are also on the agenda as is a new fuel filter since I have that blasted tank off.
If I still have time, and chutzpah left, once I get that far I want to take off the final drive and just take it in for a new main bearing replacement as well as pivot bearings.
Rob, if you read this, give me a call. I wouldn't mind letting you do that bearing change out for your customary fee. I know it will be done in a most excellent fashion.

[Biff's R]

Holy cow Phil.

Let me know what you think of the front Rockster shock.

[Boxer]

Can someone direct me to the thread where Robbie made some alterations to the old cam chain tensioner on the right side! I want to do that tomorrow.

[GypsyRR]

[quote=\"Boxer\"]Can someone direct me to the thread where Robbie made some alterations to the old cam chain tensioner on the right side! I want to do that tomorrow.[/quote]
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... +tensioner

[OU812]

Phil, is that IN your house?

[wncbmw]

dang Phil - it looks like someone put a grenade under your gas tank! I would sure panic to see my bike in that many pieces!

70,000 out of a shock! It will feel like a new bike when (if ) you get it back together! You have till May to get it ready for the Bash!

[CycleRob]

Boxer,

First, I gotta rub it in. I rode my bike 30 miles to Walgreens yesterday and 2-up we went double that mileage today. Both days just exceeded 60F (15.5C). Today's ride was to Whole Foods in Duluth leaving at 5:10 pm for their in-store fish-n-chips dinner. Excellent food, nice ride. 2 Widder vests, and heated grips made it so. We wore the ski overpants for the way back in 58F after dark. When we got home, Ann said she got a chill FROM THE STORE'S CHILLY AIR CONDITIONING !!!!

I have to take my clutch slave out for take apart cleaning too and I'm waiting for another round of bad weather and fewer home chores. Tomorrow I'm doing laundry, splitting Oak firewood and maybe cooking supper. Not looking forward to taking so many things apart just to raise the frame for slave removal access. The new R1200R has no such issue. It's in the open.

For the RIGHT side tensioner, I added an Allen headed 6mm short bolt with the threads inside the spring on the stationary Aluminum end (not the piston). The height of the bolthead compresses the old sacked spring just enough to matter.

Will call you tomorrow about 6:30PM unless CRS disease makes me forget. You know what that's like!!

.

[boxermania]

Darn Boxer......I didn't know you had it in you......Kudos for being so daring. My sincere appologies for making fun of your 70K mile shocks......

You must have seen the pics of my bike "state of flux" while it was being worked on....but I digress.

Never thought about the Rockster shock to replace the original R.....as a matter of fact I think you will find the end result most pleasing, since you are a good and experienced rider. Being 1/2" short will in essence lower your front end, transfering some additional weight to the front. This will sharpen the turn in, just like adding the GS locating bar to the rear, with the exception that the rear of the bike will not be higher. Neat......

I would definitely ask CycleRob for assistance on the final drive work, First, he is fairly close to your place, Second, the work is not that dificult but tedious and Third and the most important item is why don't you guys take some pics to document the repair for the benefit of the board members. To show you my good nature I will provide the spirits for the occasion if you guys make it happen......let me know what to send and where......for real.

Good luck......

[Beemeridian]

Don't forget to adjust your swing arm play

[boxermania]

Darn Boxer......I didn't know you had it in you......Kudos for being so daring. My sincere appologies for making fun of your 70K mile shocks......

You must have seen the pics of my bike "state of flux" while it was being worked on....



but I digress.

Never thought about the Rockster shock to replace the original R.....as a matter of fact I think you will find the end result most pleasing, since you are a good and experienced rider. Being 1/2" short will in essence lower your front end, transfering some additional weight to the front. This will sharpen the turn in, just like adding the GS locating bar to the rear, with the exception that the rear of the bike will not be higher. Neat......

I would definitely ask CycleRob for assistance on the final drive work, First, he is fairly close to your place, Second, the work is not that dificult but tedious and Third and the most important item is why don't you guys take some pics to document the repair for the benefit of the board members. To show you my good nature I will provide the spirits for the occasion if you guys make it happen......let me know what to send and where......for real.

Good luck......

[Boxer]

Okay, this morning brought renewed vigor and excitement for the day's mechanical chores. I got right down to it and removed the rear shock with less effort than I anticipated. The heat applied to the bottom connector simplified it considerably. After doing that I proceeded to remove the cat converter and the front headers as well, to give me better access to the clutch slave at the rear and to facilitate the mod to the right side tensioner. The headers have not been off for over 6 years and 70K miles! So I applied some "Liquid Wrench" to "rusty" areas and after getting the cat converter detached, it gave me some added play to wiggle the header pipe. However, to get it pulled free properly I had to reattach the cat box with the 2 bolts down by the center stand then go to the front and pull/wiggle...wiggle/pull on the header pipes. FINALLY! It came free. Now back to the rear. After re-detaching the cat box I just let it lean with the O2 sensor still attached and proceeded to examine my options for the clutch slave cylinder.
HOLY CRAP! I managed to get up in there with my hex wrench and take out the 3 bolts holding that puppy in, but now I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to detach the banjo connectors coming from the master cylinder and the one going to the bleed nipple. I KNOW you are supposed to have to raise the frame slightly to do this, but my manual only mentions having to do that with the R1100S, and for the life of me, I can't see where raising any part of the frame will help me here. I feel kind of stupid because I've passed on that info many times without ever having done this myself.
At any rate, I'll speak with Rob this evening and get some input from him. If anyone has done this, please enlighten me as to specific frame moving procedures.

Also, what are the dangers of leaving the clutch lines open after they are detached from the slave...Short of losing fluid, that is. My Haynes manual says they should be clamped or plugged someway or simple covered over with plastic wrap. I KNOW it goes without saying that the DOT 4 fluid is highly caustic and should not be allowed to drip on anything, but my concern is fluid oozing out and sucking air in from the other end.

