Most of you folks are long distance riders so I doubt this would be of interest BUT....I noticed the R1100 has a 11-34 or 3.09-1 ratio final drive.
Any chance that'd fit in the 1150R?
I'd really enjoy a lower ratio for the roads I ride on.
Lower final drive ratio
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Re: Lower final drive ratio
I'd looked into the same thing - the vast majority of my riding is 55 to 60 mph on twisty hilly 2 lanes, and often with a passenger.
I "talked" with beemerboneyard (very helpful gentleman!!) and he informed me that the r1150r final drive has to have the ABS sensor pickup in the housing instead of picking up the signal from the caliper like in (at least mostof ?) the 1100's, although the gears themselves will interchange. But that's an expensive proposition to change and set up gears versus swapping in a complete good used final drive then reselling your original one.
He further said that there are 33:11 (3.0) final drives that will fit the r1150r's with ABS, altho they don't seem very plentiful. That would boost me from 2800 rpm at 60mph to about 2980,
which would also keep it up above 2800 at 55 etc. (2800 seems to be the point below which my torque curve starts to noticeably fade under moderate throttle)
I did some other ratio juggling and, wanting a lower 1st gear, I looked at the Adv trans which has a lower 1st gear and a lower OD ratio (smaller spread betwen 5th and 6th). With the stock 2.82, it would boost me from 2800 to 3200 at 60 mph which would be OK, but making for maybe a tad more rpms at 75 than I'd like when I do get out on the freeway. Using an Adv trans with a 2.75 final drive which is fairly common, it would go from 2800 to about 3050 at 60, about what I'd like to see and not get too high at i.e. 75, and still get me a pretty decent drop in low gear for easier starts, both easier on the clutch and with the extra weight of a passenger. But, seeing those Adv trans are rare, I'm gonna settle for a 33:11 which will get me pretty close to swapping both for an Adv trans and a 2.75 rear, with lots less work and less cost. I asked beemerboneyard to watch out for one of those for me, I figure I've got all winter to find one.
If you want a ratio spreadsheet comparing 1st and 6th gears, rpms vs road speeds, with several final drive ratio combo's with and without the Adv trans, email me at [email protected].
I "talked" with beemerboneyard (very helpful gentleman!!) and he informed me that the r1150r final drive has to have the ABS sensor pickup in the housing instead of picking up the signal from the caliper like in (at least mostof ?) the 1100's, although the gears themselves will interchange. But that's an expensive proposition to change and set up gears versus swapping in a complete good used final drive then reselling your original one.
He further said that there are 33:11 (3.0) final drives that will fit the r1150r's with ABS, altho they don't seem very plentiful. That would boost me from 2800 rpm at 60mph to about 2980,
which would also keep it up above 2800 at 55 etc. (2800 seems to be the point below which my torque curve starts to noticeably fade under moderate throttle)
I did some other ratio juggling and, wanting a lower 1st gear, I looked at the Adv trans which has a lower 1st gear and a lower OD ratio (smaller spread betwen 5th and 6th). With the stock 2.82, it would boost me from 2800 to 3200 at 60 mph which would be OK, but making for maybe a tad more rpms at 75 than I'd like when I do get out on the freeway. Using an Adv trans with a 2.75 final drive which is fairly common, it would go from 2800 to about 3050 at 60, about what I'd like to see and not get too high at i.e. 75, and still get me a pretty decent drop in low gear for easier starts, both easier on the clutch and with the extra weight of a passenger. But, seeing those Adv trans are rare, I'm gonna settle for a 33:11 which will get me pretty close to swapping both for an Adv trans and a 2.75 rear, with lots less work and less cost. I asked beemerboneyard to watch out for one of those for me, I figure I've got all winter to find one.
If you want a ratio spreadsheet comparing 1st and 6th gears, rpms vs road speeds, with several final drive ratio combo's with and without the Adv trans, email me at [email protected].
Re: Lower final drive ratio
Don't know the sordid details, but perhaps the R850 might be a possible source of a lower final drive ratio.
