I really BOUGHT THIS ONE!

[PJBrendel]

First, thanks to all those helped on the last bike consideration. I ponied up the 20 bucks for membership in appreciation.
This time I found one in near mint condition with only about 2500 mi on it. The price is a bit high for the year but the condition is supposed to be great and it’s hard to find the right bike at the right price in the right place. I will test the gears and brakes but if I buy should I have the clutch and brake fluids flushed and replaced? The only service that it ever had was the 500 mi. Also could the tires be compromised just by sitting so long?

Thanks

Paul

[tlwood28]

I will defer to the more mechanically capable should they correct me, but from doing my own research here for my own purchase, there is a concern as for any engine for fluids sitting in the bike for a long time because moisture creeps in and causes corrosion. I gather the main risk is that the engine will not run as long or the mechanical life is shortened. Also as to tires, I know there is a big debate on this. Some replace, some don't. If the bike hasn't been moved, you probably have flat spotted tires too.

For me, I bought a 2002 bike with just 5000 miles on it. I got it for a GREAT price, and the tires looked like new without any cracking but were original to the bike. There was no history beyond the first 600 miles of any service change, although the bike had some work (new battery for instance).

Still to feel comfortable as to the tires and the service, I went ahead and replaced the tires and did a full 12000 mile service at the dealer. I don't regret doing that (well maybe having had it done at a dealer given the cost--$1400!!??), but I took what was a great price, and pretty quickly ramped it up to the point where I had a like new bike (subject to any hidden gremlins due to neglect), but now for just a "decent" price. If my initial buy-in hadn't been so low, I would have been far less happy with the decision I made--because I'm CHEAP .

My point here, not very well articulated, is that if the seller wants top dollar for the bike, and you are going to replace the tires and have service done, particularly at a dealer, you may find you are into the bike price-wise more than you want, and at the cost of better options.

There is certainly an allure for low mileage bikes, but if you find a higher mileage but well maintained example at a better price--particularly one that will need nothing, I would question which way you would be better off.

Another point worth mentioning is to consider how you are going to use the bike. If for touring or errands and you want the bags, you need to factor that in as well (and the hangers that are needed too). The bags alone go new for around $700 new, although they come up used periodically for about $350-450 depending on condition. In other words, a bike that has the stuff you want already on it is a better value than one that doesn't. So if the price is high but it has all the needed stuff, then it might not be so high.

Obvious comments I suppose. But as a new buyer not having been in the market for 15 years I had a lot to learn. Fortunately the bike has been an absolute joy to own.

Good luck however you decide.

Tom W.

[iowabeakster]

I will test the gears and brakes but if I buy should I have the clutch and brake fluids flushed and replaced?

YES! The interval of changing these fluids is based on time, not miles. You didn't mention the model year, but if it is an early model, and they have not been changed, they are way overdue.

Also could the tires be compromised just by sitting so long?

YES! Tlwood also mentions the flat spot possibility. More importantly, Rubber becomes less elastic as it ages...it loses grip or "stickyness". Depending on the year, those tires could be very compromised.

I would also definitely change the engine oil and filter immediately. I would also change transmission and final drive oils.

I completely agree with tlwood about the allure of super low miles. I wouldn't pay much more for a bike with 2500 miles than I would for a (hypothetical) clean bike with 12,500 miles, that has been regularly and properly serviced. If the bike with 2500 miles has not been maintained, I would actually prefer the one with 12,500.

He also made a great point about the costs of accessories and service that will be needed.

I would inquire about maintenance, if it is up to snuff... get it!

[PJBrendel]

All good points, the bike is a 2004 with abs, heated grips, windscreen and bags for $7750. It's been kept on a center stand in a heated garage and started regularly. The fluids have not been changed in five or so years. I should probably price out the cost of services tomorrow. I don't know it may be getting close to the cost of a used r1200r (?) if it needs tires and all those services. I think the r1150r looks cooler (just my opinion) and all I want to do is escape "Planet Family" for ride occasionally so I won't be putting more than about 1-2k miles/year on it. There just aren't many of these locally and, yea if its mint it would be really fun to have.

Paul

[Sunbeemer]

It's been kept on a center stand in a heated garage and started regularly. The fluids have not been changed in five or so years.

