Making my own "Key on" power system.

[CycleRob]

As you might know, the CANbus system isn't tolerant of you just tapping into wires for key on power. The computer monitors the current draw to everything and if something unusual happens, like a higher current draw, even a short circuit, it'll shut that component's power off. That's a good thing (I think ) and it means the bike has NO FUSES!!

So plan A is to buy stuff someone made allowing you to create your own fused power center while not freaking out the CANbus system. I see these types of installations and they all had 2 things wrong with them . . . well, maybe 3 or 4 things:
1--They cost 40 or 50 bucks!! (USD)
2--They are sloppy as hell and scattered all over the place.
3--They use those cheesy crimp over insulated wire squeeze on taps
4--They use power wires that are way too thin for heated clothing AND everything else.

This is what I did using wires, a relay, a tiny auto resetting 30A circuit breaker and a terminal strip salvaged from discarded appliances, a racebike conversion, a fried industrial power supply and other damaged equipment. It took the better part of 2 evenings to make the mental list, round up those parts from my semi sorted storage containers, get all of my tools needed to put it all together, then go to Radio Shack for the isolation diode I didn't have.

First and foremost is that it must allow easy serviceability . . . . removing the airbox, front fairing support or battery. My home brewed system removes as one assembly with the removal of the 2 terminal strip mounting screws, both battery terminal bolts and slipping off the relay from it's support bracket held in place by the battery hold down screw. That assembly can then be laid off to the bike's left side so the airbox can be removed. It also can be unplugged and/or unbolted from the front end components in that nothing is captively soldered into place.Then it had to cause no irreversible changes. I had to bend that rule a little with the 2 tiny screw holes in the top of the airbox, but they can be melted shut with a soldering gun. The wires used are much heavier gage than needed so things like two 60W Widder vests can be used at once (on the highway). There were NO crappy, troublesome crimp-on wire taps!! I despise those little POS! Every high current joint was soldered. The 30A resetting circuit breaker may be too high a rating , but it was free and it does provide some total meltdown protection.

I now have key on power for the Zumo450 on the left handlebar and my ancient but accurate 3 color 3 LED voltmeter, installed externally just below the instrument cluster. The entire system is such a simple circuit I had no fear it all wouldn't work perfectly. It does. The up front cost? $2.19 USD for a packet of 3 (I only needed 1) 1.5A, 1,000v rectifier diodes.



.

[CycleRob]

A friend asked me . . . "Why didn't you just BUY a CenTech AP-2 and be done with it?"
Because I don't have to. Thinking of you out there with the skills to do this, even copy it directly, motivate yourself to just purchase the individual electrical parts that are obvious to anyone with the skills to do it. Those parts would replicate the fuse protected Battery/Accessory functions desired and it would still be cheaper than that Centech AP-2 . . . but without the fancy gold tone cover that no one will see. To me, building it exactly as I want it, as robust as I want it, where I want it, is part of the satisfaction. I took it to the extreme by making something pretty good out of almost nothing using salvaged parts of tough industrial quality. I just gotta be me. I could just as well used plan "B" and filled the mentally recorded parts list at Radio Shack or better yet, the Fry's Electronics store 34 miles away (54.7 km). Naturally it requires sound basic electrical practices or you will likely damage your vehicles electrical system as the bang-pop-flash flying molten copper damages half your eyesight.

Well, it's working great, confirmed by LED voltmeter's virtually constant 14.1V indication and Zumo450 asking "Do you want to continue on battery power?" seconds after the key is turned off. Also, I have not seen any display/indicator warnings from the "BMS-K grand master" either.

Thinking ahead, I need to add another 12V car power socket for a Battery Tender Jr hookup. On bikes like the F800 with higher than normal parasitic drains (clock, BMS-K memory) that will loose almost 1% battery charge level per day, it's a good idea to plug it in if the idle time is longer than a week to 10 days. I spent a lot of time making the practical decisions on the location and as I mentioned, undo-able changes that will be tolerant of the bike's normal serviceability. It's surprising how little available space there is for a protected 12V car power socket or hidden push button switch that is easy to get at. My last bike I drilled into the fender panel where the fuel tank is on my F800ST for the power socket and mini toggle switch to cut off the analogue clock's power for the Pennsylvania winters.