I know that mine, a 98 R850R has a 1:3.36, as opposed to the R1100R at 1:3, and there were later models of the R850 about the same time as the R1150.
regards,CrazyCam
I know that mine, a 98 R850R has a 1:3.36, as opposed to the R1100R at 1:3, and there were later models of the R850 about the same time as the R1150.
regards,CrazyCam
Re: Lower final drive ratio
Thanks gents.
Fortunately (?) I don't have ABS so for the moment I'll assume my choices are broader.
3.36 sounds a bit low though.
Wonderful folks at Beemerboneyard, though they did lose my "heads-up" request for a sub-frame.
(Feel rather ghoulish putting in a request with them, somewhat hoping perhaps, maybe... one of you bin's his bike?
)
Yes, at $500 plus for just the crown & pinion I'll wait for a whole unit!
Fortunately (?) I don't have ABS so for the moment I'll assume my choices are broader.
3.36 sounds a bit low though.
Wonderful folks at Beemerboneyard, though they did lose my "heads-up" request for a sub-frame.
(Feel rather ghoulish putting in a request with them, somewhat hoping perhaps, maybe... one of you bin's his bike?
)Yes, at $500 plus for just the crown & pinion I'll wait for a whole unit!
Re: Lower final drive ratio
Is there some reason you don't just leave it in 5th (or 4th) gear until you go above 60-65 mph?macx wrote: He further said that there are 33:11 (3.0) final drives that will fit the r1150r's with ABS, altho they don't seem very plentiful. That would boost me from 2800 rpm at 60mph to about 2980, which would also keep it up above 2800 at 55 etc. (2800 seems to be the point below which my torque curve starts to noticeably fade under moderate throttle)
Go Sabres!
Re: Lower final drive ratio
Actually, the rpm at 60 wasn't my main goal to change, it is the
speed in 1st gear - the existing ratio combo makes 1st gear effectively
pretty tall which takes some clutch slippage and a light, experienced
touch. I've acquired that (just had the bike a couple months) but I
frequently ride with a passenger and a lower overall first would make
it easier to start on uphill grades and with the passenger, as well as
make it a little easier on the clutch.
Going from the 2.82 to a 3.0 I know won't make a huge difference,
but is the best I can do without either going too deep a FD ratio,
or swapping in an Adv trans with the deep low which would then
put me at a little too high of an rpm when I do want to get on the
freeway, at least without still swapping the FD but going up to a 2.75.
That would be more $ and work than it would be worth, so a 3.1 is
the best I can do with relatively inexpensive and available used FDs.
By selling my FD which is lo miles and good, my cost won't be all that
much - it's just one of those things kind of like tweaking the valve
lash setting to the nth degree "just because" when less precise settings
would be adequate for most folks.
I'm an old hot rodder and have always done stuff like that to my street
machines, and have found I always like the result if I research and plan
it out.
speed in 1st gear - the existing ratio combo makes 1st gear effectively
pretty tall which takes some clutch slippage and a light, experienced
touch. I've acquired that (just had the bike a couple months) but I
frequently ride with a passenger and a lower overall first would make
it easier to start on uphill grades and with the passenger, as well as
make it a little easier on the clutch.
Going from the 2.82 to a 3.0 I know won't make a huge difference,
but is the best I can do without either going too deep a FD ratio,
or swapping in an Adv trans with the deep low which would then
put me at a little too high of an rpm when I do want to get on the
freeway, at least without still swapping the FD but going up to a 2.75.
That would be more $ and work than it would be worth, so a 3.1 is
the best I can do with relatively inexpensive and available used FDs.
By selling my FD which is lo miles and good, my cost won't be all that
much - it's just one of those things kind of like tweaking the valve
lash setting to the nth degree "just because" when less precise settings
would be adequate for most folks.
I'm an old hot rodder and have always done stuff like that to my street
machines, and have found I always like the result if I research and plan
it out.