While I was in the process of replacing my internal fuel filter, one of the 5 bolts that holds the fuel pump/filter assembly to the tank snapped off. Is this a DIY fix or something that will require BMW and lots of money? I'm hoping that the remaining part of the bolt can be pushed back in to the tank and a new bolt inserted. However, sealing the screw head to prevent fuel leaks is probably makes this a bigger problem. I appreciate all advice.
Thanks,
Ray
Fuel Pump Assembly problem
Moderator: Moderators
Fuel Pump Assembly problem
2004 R1150R
Nowhereistheproof
Nowhereistheproof
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
Not an "official" fix, just from years of experience repairing and maintaing all sorts of light to heavy
equipment.
I would think you could drill out the broken bolt, removing the head along with it from the
inside of the tank, and replace it with a similar sized bolt. I would use some type of adhesive
or epoxy under the head of the bolt to hold it in place and to seal it that won't dissolve with the gas.
If you don't want to do the external filter thing, I'd definitely get myself an inch lb torque wrench
before doing that job again. KD makes a good small wrench available at Amazon reasonably, or
also probly at Harbor Freight.
http://www.amazon.com/2955-Torque-Wrenc ... B00004SQ3B
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-i ... h-239.html
It takes 5 nm or 44 inch lbs. For such small values, I prefer the beam type so you can
see when you're getting close to your value, but the click type works, too.
equipment.
I would think you could drill out the broken bolt, removing the head along with it from the
inside of the tank, and replace it with a similar sized bolt. I would use some type of adhesive
or epoxy under the head of the bolt to hold it in place and to seal it that won't dissolve with the gas.
If you don't want to do the external filter thing, I'd definitely get myself an inch lb torque wrench
before doing that job again. KD makes a good small wrench available at Amazon reasonably, or
also probly at Harbor Freight.
http://www.amazon.com/2955-Torque-Wrenc ... B00004SQ3B
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-i ... h-239.html
It takes 5 nm or 44 inch lbs. For such small values, I prefer the beam type so you can
see when you're getting close to your value, but the click type works, too.
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
Thanks for the advice. I called the BMW dealer and they said I would need to find somebody to weld on a new bolt. Your idea sounds a lot less expensive and I could do it myself. In the meantime, I used some gas friendly permatex around the plate, and torqued the remaining bolts to specs. No leaks and no gas smell... so far.
I do own both in-lb and ft-lb torque wrenches. However, I am embarrassed to admit that I couldn't find the torque specs and just "assumed" 50 ft-lbs. The bolt that broke never reached 50. I then did a more extensive search and found the 44 in-lb torque setting you identified.
Ironically, I met a rider today who had the exact same problem. The shop suggested he use JB weld to attach the plate. It worked, but when his fuel pump died he had to replace the tank.
I do own both in-lb and ft-lb torque wrenches. However, I am embarrassed to admit that I couldn't find the torque specs and just "assumed" 50 ft-lbs. The bolt that broke never reached 50. I then did a more extensive search and found the 44 in-lb torque setting you identified.
Ironically, I met a rider today who had the exact same problem. The shop suggested he use JB weld to attach the plate. It worked, but when his fuel pump died he had to replace the tank.
2004 R1150R
Nowhereistheproof
Nowhereistheproof
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
Yes, those are pretty small bolts.
That JB weld would probly work pretty good to adhere a small bolt into that hole.
I've read that a new O ring is recommended as the existing one can be swollen
from contact with the gas and can be difficult to seal.
Just for the sake of mentioning it -
being you have the tank off and apart, had you considered the external filter thing?
I did that to my 04 that I bought summer of 08 the first time I opened that up for
the filter.
Now I can change fuel filters with just a flat blade screwdriver without taking anything
else apart. With my luck, I had visions of stalling on the road someplace with a plugged
filter. No way to do that job alongside the road.
Here's my write-up - for inside the tank you can re-use the formed short hose and
substitute a short length of hard copper pipe for the filter. Replace all those crimp
type clamps both inside and outside with screw type efi clamps available at any
auto parts place. Being the hard copper replacing the filter won't have any bulges
on the ends to help prevent the hose from slipping off, I'd use 2 clamps on each end.
I did a loop with new hose inside the tank but doing it with the formed existing hose and
a short piece of copper would be easier. I just haven't changed my write-up.
The efi hose is 5/16", and make sure you get clamps that are small enuf to tighten down
real good on that size hose.
Also, you really want to consider the brass quick disconnects from BeemerBoneyard
on the gas lines if you don't have them. When I took mine apart that time, one crumbled.
I had already bought the brass disconnects as I didn't want any problems, and a new O ring.
I didn't want to have the bike apart for a long time waiting for parts.
http://www.mediafire.com/?dj2jjdyjlm0
That JB weld would probly work pretty good to adhere a small bolt into that hole.
