I needed to add it because I have one farkle too many for patch work--the Zumo tipped the scale.
I wanted the power to the Centech to be switched and I wanted a very clean install with minimal wiring and minimal tie wraps.
I connected a Gerbing thermostat for my vest liner, Motolights, Sirius starmate radio, Garman Zumo and and extra accessory plug--standard auto size for whatever, maybe the little air pump I carry.
Many questions needed answering:
Could I eliminate the inline fuses with the centech-----consensus wisdom-------------yes
Could I eliminate the relay that came with the motolights------a call to motolights referred me to Daytona BMW that at first said they didn't know, but when I asked in a different way I got the answer "I don't see why that wouldn't work." so, the answer there was Yes. The rephrased question was: Can I just solder the two positives together and the two negatives together, put and inline switch on the negative side and connect that to the centech?
I wanted switched power to the Centech, what is the best source--Three answers emerged, but I'll bet there are lots of other options. The Parking light and the tail light wire (NOT the brake light wire). And the third was a fuse tap onto fuse #2.
I chose the Parking light wire because it would result in a cleaner install, with NO wire running to the back of the bike, and no extra wire running out of the OEM fuse box--I was real anal about that, maybe a little neurotic about it, because no matter how clean it was I would still know. Kind of like cleaning under and behind the sofa?
But, no one really knew which wire this was; the Clymer's was somewhat helpful, and the BMWST.com forum was helpful, but it appears the wiring colors may be different on the RT
The corollary to that question was is there a source of switched power that cuts off during engagement of the starter, so that power meant for the started is not sucked by the farkles?
There may be, but the Parking light and the Tail light may not be it. They flicker during a start, but do they lose power, I don't know. At any rate, the Gerbing will not be on during a start, and on the rare very cold start down here, I will switch off the motolights as I put the switch in line on the negative lead.
So, I pulled the tank, and there is the big orange connector that holds the parking light wire, but which one. You have to remove it to mess with it. This is it.
To remove it: unplug the connector on top of it--the black piggy-backed one. Underneath it--between the black connector and the orange one, there is a little slide locking device that holds it onto the orange one. you'll need a toothpick or something that reaches in there to move it to the side and then it slides off. The orange one has a similar lock under it. it is a little tricky.
Long story short, it is the gray wire---there are 4, red, green, gray and light green-fatter. I determined this by connecting the red--that's power and then in turn connected the others one at a time. The grey one illuminated the parking light AND the tail light.
That's where the tap went. The tap is the blue wire from the easternbeaver wiring kit.
Incidentally, I bought the AP1 from EasternBeaver.com --Jim Davis there and I bought the wiring kit from them also. I cannot speak highly enough about the customer service from Jim and the quality of the wiring kit. Both were top notch and well worth the very nominal premium involved (and I am not sure there was one). I received the item VERY quickly (from Japan!) and I had to contact Jim a few times with some of the above questions--he always responded very quickly.
So Then what was left was to pass the wires, neatly and make connections, and stash the stuff.
That purple casing is part of an anesthesia circuit and everything fit in very well. It will protect and keep wires form being pinched by the tank. In addition, it is fire retardant.
this one shows the path of the purple tubing, the battery connections not yet made.
in this one you can see the motolight lead, leaving the bundle to go to the right side and then to the lights.
here you can see the final install. The relocated diagnostic plug with mod per Cyclerob is visible and reachable. The diode and the inline fuse for the centech are velcro'd against the metal jacket of the battery and the extra cable is tucked above it. If I need to reach it, they can be pulled free easily. The leads for the farkles mostly exit on the left except for the accessory plug that I have going to the right. I made that lead about a foot long and velcro'd it under the rear seat- I may put some shrink tubing on it for neatness, but it's not too bad now
and with the tank back on
and everything works! reset the motronic and haven't had a chance to ride Her yet.
Hope this helps someone out there
John
plud the easternbeaver site makes interesting reading.