Anyone else have slow, or reluctant gear changes in the past? Especially going down the box (eg 4->3, 2->1). Upchanges seem ok - if a little stiff. Sometimes I can't change down for a few seconds without playing games with the clutch/throttle a bit.
My Rockster has started doing this and I was afraid it might be the return spring within the box itself - but on closer inspection, there IS some "spring" within the feel of the lever movement, but it's not returning fully under it's own "power".
Talking to some mates last night and one mentioned that the BM box can give problems - is this true?
I'm hoping that it's just a build up of crud around the lever's area of travel outside the casings - I will admit that I am less than fastidious when it comes to cleaning the bike, especially over the last few months, and the last month or two it has been getting particularly dirty on the roads (autumn etc). I use the bike daily for a 30 mile commute. Is a build up around the lever likely?
Reluctant gear changes - anyone else?
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riceburner
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Re: Reluctant gear changes - anyone else?
Burner,
You've probably seen this thread from recent past:
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18348
Note the comments about difficult downshifting.
Guess I should do this myself as preventive maintenance.
You've probably seen this thread from recent past:
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18348
Note the comments about difficult downshifting.
Guess I should do this myself as preventive maintenance.
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riceburner
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Re: Reluctant gear changes - anyone else?
sweatmark wrote:Burner,
You've probably seen this thread from recent past:
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18348
Note the comments about difficult downshifting.
Guess I should do this myself as preventive maintenance.
Cheers - I think I missed that first time round.
Re: Reluctant gear changes - anyone else?
You may need to change your clutch fluid. For a temperary fix, without taking anything apart, read the write up by Cycle Rob. Good luck.
by CycleRob » Fri May 18, 2007 11:40 am
Problems with the clutch fluid are influenced more by the age of the fluid than the odometer reading. Mid window fluid level is OK unless the bike is leaned way over on the sidestand and you jerk the bars while squeezing the clutch lever. That would move the fluid to one side instead of covering the feed hole and inhale a tiny air bubble. That'll give you the symptoms you have. It's a long shot, but for some unlucky people it can and does happen.
There is an easy way to purge a clutch master cylinder air bubble any time the bike is stopped without taking anything apart. It can firm up a soft lever you've gotten used to that still functions OK, but with a tiny trapped air bubble in the banjo bolt fitting or the piston bore itself. It requires you lean the bike to properly orientate the master cylinder so the air bubble's path is up and out the internal bleed-back hole. This technique works on any bike with a clutch master cylinder, with only pullback cruiser handlebars having issues because of the weird way they are tilted. Here's what you do:
1 - Sitting on the bike, grab the front brake to keep the bike from rolling.
2 - Turn the steering full right lock and keep it there.
3 - Lean the bike as far as you can to the right without loosing it.
4 - Squeeze the clutch lever about a quarter of full travel in-and-out about 30 times with a full release pause about 1 second between squeezes. Squeeze in slowly, release it quickly.
5 - After just a few squeezes you should feel a change in firmness and the point of actuation.
6 - Smile bigtime and go for a ride.
Air can also be generated by grungy bacteria growing in the minute amount of water absorbed by the 3 or 4 year old DOT-4 fluid. Engine heat kills this stuff, but a bike in storage or one infrequently ridden is an easy target. Just like the tiny bubbles in beer. This grunge can stay in place on a bleeding operation as a film on the internal walls of the system, usually in the lowest point, the slave cylinder bore. Removing the master cylinder and especially the slave for disassembly and cleaning borderlines on major surgery, so make this a last resort all else has failed choice.
by CycleRob » Fri May 18, 2007 11:40 am
Problems with the clutch fluid are influenced more by the age of the fluid than the odometer reading. Mid window fluid level is OK unless the bike is leaned way over on the sidestand and you jerk the bars while squeezing the clutch lever. That would move the fluid to one side instead of covering the feed hole and inhale a tiny air bubble. That'll give you the symptoms you have. It's a long shot, but for some unlucky people it can and does happen.
There is an easy way to purge a clutch master cylinder air bubble any time the bike is stopped without taking anything apart. It can firm up a soft lever you've gotten used to that still functions OK, but with a tiny trapped air bubble in the banjo bolt fitting or the piston bore itself. It requires you lean the bike to properly orientate the master cylinder so the air bubble's path is up and out the internal bleed-back hole. This technique works on any bike with a clutch master cylinder, with only pullback cruiser handlebars having issues because of the weird way they are tilted. Here's what you do:
1 - Sitting on the bike, grab the front brake to keep the bike from rolling.
2 - Turn the steering full right lock and keep it there.
3 - Lean the bike as far as you can to the right without loosing it.
4 - Squeeze the clutch lever about a quarter of full travel in-and-out about 30 times with a full release pause about 1 second between squeezes. Squeeze in slowly, release it quickly.
5 - After just a few squeezes you should feel a change in firmness and the point of actuation.
6 - Smile bigtime and go for a ride.
Air can also be generated by grungy bacteria growing in the minute amount of water absorbed by the 3 or 4 year old DOT-4 fluid. Engine heat kills this stuff, but a bike in storage or one infrequently ridden is an easy target. Just like the tiny bubbles in beer. This grunge can stay in place on a bleeding operation as a film on the internal walls of the system, usually in the lowest point, the slave cylinder bore. Removing the master cylinder and especially the slave for disassembly and cleaning borderlines on major surgery, so make this a last resort all else has failed choice.
Re: Reluctant gear changes - anyone else?
My 2004 is reluctant to shift up: 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th. Usually, it's when accelerating briskly. I broke a shift lever and had to descend a mountain in either 2nd or 3rd gear (I forget which). Lot's of coasting and braking to get to where I could pull off safely. Lever was aftermarket part of peg lowering kit. The upshift problem did not begin right away, but I've noticed it more lately.
Anybody else observed this phenomenon?
REFFI
Anybody else observed this phenomenon?
REFFI
REFFI
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AirForceDirt
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Re: Reluctant gear changes - anyone else?
Only issue I've ever had with gear changes is getting stuck in neutral when going from first to second gear. Not real sure what causes that. Its not too bad, except for the god-awful racket that comes form having to shift back into first gear.