Initially I felt hostile toward the intolerant, uncooperative CANbus system, but after conquering it so easily for just a couple bucks and a couple half days work, I like how it both controls and watches over the system, performing the jobs of many old fashioned, sometimes short lived components (fuses) that are no longer in the system. There isn't even a H/L relay or signal flasher unit on the bike. Turning on the 4-way flashers. Turning on the Hi-beam. Turning off the headlight. Even blowing the horn! If you happen to stall the engine taking off in 2nd instead of 1st gear and the cooling fan is on, everything that was on, including the headlight, gets turned OFF. Finally, did you know the master computer does not even allow a partial flash of the signal lights? If you hit the cancel button just as the signal lights up, it still performs the full duration flash's normal time interval. That means the cancel button is not a relay controlling switch like in older conventional systems. It's just a request to the BMS-K to stop the signal lite's flashing. Think about it and watch your signals cancel perfectly without that amateurish partial flash . . . another pleasing hidden function on the newer generation of BMW bikes to admire.

.

[touchton]

I'm going to do the same to my F800ST this weekend. I purchased a zumo 660 and Motolights that will require electrical work. The zumo will be simple; just wire to the switched power block. The Motolights are a different story. I'm thinking about installing the on/off switch on the black plastic frame just below the instrument cluster. I'll use the same style switch as I had on the R1150R.

Obviously, I'll add a relay to supply power to the lights. I'm struggling with what to use to control the relay. If I use simple switched power, the Motolights will be on whenever the key is on. I've noticed the headlight does not come on until the engine is started. And it turns off a few seconds after actuating the kill switch. I know, I know........ but, I use the kill switch. So, what I'm thinking is controlling the Motolights with the hot lead to the headlight. I can run it through the on/off switch to the relay coil.

After these mods are installed, I’ve got to do something about that horn.

[CycleRob]

touchton,

Being that the low beam normally stays on when you flip it to the Hi beam, I was satisfied with the amount of the lighting on the road ahead. Plus, the bike's 400W alternator/regulator/rectifier system would be thermally taxed by an additional 110W load at the lower engine RPM's.

There's room to add another horn to the other side of the lower triple tree where there's already a threaded hole to mount it to. Since the main computer, not a relay, supplies and monitors the horn power you can't just add another horn (not that you would 2 x the current on the same wires). I'll connect the 2nd horn's relay coil (+) to the stock horn's power wire (using a Radio Shack 1.5A, 1,000V isolation diode) and ground the other relay coil wire. The relay's batt and load terminals are no mystery.

Gassed up with $2.33/gal Chevron regular today using the refill-2-top & read/reset tripmeter method. 200.2 miles and 3.21 gallons = 62.5 MPG (4.519L/100km). The computer's running average MPG display said 64. Pretty good system.

I'm currently working on a minimalist GPS bracket using the 4 forward most "tank" screws. To be finished tomorrow and earning it's own post in a few days after painting. I spent days making prototypes out of cereal box cardboard until I hit the jackpot today.

.

[touchton]

I agree the headlight on this bike is much better than what we've been accustomed to. I'm adding the lights primarily to make the bike more visible to other drivers. I've already had several people try to make a left turn in my path. Nobody did that when I rode the R1150R. I really think the additional lights and the triangular light pattern make people see you.

I know I'll have to add a relay for the horn. I'm hoping to fit dual FIAMM in there, but I'm not sure there's room. That's a project for later.

I've only run a couple of tanks of gas through mine. I'm not sure if I'm completely filling it up though. I assume it's best to fill the bike up on the side stand. I'm not really paying attention to the mileage until after the break-in period. I did want to see how accurate the 'miles to empty' calculation is. I ran out of gas when it claims I had 4 miles left.

I'm interested to see the GPS mount you've come up with. I just got an email letting me know my GPS has shipped. It'll be here for the weekend. For now I'll just mount it to the handlebars.

Thad

[Boxer]

Rob, That's the second isolation diode you've added. As always, I'm mystified by anything electrical, so bear with me. Does adding the diode to an existing switched power source, essentially do the same thing as that proprietary "GPS" switched power plug under the faux tank?

The reason I ask, is, there is a white (with yellow wires) connection you can buy from BMW to hook up to that "GPS" power source to run accessories off of. My plan now is to run my Centech Fuse block off that plug for a block of switched connections to power several items. Is running the power from the parking light with the inline diode doing the same thing?

[CycleRob]

"Is running the power from the parking light with the inline diode doing the same thing?"

