Looking to Buy an 1150 - Questions

[MMH]

I'm beginning to look for an 1150, primarily as a commuter. MPG is my motivator, but I will want to have some fun w/ my high mpg vehice. My current regiment is to drive 200 miles Monday, work the week, and drive back home Friday (500 miles per week). Some Questions:

Am I best off with a R1150R, an RS. Seems like an RS would be better, but availability & price may be an issue. What about an RT? Obvously better on the touring side, but may not be enough 'sport' for me. I like the looks of a naked bike better anyway. Would I be better off paying for less for a R1150R w/ no options, or get one w/ a winshield, luggage bags, etc. How much does this stuff go for if I buy separate (is used stuff out there)?

How do prices listed on cycle trader compare to what the bikes can be really be bought for? Seems like a stripped down R1150R goes for $6K or so and one with luggagebags, winshield, etc. is closer $9K. Is buying from a dealer worth the premium?

What years are the best ones to look for? When were the major design changes made? What about milage. What is considered high milage? Should high milage be stayed away from, or how much lower should the price be.

Finally, what is the cost of all weather year-round riding gear?

[boxermania]

Many questions, many options......if you browse the postings you will probably find 90% of what you are looking for, but here is my say.

MPG will depend on cruising speed and load, anything at slab speeds expect ~ 38-42 mpg, side roads and lesser speeds, closer to 46-50 irregardless of the model.

The least expensive and best all around would be the R1150R and they are all about the same in performance any distinction will be rider dependent.

For your planned ussage you will definitely need a screen and the bags, it is best purchasing the bike with them on as it will save you the effort, however they can very well be purchased afterwards, either from forums like this one or Ebay.

The price will be year dependent and I suggest the newest model that you can afford as if you decide to sell it it will be easier to do than an older model, do note that the BMW R259 models (4 valve heads, different displacements, since 1994) do enjoy a fairly active market.

Mileage is not much of an issue as the engines are fairly robust, 100K+ quite attainable before having to do some head work. however I would look for a bike that was serviced, mind you that a lot of the owmers learn to do their own service, as it is fairly simple.

Regarding gear, I will have to defer to the long distance riders on this forum, as I'm basically cheap, however, don't cheapen out on helmet, jacket, a breathable and an insulated one and riding gloves.

Hope this helps and show us some pics of what you ultimately purchase.....

[Biff's R]

If you want to look at riding gear, look at the Teknic Closeouts on http://www.ironpony.com You can spend anywhere from $300-$2000 on riding gear. It just depends on what you like, and what fits.

Boxermania is pretty much dead on on the bike info.

[challey]

When were the major design changes made?

To add to what Boxermania said, BMW changed the R1150R to a twin spark configuration in 2004 for US modesls (2003 for the rest of the world), allegedly to address emissions concerns and "surging" issues with the single spark engine. Many, maybe even most, single sparks did not have the dreaded surge problem. My 2003 for instance has never surged and I can get over 50mpg (US gallons) on long trips, dropping to the mid-thirties around town.

I'm not sure why you'd be considering the RS for long commuting - the RT would be more suitable and would eliminate the need for you to add wind protection and bags.

Charlie

[towerworker]

I had an 03 (single spark) that I bought new in 03. Put 42k on it before totaling it in an accident. Pretty much trouble free and averaged around 50mpg. Highest I ever got was 56 and lowest around 42. I ran hi-test.

I now have a dual spark 04 but haven't seen that kind of milage yet. Seems to be in the mid 40's. Have only had it a few months.

Maintenance is easy and relatively simple and there is alot of help available on this board. It seems like I have seen good bikes and reasonable prices both from private owners and dealers alike.

I agree totally with Boxermania on gear. You need the right stuff. A good helmet need not cost alot though. Some of the safest out there are under $100. A good protective jacket, pants and gloves are of paramount importance. A bike is no place for shorts and sneakers!

Wayne

[MikeCam]

MPG varies between 36-42 mpg for most users; runs okay on some 87 octane blends, best on 89-91 octane, some prefer 93 octane (R+M/2). Some report getting 45-55 mpg. True for all 1150 models.

200 mile commute? What kind of roads? All highway and Interstate? That favors the RS and RT. Back roads/city streets? Favors the Roadster/Rockster

For all models: non-ABS, non-servo assist, non-linked braking system. Features great brakes, good feel and excellent performance.
OR Servo-assisted, ABS partially linked (front lever activates all brakes), rear is rear only) provide 35% more stopping power at the expense of feel. Expensive to repair when the pump fails (not enough data to know when that is, but some as early as 24K miles). More difficult to bleed.
For high/low mileage comparison use 6000 miles per year as a multiplier. Dealer maintained is not necessarily a better thing. Many dealer service techs are sloppy. A well maintained, user serviced bike, even without printed records, is an equally good value. BUT you have to judge the seller's credibility yourself.

R1150R - naked standard. Variety of windscreens available; luggage, hand guards, other accessories and it's a sport tourer lite. Lightest and most nimble version. Same 85 hp and 72 ft lbs torque as GS model. Most feature heated hand grips and accessory socket as a standard feature - or they should have these items. Without Heated hand grips, I'd lower the price by $250 - it is not readily added.

Base resale prices: 2002 $4500 (42,000 miles). 2003 $5500 (36,000 miles). 2004 (dual spark) $6500 (30,000 miles). 2005 $7500 (24,000 miles).

Add $500 for ABS. $300-500 for system cases. $100-250 for windscreen (if it suits you). Non-value added farkles - engine guards, luggage rack, hand guards, signalminder, PIAA lights, Motolights, hyperlights, bar backs, peg lowering, aftermarket pipes, paralever arms, seats, etc. While nice options, they add little or no value for resale unless they suit you perfectly. Many sellers remove these and sell them separately.
Anytime mechanical/electrical add-ons are involved, I believe it diminishes value since the stock configuration/wiring harness has been compromised. Ohlins shocks might be worth a bit of a premium but how do you know what the seller has done to them? A good quality aftermarket seat is worth some cash if it is the one you like, otherwise, go stock.

