Rear Tire Mount by Hand

[zbodan]

So I decided to go the route of changing my tires by hand this time to save some money. After figuring out how to break the bead and changing my front tire with some trouble, the front is now back on the bike and I'm currently working on the back.

My concern and reason for posting is that when I was trying to get the second lip of the tire over the rim using 2 tire irons, when there was approximately 30% of the tire left to get over, it took a substantial amount of force and the very edge of the tire began to rip just slightly (very tiny rips). Now, it didn't rip to any degree to cause trouble with the bead, but I am afraid of putting more force into it and ending up with a completely ripped tire.

This is my first time changing tires by hand, so is it just normal for the rear tire to be so much harder than the front? And do I need to not worry about ripping it and just get it on?

I waited until today, as I was doing it yesterday, because I was going to leave it in the sun to warm up a bit, but it seems today is going to be cloudy all day (and I don't want to wait longer if I don't have to).

[omg1010]

What the heck are you trying to save? Getting a tire change at my local mechanic did cost me 5 bucks yesterday .... Calculate the amount of time you need to change one tire and I presume it is a total waste of resources ... Apart of the fact that you may risk to damage your tire and that it may loose pressure during your next ride!

Brgds
Oliver

[towerworker]

I have changed several using just the pair of tire irons and while it requires some effort it got easier each time. I applaud your desire to do it yourself! At least here where I live all the local bike shops or dealers will only install what they sell so that eliminates the previous respondents suggestion.

i am by no means an authority so I hope another joins in with their help as well. I would strongly urge you to get the tire as warm as possible and also lubricate the bead (there are commercial lubes available---I used dish soap and water-seemed to do ok)

My R is in need of a rear tire and I have one on hand but I'm probably a year away from riding(if not longer) due to an illness-----so I guess the tire can wait. Good luck!

Wayne

[Airman]

I've done two sets by hand. Having the right tools is the key. I have three 18" MotionPro tire irons, two nylon rim protectors, and a gallon of "RuGlide", a tire lube from NAPA. You can get all the tools from Motorcycle Superstore, I think. Some will say the dish soap and cut up plastic bottles for rim protectors will do the trick, but I went that route once and found it rough going. And you have to balance the wheel as well. I found the local Honda dealer will change the tires for $14 each off the bike, and in spite of my belief in self reliance, that what I'm going to do this spring when Install the new PR3's.

[zbodan]

Thanks for the replies and advice!

As far as savings are concerned, I would save $77 doing it myself - the few shops that I know of charge $35 per tire.

I did also get a tool to balance it aswell.

I did lubricate the tire with WD-40 and also had plastic rim protectors, but I found myself too afraid after continually making tiny rips on the tire seam and brought it to a shop.

I figured it would be cheaper to be out $40 and have my tire mounted and balanced than it to rip it and have to wait and pay for another tire!

[Beemeridian]

22

[Boxer]

I'm gonna start shipping mine to Germany to have them changed for $5.

[pebmr]

zboden:

I feel your pain... This past fall I changed my own tires with hand tools after running the z6's bare over 15K miles. I did it because I thought I would be a better person afterwards, and it was quite the process! I used the tire irons and lube, broke the beads with a jack and bumper, and struggled mightily to get the old ones off and the new ones on. I too used way too much force and was on the verge of damaging the tire. I stopped, searched more online, and came back the next day. Used plenty of lube, carefully slid the irons a little at a time without too much force, and importantly used some wood blocks and C-clamps to keep the bead already on the tire in the center of the rim as I pryed the rest of it on. The clamps pinch together the portion already on which provides you more slack with the rest you are prying on. Hard to explain, but there are pics somewhere... Also, setting the new bead was quite difficult until I removed the valve core stem and made a direct connection to the valve with the air line. Still had to bounce the tire on the ground repeatedly as I forced air in, but what a satisfying sound it is when the bead finally sets! Good Luck!