No. The parking lite goes on/off with the key. The undertank GPS power plug stays on IIRC about 1.5 minutes after the key goes off -and- it's voltage is a few tenths of a volt lower for the Navigator GPS it's meant for. I saw that power plug in there, taped up on the right side of the airbox.

Also, the 14V from the pilot lite's power wire is used to actuate your added on power relay's switching coil and nothing else.

The isolation diodes are just a precaution against damaging the bike's electronics with induced EMF spikes, as normally occurs when the electromagnetic field in the relay coil collapses.

touchton,
The twin FIAMMs look like they'd fit:
--In the L & R body panel cavities between the front signal and BMW emblem.
--Off the lower front body panel bracket engine bolt adjacent to the heat exchanger and it's partner on the other side.
--Replacing the stock horn in it's location and in the same opposite location from the threaded hole on the triple tree's underside.

"I did want to see how accurate the 'miles to empty' calculation is. I ran out of gas when it claims I had 4 miles left.
"
4 miles? That's 1/16th of a gallon . . . pretty much a dead ringer! Besides, rumor has it you shouldn't trust it that much. That's why so many Indy Car drivers have run out of fuel before the finish line. It's not advised too run he bike out of fuel as the fuelpump may overspeed pumping air. Also the manual says the catalyst will be overheated by the overly lean misfiring.

The average MPG is calculated until you press-n-hold the info button to reset it, so you don't have to do anything to figure out the (almost accurate) mileage. The imperfect sidestand fill-up comparo I did was 62.5 actual, 64 displayed. That's quite good considering how it is figured out.

BTW, Did you get the ABS?
.

[touchton]

touchton,
The twin FIAMMs look like they'd fit:
--In the L & R body panel cavities between the front signal and BMW emblem.
--Off the lower front body panel bracket engine bolt adjacent to the heat exchanger and it's partner on the other side.
--Replacing the stock horn in it's location and in the same opposite location from the threaded hole on the triple tree's underside.

Did you get the OBC & ABS?
.

Speaking of body panels, I've only removed the center panel which would normally be where the tank is. Several of the bolt thingies were partially striped. I had to run a tap through them to straighten them out. The front turn indicators are attached to the lower panels. Is there an electrical connector for the wiring to make removal easier? If not I'll have to get a couple of connectors to add there. When I pull mine apart this weekend I'll check out the locations you describe. I really liked the dual FIAMMs I had on the R1150R.

I did get the OBC and ABS. Personally, I'm a fan of ABS for a street bike. I know there are cost, weight, and maintenance considerations but I just feel it's the best thing for me. I don't intend to own another car or street bike without it. Just the same I'll never own a home without indoor plumbing, air conditioning, high speed Internet, and HD TV. There is some technological advances I won't do without.

The OBC is nice. I haven't played with it much. Actually, I haven't reset the average speed and average fuel economy settings. There's so much other 'new' stuff to get used to I just haven't got to the OBC yet.

[CycleRob]

I saw that about F800 riders adding signal lite wire terminals for panel removal, but they are up there, folded & taped to the wiring harness just above! The little plug has the tiny and inconspicous lift-2-release fingernail tab to get them apart.

Those body panel screws thread into squashed and distorted clip-nuts intended to prevent the screws falling out since you shouldn't tighten them toooo much for fear of crushing the plastic. I tapped mine out (5mm x .8 threads) as those wiggy nuts were damaging the screws! Time to break out the clear nail polish . . . . a tiny dab on the threads serves as a low strength thread locker.

Being that you ride in all kinds of bad weather, you need ABS! Besides, it's less than ½ price of the OilHead system & it's NOT linked.

.

[bmwdave52]

$2.33 a gallon?! It's about $3 here in Kalifornia.

[CycleRob]

We're a red state here, so you're paying the liberal nanny state fees and higher taxes, even though some places the oil is bubbling up out of the ground or washing ashore from the ocean.

Gassed up Ann's Civic and two 6 gallon cans yesterday (same place) and Chevron regular went down to $2.32/Gal. It sure runs good in my bike!

[Boxer]

Rob,
I didn't think to ask you about this on the phone yesterday. I want to use my Hella FF50 driving lights on the new bike. They each draw 55 watts of power which will greatly tax the 400 watt alternators capacity. I'm wondering if I can replace the H7 bulbs with these:

http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/DRL- ... 5-1-2.html

Will that work? Like Touchton, I don't need them for night time illumination so much as to be noticed from the front better. Is there any reason I can't just replace the H7 bulbs in the Hellas with these LED bulbs?