Starting these bikes without actually riding them is not good...it creates lots of moisture in the oil that creates bearing etching acids, and, without air flowing over the engine, it quickly overheats. One telltale sign of past engine overheating is the plastic oil level window melts and may look opaque and/or bubbled.

I should probably price out the cost of services tomorrow.

It takes minimal mechanical aptitude to do the fluid changes yourself, if your're so inclined, and delivers a lot of satisfaction and familiarity with the bike's systems and overall condition...always good to know when you're out on the road.

I think the r1150r looks cooler (just my opinion)

Agreed

so I won't be putting more than about 1-2k miles/year on it.

I think you will be quickly enticed by this elegantly handling machinery into riding a lot more miles than that on it. If you're like me, you could soon find yourself wanting to ride out west for the summer in search of high mountain twisties through pine forests and along rugged coastlines...

The bike and this forum enhances and promotes the experience of ownership and ridership.

[jcridge]

As its been pointed out, you will need to change all the fluids ASAP.

I would install new tires and check the the bike very throughly before venturing out with it.

If it runs out well around home, then fill the tank and put 300 miles on it. Then dump a can of Sea Foam in the tank on the next fill up and run it another 300 miles. This should clean the fuel system and by now you will have a real good idea of what you have, may want to put new sparkplugs in at this point. Is the battery OK?


If you do your own work, its well worth it. If you plan on letting the dealer do the work, it will be close to $1K to get the bike sorted out.
John

[R4R&R]

As its been pointed out, you will need to change all the fluids ASAP.

Agreed. They're easy to do yourself.

I would install new tires and check the the bike very throughly before venturing out with it.

Definitely. Even if the tires have a lot of tread left and don't leak, they will probably not handle worth beans. Most likely they will not give you the full amount of traction they normally have to offer. Once they're dried out, they'll be more prone to slip.

Then dump a can of Sea Foam in the tank on the next fill up and run it another 300 miles.

Whoa - not a whole can! I'd put maybe a couple ounces in a full tank of gas, but a full can would be overkill and possibly cause other problems.

If you do your own work, its well worth it. If you plan on letting the dealer do the work, it will be close to $1K to get the bike sorted out.
John

Amen. Find your local club; see if they hold tech days. Those are great ways to get experienced assistance on just about any standard maintenance procedure you would possibly have to do.

[PJBrendel]

Again, thanks for all the info. I have already priced out the services through a local, respected BMW mechanic and it really won't be too bad. I definitely agree with new tires and battery also. Eventually (maybe) I will try to do some of the work myself but for now I just want to ride it when the snow melts and the rain clears the salt. Hopefully tomorrow it will be mine!

Paul

[TicTac50]

I love the BMW crowd.
There is something special about BMW motorcycle riders. My favorite one, that separates BMW guys from the rest of the world of motorcycling, is the legendary question. The “maintenance record”. I would be very interested in the statistics. How many people that ride BMW motorcycle have purchased a used car and asked for the “MAINTENANCE RECORD”?
After 8 years of riding my R1150, the maintenance record of that bike does not have a history beyond 600 miles service. I would be very surprised to find any maintenance record of CycleRob’s old bike, probably one of the best maintained BMW R1150 bike in the US and with “NO” maintenance record. Actually, I have to admit, I owe a great deal to this so called “maintenance record”. After I purchased my R1150, a week later my bike was at the BMW dealership for 600 miles service. The next day I was back at the dealership complaining about performance of the bike. The BMW master mechanic took my bike for a 20 minutes ride and informed me that my bike is in top shape. Also, I was presented with the paperwork, just to back up the mechanics statement that all the work was performed correctly, including the valves adjustment. Of course the next day I had to readjust all the valves, since more of them where wrong than right. Few months later and 5k on the odometer, I got very ill. My bike set in the garage for almost 2 years and my doctors assured me that I will never be able to drive a car or ride a motorcycle. Sadly, I put my bike up for sale asking about 2500 dollars below the market value. Just could not look at the bike anymore. A very nice gentleman quickly responded to my ad, since the price was right. We did not negotiate the price, but the deal breaker was the famous “maintenance record”. The potential BMW buyer politely wished me a “GOOD LUCK” selling my bike with 5k and no maintenance record. That good luck got me out of my illness. Not without dropping my bike once in the garage and once on the grass in front of the house, I started to ride again. I am very grateful to the gentlemen for wishing me that good luck, it really worked, and the absence of the “maintenance record” sure helped.
The BMW bike is not a “salami” or “pepperoni”, it is like a fine wine, gets better with an ages and miles.