For low mileage models in stock form consider condition, paint/finish, maintenance records on hand, and overall impression it has on you when deciding to pay higher prices. Ferro models are only slightly more valuable. Rockster models as well. Dealer CPO with extended warranty is worth a $500-1000 premium if the dealer will stand behind the work and is close enough to do it. Sellers in the West ask too much for their old bikes. Sellers in the south, the mid-west, and north plains are more practical. East Coast sellers are a mixed bag. Avoid any bike that has ever been wheelied, stoppied, or dropped. There are plenty out there that have not.

an RS - sport tourer. Better weather protection yet still nimble. Fewer options but bags and aftermarket screens are available. Tuned to 95 hp and 74 ft lbs. Almost all include heated hand grips and ABS standard; bags as an option. Worth $1000-2000 more than a comparable Roadster. Semi-rare. Good values out there. Say a 2002 for $6500 and a 2004 for $8500-9500. Low mileage versions seem the norm.

an RT - tourer. Noticeably heavier and features fully linked front-rear brakes (a negative feature). Most comfortable for long distances. More expensive to maintain. Same used pricing options as RS. These are a dime a dozen right now. Most owners heavily accessorized and that is hard to accept unless the options are exactly what you want.

What years are the best ones to look for?

2002-2003 single spark models; good color options. Starting to need repairs. Things that fail (regardless of mileage) - clutch slave cylinders, ABS pumps, front wiring harness to heated grips, ignition switch, lights, rear main seals. Things that scare people but do not always fail - final drives, splines, transmissions. Engines are simple, bullet-proof.

2004-2005 dual spark models; some different color options. Good values abound. So do overpriced versions. The dual spark does not demand a premium price but the fuel mapping was also changed for the better. I think a 2004 is probably the better value out there right now.

When were the major design changes made? Only major design change is the Rockster version 2003-2004. Minor changes include the dual spark versions, color options, fuel mapping, stainless steel brake hoses, etc.

Should high milage be stayed away from, or how much lower should the price be? High mileage versions demand a price reduction but are good values. Anything over 50,000 miles, I'd suggest a $150 discount for every 6000 miles over optimum (see above). If the seller has repaired/replaced the ABS pump, clutch slave cylinder, rear main seal or similar then adjust accordingly.

Finally, what is the cost of all weather year-round riding gear? $750-1000 for a good suit, boots, helmet, and gloves.

[raybark]

I bought a 2004 R1150R with 12k miles on it last summer, and I have a similar 500 mile/week commute. I do the to-work part on the Penna Turnpike or "city" roads, depending upon my mood and the time constraints, and the return trip via country roads so I can really enjoy myself. Of course, that return trip also tends to take at least 2 hours and adds considerably to the weekly mileage total.

By bike came with the touring shield (I have since added a Laminar Lip for the turnpike), hard bags, and a Throttlemeister. I have lowered the pegs (my knees are too old and worn from soccer refereeing), but if you are considering an RS, the riding position will be of no issue. it really isn't all that bad for me either, it's just a preference thing.

Overall, I average between 45 and 48 mpg, and the bike is great at being both smooth and sporty through the twisties.

I think one of the better places to look for pricing is MCN, and I think it's worth looking at the IBMWR Marketplace for bikes, as you can be pretty sure the bikes there are as advertised and well cared-for.

As far as gear is concerned, I really like the Olympia stuff. I have the Airglide 2 jacket & pants, and they were nice and cool last August and September, and with the liners, very comfortable until the morning temps were close to freezing - at which point I opt for the cage, anyway.

[machew01]

MMH,

You are asking all the right questions. With a minimal amount of research aimed at getting your questions answered, you will be able to select just the right bike for you. You've already been given some good information from some of the board members here, especially that Cam Farmer person. It doesn't matter whether you choose an RR, an RS, or an RT. When you select a bike based on the answers to the questions you have posed (and not other people's opinions), you will have selected the perfect bike for you. And we will expect photos.

By the way, what kinds of weather extremes might you encounter on this 200 mile commute? For crash protection combined with all weather condition protection, the Aerostich riding suits are a great value.

mac

[Buckeye Beemer]

MMH, I know where you are coming from. I just bought a 2004 R1150R; has system bags, windshield, heated grips. Very nice bike, had little mileage and does not seem prone to surging. I have been commuting (when I can) on a 93 K1100RS 200 miles a week. Things I have noted in the little riding I have been able to do on the 50R are lack of a gas gauge. The roadster will be more nimble but you will be a little more exposed.

For me I would look for a 2004 50RS. Would be a nice compromise between the extra weight, more power, but more protection. I'm weird...I have always liked the 50RS but have read disparaging remarks on the bike.

Good luck...whatever you find should be a fun machine to ride.

[MMH]

By the way, what kinds of weather extremes might you encounter on this 200 mile commute? For crash protection combined with all weather condition protection, the Aerostich riding suits are a great value.

mac

Do not expect severe weather extremes. Would be commuting from Northern VA to Pittsburgh, May thru November. So would get some cold rain, but no snow.

[mcollect]

I would like to second the Olympia Clothing. I live in Garrett county and ride the roads you will be riding. The AST jacket is great for that area as the temps change going from the Highlands to the Peidmont and to the Coastal Plain drastically. With the AST I can ride in 30's with the liner to the 90's with vents open. As you know, it can rain like all get out on the Highlands and I have never been wet under the Olympias. BTW the ranger pants are only good to the 80 degree mark after that too hot, unless on the slab.