[CycleRob]

The current draw is OK on the road as long as your not idling too long with two 55W H-7 bulbs of the Hella FF50 driving lights burning.

About those LED H-7's They say:
" It has 42 radial firing LED's that fire perfectly into the chrome reflectors of your cars lamp assembly creating a sparkling effect, and 6 Forward firing LED's to fill out the front of the lens. These are brighter than any other H7 LED to date. Complete your exterior lighting with a High End, Luxury appearance

*Note bulbs are not to be used as a primary source of light.
These bulbs are intended for use as a Day Time Running light or for aesthetic purposes only. They are a great match for HID headlights but not intended to be used as a primary source of light"

So yes, with only .36 Amps draw each, you could mount FOUR of them and still be less than ½ the Wattage draw of just ONE H-7 bulb! The 50 bucks is very cheap considering the cool running temperature, long lifespan and low current draw. Good find and these are near the top of my farkles list for daytime running lites.

.

[CycleRob]

Touchton, You're correct about using the low beam headlite power and I hope you do so -or- like me, change it over to it!

Update for F800ST owners:
I copied other F800 rider's recommended use of the pilot lite's blue power wire to actuate the relay for the key-on power system . . .
-BUT-
I should not have blindly trusted them! On a dark niteime start I realized that the pilot lite is "on" as soon as you turn the key on -and- worst of all, it stays on while the starter is cranking !!
That means that all the accessory items are "on" too. OMG! WTF!
Gotta change that! How? The low beam headlite power looks to be the best candidate, since it comes on after the engine starts -and- goes off immediately with the key.
There is one issue, for me, with using that low beam power wire, which admirably is still on when the 2nd high beam bulb is selected. When I get stuck at one of those 3 minute traffic lites, I turn the headlite off. Hold the front brake throughout the event. Press and hold the cancel button over 6 seconds. Release and press/hold the right signal button. About 3 seconds of holding the right signal button and the low beam goes off and "Lamp" is displayed in the Info panel. If the right signal immediately flashes instead, you didn't wait the full 6 seconds for the cancel button press! Do the 6 second press over again. The headlite stays off until the bike moves forward/backward the slightest amount. This undocumented in the manual headlite off feature is useful when the radiator cooling fan is running and the engine is idling at a hard stop. As soon as the power draining low beam lite goes off you can hear the fan speed increase. Cool.

All is not lost though. I will still use the pilot lite's wire tapped power directly to exclusively operate my LED voltmeter . . . . showing me the engine-off-key-on and starter cranking voltage in addition to the runtime voltage.

.

[CycleRob]

Well, I fixed the key on power source to it's correct relay power supplier, the low beam headlite. Basically, nothing gets accessory power unless the engine is running and the alternator is charging. That's how it should be so the battery can't be overloaded by plugged in turned on accessories every time I start the engine. The near zero power draw 3 LED voltmeter stayed hooked up to the pilot lite and it does show <12.1V cranking on the starter, immediately jumping to 14.1 after it starts.

It wasn't that hard to do. I only had to remove the left body panel and mirror to gain access. Soldering the short pigtail to the headlite's yellow wire (low beam power) was just plain frustrating in the very limited space, but necessary unless I took the whole front end off. Now, the BMS-K computer doesn't power up my stuff until the alternator is putting out. Sweet!

.

[OU812]

We're a red state here, so you're paying the liberal nanny state fees and higher taxes, even though some places the oil is bubbling up out of the ground or washing ashore from the ocean.

And I was so ready to praise you on you skills.... Then you have to beat your chest about who runs your state.

[snowprick]

Rob,

Did you ever try Posi-Taps? http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html they come in all different sizes.

[CycleRob]

snowprick,

I always make soldered connections whenever possible. It's the only connection that can transmit 100% full power, shared equally by all available wire strands. It's immune to corrosion or mechanical loosening that will degrade full current power transmission. The very conductive solder forms a molecular bond with all of each wire strand's outer surface. Any and all of those crimp connectors literally squash or stab into the mass of wire strands, likely missing full mechanical contact with a few that then cannot equally share the power transmission task. That may sound like splitting hairs, but I have the time, desire, skills and equipment to make the best connections possible. That "old way" is also the least expensive.

[snowprick]

I hear you Rob. For the purpose of a "switching tap" from a difficult area, it works for me.