I've killed it!!

[digga]

I've had the tank off to fit a HID headlamp kit...now the bike won't start

fuel lines attached, vents connected, fuel pump wiring connected..the engine turns but thats about it!! it does try to start, but coughs and farts and thats about it

looks as though i have to spend time in the garage

[sweatmark]

Double sure that the fuel line quick connects are fully engaged?
Could fuel lines be swapped? (I can't remember offhand if the OE quick connects have reveres gender for the supply versus return lines)
You're in UK so no fuel vapor cannister hoses to address, just the vent and overflow, right?
Can you hear the fuel pump when ignition is switched to ON?
Any chance that the HID modification could have impacted necessary circuits?

[Boxer]

Was the battery disconnected? If so, try resetting the motronic by switching the ignition on (but not starting the bike) and open the throttle to full open twice then turn off the ignition. Also you may have inadvertantly pulled a throttle cable up out of the ferule to the TB pulley. Make sure that is seated back in place on both sides. Sounds like you may have switched vent tubes under the tank also.

Take the tank off and carefully reinstall making sure of each step as you go. A rubber tube underneath may be kinked/pinched also.

[digga]

Boxer nails it !!!!

i pulled the centech fuse controlling the HID...no change

Removed the tank again, double checked connections..all A~OK

Checked the electrical connections for the fuel pump .. slight white deposits but nothing major, but cleaned male and female sides anyway..

It was then i noticed the throttle cable sat on the ferrule not IN the ferrule
flicked it off the rim and into its rightful place it sank
doubled checked the vents and any other connections that may have been disturbed, but i had a feeling i need'nt bother.

Tank on, connected and vented up..Qd's together (this is where i must have caught the cable and lifted it out of its place when i split them the first time!)

Ignition on, did the throttle full on a couple of times just in case hit the GO button and

whoopee!!

So that i don't suffer that problem again, i put a 'dob' of silicon 'sikaflec' sealant on the cable outer and the knurled ferrule jobs good to go.

PS the HID works a treat

Thanks for the pointers guys

[CycleRob]

The cable getting pulled out of the adjuster ferrule happens a lot. It's just a little too tight and doesn't have any slack. When you are struggling with the fueline QD's, you inadvertantly tug it out of it's socket. Then, the right cylinder is at ~20% open throttle with the TPS, on the left cylinder TB, only authorizing idle speed fuel injection. Net result: "it does try to start, but coughs and farts and thats about it".

We need to update the OilHead 10 Commandments to include:
11. After removing/replacing the fueltank, be sure the right side TB throttle cable is inside the adjuster ferrule.

.

[scottybooj]

PIC PIC PIC!!!!

What the frush is a ferule?

[gregor]

It's the opposite of a spigot.

[fallingpines]

So now that 'it's alive', how do you like the HID light? I sure would love to have some more light, mind if I ask where did you get it and how much?

[rdsmith3]

Yes, we need more info on the HID lights, and pictures

[digga]

So now that 'it's alive', how do you like the HID light? I sure would love to have some more light, mind if I ask where did you get it and how much?

As daft as it sounds ... i haven't actually rode in the dark with the HID yet ( summer,light nights etc )
But in a darkened garage(!) ........its daylight

the 'bulb' burns at 6000k which is about the same as daylight.
It was an easy(ish) set up and foolproof really.

the bits only fit one way, the problem is location
The cables are a set length and i don't think i'm up to altering wiring etc when one of the boxes says ' do not dis-assemble 23000v'

The kit came from www.hid50.com and is the H4 kit.

I paid less than the prices on the site, as i bought through another BM site where 1 of the members is a 'rep'

Anyhow....
This is what i basically did.
Tank off, lay out kit and spot places for the ballast, relay and transformer thing.
Headlamp lens and rim off. Bulb out, new HID bulb into the holder. Wire up and test
Find places for the boxes. ballast only has short leads between that and the relay so decided to fit the ballast to the frame with the supplied Dual lock. relay fits neat into the underside of the headstock area. used double sided tape. This means the Transformer has to sit out behind the headlamp bowl, this is not a problem for the unit as it is solid state unit encased in resin.The problem came in re-fitting the lens unit, it was a fullbowl with another H4 connector in there plus the additional length of the bulb .

Solution ... disconnect the H4 terminal block that fits onto the spades of the bulb, and disconnect the HID's H4 connector( so now thats 2 bits of bulky plastic swopped for male/female spades and shrink tube.
still not a good fit!!
the problem is the length of the HID bulb unit, the cable exit is to the rear and has a convoluted tube protection fitted!! The tube was cut a little shorter and a modification with a file means that the cable exits to the side now

This is satisfactory and the lens fits but its still tighter than i'd like.

After speaking to a couple of other people that have fitted the same kit, it transpires that they cut the rear out of the lamp housing
I priced for a new chrome bowl....£120....$240 so thats a no go.
I think that the head light unit is a pretty standard 7" unit and should be easy to find a substitute. i will then cut the rear out of it and 'extend' it with some fibreglass and resin for piece of mind.

I'll try to get some pics loaded to photobucket asap