I've read that a new O ring is recommended as the existing one can be swollen
from contact with the gas and can be difficult to seal.
Just for the sake of mentioning it -
being you have the tank off and apart, had you considered the external filter thing?
I did that to my 04 that I bought summer of 08 the first time I opened that up for
the filter.
Now I can change fuel filters with just a flat blade screwdriver without taking anything
else apart. With my luck, I had visions of stalling on the road someplace with a plugged
filter. No way to do that job alongside the road.
Here's my write-up - for inside the tank you can re-use the formed short hose and
substitute a short length of hard copper pipe for the filter. Replace all those crimp
type clamps both inside and outside with screw type efi clamps available at any
auto parts place. Being the hard copper replacing the filter won't have any bulges
on the ends to help prevent the hose from slipping off, I'd use 2 clamps on each end.
I did a loop with new hose inside the tank but doing it with the formed existing hose and
a short piece of copper would be easier. I just haven't changed my write-up.
The efi hose is 5/16", and make sure you get clamps that are small enuf to tighten down
real good on that size hose.
Also, you really want to consider the brass quick disconnects from BeemerBoneyard
on the gas lines if you don't have them. When I took mine apart that time, one crumbled.
I had already bought the brass disconnects as I didn't want any problems, and a new O ring.
I didn't want to have the bike apart for a long time waiting for parts.
http://www.mediafire.com/?dj2jjdyjlm0
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
In addition to Macx's tutelage be sure to use R10 (submersible in fuel) fuel injector hose inside the gas tank. And the rest of the fuel injector hose should be R9 (non-submersible). You'll need a foot of the R10 to make a smooth free flowing loop in the tank. Don't skip this as anything other than R10 will break down when immersed in fuel and block up the works.
The NAPA part number is NBH H209 and the Gates part number is 27093, sold in 12 inch segments. Expensive yes but you'll only have to mess with it once.
The NAPA part number is NBH H209 and the Gates part number is 27093, sold in 12 inch segments. Expensive yes but you'll only have to mess with it once.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
I appreciate your advice on the external filter. I had seen your directions and printed them out a while ago. I even found a local supplier with a foot of Gates gas submersible line(supposedly exceeds the R10 specifications). Then, because of a crisis in self-confidence, I brain farted and decided to stay with the internal. Big mistake. After seeing the inside of the tank and replacing the filter, I now realize your directions are very clear and very straight forward.
I just wrote a new post describing how my bike ran fine for 15 miles after the filter change and then quit. I was broken down on the side of the freeway for some time. I wanted to check the fuel filter and connections, however, the gas tank was full and I had no place to drain it.
Unfortunately, it appears that I need to take the tank apart again. This time, however, the filter will be placed externally. I'm glad I have your directions.
Thanks.
I just wrote a new post describing how my bike ran fine for 15 miles after the filter change and then quit. I was broken down on the side of the freeway for some time. I wanted to check the fuel filter and connections, however, the gas tank was full and I had no place to drain it.
Unfortunately, it appears that I need to take the tank apart again. This time, however, the filter will be placed externally. I'm glad I have your directions.
Thanks.
2004 R1150R
Nowhereistheproof
Nowhereistheproof
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
Thanks for the write-up! Being able to easily change the fuel filter on this bike will certainly help with reliability.
Question: I noticed you installed the quick disconnects downstream of the filter. Should you be on the side of the road and need to install a new filter, you will have to drain the tank because as soon as you disconnect the fuel line from the inlet of the filter, fuel will come pouring out. If you installed the quick disconnects before the filter, you would be able to remove the fuel line and have the quick disconnect stop the flow of fuel while you replace the filter.
Your thoughts?
Question: I noticed you installed the quick disconnects downstream of the filter. Should you be on the side of the road and need to install a new filter, you will have to drain the tank because as soon as you disconnect the fuel line from the inlet of the filter, fuel will come pouring out. If you installed the quick disconnects before the filter, you would be able to remove the fuel line and have the quick disconnect stop the flow of fuel while you replace the filter.
Your thoughts?
Re: Fuel Pump Assembly problem
Macx description left out putting the fuel filter down stream of the QR. Perhaps his subtle way of seeing if we are all still walking vertically. Although I've never heard about any of the great apes, chimps, or guerrillas every have lower back problems.
So yes, your thoughts are correct in putting the QR down stream of the filter for minimizing fuel spillage. The QRs are suppose to close up after being disconnected so... Future dealings with changing the fuel filter should be a quick and easy process after the fact.
So yes, your thoughts are correct in putting the QR down stream of the filter for minimizing fuel spillage. The QRs are suppose to close up after being disconnected so... Future dealings with changing the fuel filter should be a quick and easy process after the fact.
Brett
May your friction coefficient always be constant...
May your friction coefficient always be constant...