Final Drive Fluid

[Hottech]

I am going to change my 2004 R1150R's rear drive fluid and what I have read is to use 75W-90W but do I use synthetic or dino. I have been running dino in the crankcase, just turned 11,000 miles. Any suggestions, last service was at the dealership at 6,000 miles and am not sure what they charged me for. While I am asking what do you suggest for the transmission?

[towerworker]

Opinions are plentiful around here on what brand and type of oil to use. I personally use Lucas 80w/90 with no problems. (dino)
I used it in my 03 and again in my 04. A good name brand oil and regular (frequent) changes are the way to go.

Wayne

[towerworker]

Sorry---didn't see your last question. I use the same in both FD and tranny.

[ebincia]

I use BMW 75w140 in the FD and transmission because it is convenient. IMO It does not matter as long as you use gear oil and change it at the recommended intervals.

[challey]

I've been using 80W90 synthetic simply because I bought a couple of quarts of Red Line on sale. IMO, there is no need to use synthetic in FD because the rear is not heavily stressed and does not get particularly hot - unlike the trans.
I wholeheartedly agree with Wayne that a good name brand gear lube - either dino or synth - is the way to go.
Charlie

[Buckster]

I also use 75-140 synth but I change it every 12K instead of the 24K recomended by the service manual. 12K recommended by my dealer.

[towerworker]

It seems to me the FD's are not as "bullet-proof" as I once thought so I've been changing my FD oil every 6K to be safe. Possibly I'm wasting my money and time but the oil is cheap as is my labor. We'll see.

Wayne

[def38]

I've been using 80W90 synthetic simply because I bought a couple of quarts of Red Line on sale. IMO, there is no need to use synthetic in FD because the rear is not heavily stressed and does not get particularly hot........
Charlie

Not true. While the FD does not get particularly hot, there are some highly stressed components like the crown wheel bearing. This bearing is under tension (preload) as a function of the factory assembly technique and can receive high lateral loads during riding. I recommend a quality gear oil of appropriate viscosity and grade to which about 10% moly is added. Then change it regularly to monitor metallic contamination.

[def38]

It seems to me the FD's are not as "bullet-proof" as I once thought so I've been changing my FD oil every 6K to be safe. Possibly I'm wasting my money and time but the oil is cheap as is my labor. We'll see.

Wayne

Wayne, you might be better off extending your FD oil change interval to spot possible debris in the oil. You may not get much of a read at your short change intervals.