[boxermania]

Boxer, can't help ypou with the clutch slave cylinder since I never did anything other than renewing the fluid. I would have disconected the banjo at the cylinder and allowed the fluid to drain in a container. Then cover the end of the hose well with a rage and duct tape to soak whatever little was left in the line. That way you eliminate any paint loss due to the brake fluid attacking the paint and the system will be ready for a shot of new fluid and the subsequent bleeding.

If yoou hav problems with the bleeding rotate the handlebars to the right so the clutch master cylinder is high and the entarpped air will flow into the reservoir.

Good luck.......

[Boxer]

Okay Beemeridian, I must now join the ranks of the FUBAR Commandos. I tell you what, if I knew what to do it would be different, but I have three different manuals and each of them give different instructions on this crap.

After comparing all three I decided to go ahead and loosen the two footpeg plates and take out the bolt holding the rear end of the frame in anticipation of getting the gasket and new washers tomorrow. This is where it gets fuzzy. The rear frame crossbar underneath supposedly has to be removed and the frame lifted up to access the tops of the banjo connections on the slave cylinder. Unbeknownst to them I already have access to those banjo connectors, the hard way, but I wanted to do it by the book so I could re-install eveything the way its supposed to be before I start the bleeding process.

Well, the left rear frame bolt came out easily and I moved to the right side. I noticed immediately that something was very different. Then I noticed underneath as I turned the bolt, the entire rod was turning with it. Ah! But that's not all. Apparently there are two small "clamping" screws that have a torque of 9NM and from all outward signs appear to possibly hold the rod underneath while the right bolt is extracted. Even with heat applied, the bolt still would not give up the ghost. I even placed a box end wrench on two flats of the bar underneath (since that is what those flats appeared to be for) so it would not turn. I just ended up stripping the TORX head out on the frame bolt and the bolt is still stuck as tight as ever.


Hopefully Robbie will call me this evening. This really pisses me off.
Tomorrow I'm taking my starter up to a place in Cumming to see if they can rebuild it for me. While I'm out I'll go fetch the slave cylinder gasket and new banjo connector washers. If anyone has any advice on this procedure please feel free to offer it.
I keep hearing about this BMW loctite crap and now I've experienced the wrath of it myself.

[Beemeridian]

76

[Boxer]

The slave unit is out and looks to be in pretty good shape. Some DOT 4 ran out as I took off the connection from the master cylinder, but I just snaked the line up and out and hung it up by the master cylinder with a plastic covering wrapped in paper towel. Nothing leaking so far and the level in the master cylinder remains the same.
Tomorrow I will take the slave apart and clean it out good. If it fails to go back together, or if I find something that looks bad, I'll just buy a new one when I go to get the washers and gasket.

My main problem continues to be the rear main frame bolt binding on the loctite. It came out some, but is stripped really good. I have Dremeled a slot per Dave's suggestion and tomorrow will attack it again with a big screwdriver and the heat gun. I guess I'll have to buy another one of those bolts too, in case I get the stripped one out.

Parts is parts.

[Boxer]

In the manual in the section on removing and replacing the slave cylinder it says to remove the bolts holding the rear main frame at two places: the rear at the footpeg plates and at the front. But I can't figure out what the following means. See diagram in photo of the directions. Can someone enlighten me?

[OU812]

Phil, if I only did not flunk English x5.

[Boxer]

Okay, problem solved. In speaking to Rob on the phone he directed my attention to the front frame member. I discovered to my surprise and glee that the front tubular frame member is attached at 2 places. The top one is a nut and the bottom one is a hex head bolt.
See my crude but swiftly drawn diagram.


The manual says to remove the main one (bottom) and only loosen the strut one (top). This is so the frame can tilt up on the pivot after also removing the rear bolts which are "super" glued by some Kraut with way too much loctite on his hands.
All has now become clear, thanks yet again to Cyclerob.

[CycleRob]

My phone call with Boxer was a good news / bad news conversation while I ate supper. I even exchanged pleasantries with Phil's wife Jenny who's almost fully recovered from her infamous Ozark Bash off road excursion.

First the Good News: Phil just revealed you don't have to remove the transmission frame crossbar bar and elevate the frame to remove the clutch slave. It does NOT block removal of the slave. It only makes it easier. You will need a lot of patience though.

Now the Bad News: I think I know why the right side bolt of the transmission crossbar was so hard to remove. When changing fork springs on Japanese bikes you can do it with the forktubes still in place. loosening the fork cap on many bikes is only possible if you loosen the top tree's fork pinchbolts first. Yes, the outer steel tube's female threads are actually compressed enough by the 8mm x 1.25mm threaded pinchbolt that they grab tightly to the capbolt's male threads and you cannot loosen it. That same thread clamping action + Red Loctite very likely caused Boxer's frozen bolt. What then? That's easy. Loosen the pinchbolts first. Fully loosen the right side bolt. Tighten the pinchbolts, then remove the left side bolt. I bet you won't have any problems.

I'll be removing my slave sooner than I thought !! I have a plan to drill and tap a drain hole in the lowest part of the slave's housing for my homemade weephole drain fitting. Locating the weephole will be critical . . . but easy. Then, a length of clear tubing to the right footpeg gang-of-tubes cluster will finish it. Phil, when you bring the FD over for the bearing change bring the clutch slave(s) (with the installed lowpoint marked) too. It will either be the 1st or 2nd one I modify. The workshop is OPEN.

[barno68]

What great timing... I join the forum and someone else is working the same project. Thanks for the hand drawing, I was looking for the same two bolts this afternoon

Brent