P.S. It is nice to know that BMW certified mechanic maintained the bike, but what really happens in the service area and how much time did mechanic have to perform the service properly is a BIG question.

Good Luck.

[Buckster]

I agree with you Tic-Tac. It doesn't hurt to ask....but it wouldn't be a deal breaker for me. I know most BMW guys, especially oil and airhead guys, do their own service as I do most of mine as well. I do document it in my service manual with the dates and mileage.

[PJBrendel]

ITS MINE NOW!!!

Can't wait to ride it. Have to get it registered insured and have the above services done. Hopefully the snow will be gone soon. The bike is in mint shape hopefully the interior is as good as the exterior. I rode it for a half hour or so and all worked flawlessly. The only small problem is that the tank has a small dent in it no chipped paint though. Unmentioned in the add and not visible in the photo either, funny. Yea I could have walked away but I still thought it was worth it and it doesn’t bother me that much but I will check out the Dent Doctor.
Good point about maintenance records TicTac. I guess I'm a little more concerned about the history if its available since I had a distant in-law that used to sell salvaged cars.

Thanks again.

Paul

[TicTac50]

ITS MINE NOW!!!

Can't wait to ride it.
Paul

I know the feeling. I got three of them in the last few years, all used.

Congratulations!!!
You will have many, many happy miles and great joy of riding an almost a brand new bike.
Take good care of it and remember, the bike is not broken in yet. Take it easy at first. She is still a baby.
Bring a good handkerchief with you when you go for a ride. You will need it to wipe the smile of you face.
What ever you paid for this bike, the original owner paid over 3 dollars for every mile this bike was ridden.
Good Luck.

[Sunbeemer]

TicTac50 wrote,

the bike is not broken in yet. Take it easy at first.

Taking it easy is good advice for you as a rider unfamiliar with a new bike, especially one with a longitudinal crankshaft that torques the motorcycle with each twist of the trottle and superior braking ability, but not necessarily good for a new motor...

There are different schools of thought about correct break-in procedures, but with 5000 miles on yours already, it probably doesn't matter too much anymore. Generally though, it's best to avoid lugging (too low rpm), and avoid constant speeds for long periods of time. Accelerating (don't forget to decelerate ) helps seat the piston rings better and faster, which is a good way to reduce oil consumption quickly.

One thing you should not be overly concerned about for the first 15,000 miles is oil consumption. I takes this long for the hard Chrome-moly rings to seal to the NikaSil-coated cyclinder walls. Expect to use about a quart of oil between 3,000 mile oil changes. While this may sound like a lot for a motorcycle, remember these sumps hold 4 quarts, so its really not that bad - but worth keeping an eye on.

Checking the oil level accurately can be kind of a pain with the potential for making errors that can lead to overfilling because of the amount of oil that can be caught in the oil coolers if the engine didn't get hot enough to open the thermostat and let it drain back into the sump. Overfilling your oil is not a good thing, but not lethal either (if it's not way too much). Excess oil will be expelled into the air cleaner box through the crankcase vent. The manual specifies to check the oil on a hot engine after letting it sit on the cener stand a couple minutes before reading the level in the sight glass. Oil level should be kept between the upper edge of the inner red circle (bullseye) and the outer red circle. I also place the hot bike on its sidestand for a couple minutes before putting it on the centerstand for another minute to check the oil level. I think this helps break the suction in the cooler lines to get the oil drained into the sump faster - like tipping a ketchup bottle instead of upending it.

[PJBrendel]

Thanks, I am so excited about owning this bike. I can’t wait till the roads clear up. Goods points about break in miles. I forgot that they can use more oil until broken in. I did get a used R1200C several years ago, put about 3K miles on it, and now remember hearing the same advice. It did take some oil at first. It was a really nice bike but I sold it because I didn't like the cruiser riding position. This bike only has 2400 on the odometer so I'll really watch the oil. I have one of those giant sized dental type mirror sticks that I use to check the oil when I'm sitting on the bike. I usually only put about 1k mi/year on my bikes but that may now change.

Paul