new vibration after a dropped bike

[sstein]

So, yes, I briefly lost a bit of control of the bike while getting ready to put it on the center stand and the bike fell over onto its right side. I was able to lift from the right handle bar until I got the bike bake righted. Few (more) scratches on the right valve cover, foot peg and right handlebar weight.
Since then, I have ben back on the bike, but I notice that while riding I feel a new uncomfortable vibration in my hands and feet. Like an uncomfortable tickle - intolerable. And when I finish up and get off the bike, my hands and feet have an uncomfortable tingling sensation. I was planning to go away for a few multi-day trips this summer, but it would be too uncomfortable to ride like this.
Any thoughts? Could I have jarred or dislodged something so that there is some uneven rotation somewhere? The bike seems to ride great, does not pull to either side, and shifts and accelerates normally. What's more, if I am coasting and pull in the clutch, and rev the engine as high as 5000 rpms, I don't feel this vibration.
I guess it's time to get serviced...
02 r1150r about 15k miles

Steven

[grwrockster]

High frequency vibes which cause the symptoms you describe are present all the time - but are 'damped' by the bar-end weights (the heavy weight on the bar-end means that the bars can't resonate at the frequency that is annoying and can cause White-finger circulation probs etc.).

So, just in case (after the drop) - you haven't damaged, loosened or knocked off a bar-end weight? (note that I don't mean scratches, but some kind of structural thing - e.g. if you have heated grips, then the bars have cut-outs for the wiring under the grip and before the end-weight connection thread - it might be possible to fracture the bars with an impact and so the weight isn't actually it's job?).

If there is a bar-end weight issue, then that could create the issue you are having. As you seem to think that otherwise the bike is running perfectly (and it's been dropped onto the bars) this would seem like worth a look?

G.

[sstein]

The right bar end weight (which is a kaoko cruise control) was pretty scratched up and even loosened a bit. So you think I should remove it and check for damage inside the weight or to the bar itself?
Thanks for the reply.

[grwrockster]

The bars are pretty tough I reckon, so with luck you are ok and it is just loose.

It's no hardship jsut to unscrew the assembly and peek inside with a torch and see if everything seems together, then see if the bar-end will tighten up properly and is in no way loose afterwards. The try the bike afterwards and hopefully there'll be a positive result!

G.

[sstein]

The saga continues.
The vibration did not really go away, and tonight I was riding on the highway and suddenly lost throttle power. Luckily I had enough momentum and enough power to get over to to the shoulder of the highway safely. Turned off the ignition, then tried to restart the engine but would not turn over. Didn't want to lose the rest of the battery power so put on the hazards and called a tow truck.

Some background: other than the fall and resultant vibration mentioned above in this thread, my battery (don't know how old - came with the bike) was weak at the end of the winter after sitting in the bike outside without a trickle charger all winter. After attaching the trickle charger was able to get it to start, but can hear the engine struggling to turn over, even when the trickle charger light is green.

So can a dying battery cause a loss of power on the highway? A bad stator - possibly damaged in the above mentioned fall?
Ideas?

[sstein]

Should I be checking the stator?

[Sunbeemer]

Wish I had a definitive answer for you, but I can't figure one out from the information available.
If your battery was damaged in the topple, then it could sure cause a stall. The whole bike runs off electricity (computer, injectors, etc) and won't run without it. Maybe the battery has a loose internal or external connector? If it's weak, you might as well replace it. It's good peace of mind, and might prevent this from happening again.

[sstein]

That's what I was thinking to do.
Thanks. I guess I'll see about that vibration.

[Sunbeemer]

Vibration can be caused by imbalance between cylinder output. Many riders have noted how much smoother their bikes run after precisely adjusting valve lash and carefully balancing the throttle bodies. Maybe the throttle bodies were jostled when the bike went over and need to be re-synchronized.

[sstein]

After I replace the battery that will be my next step. Good time to learn those skills anyhoo. Thanks.

[sstein]

Haven't gotten to do anything yet on the battery, valves, or throttle bodies, but while inspecting the bike today noticed something leaking from the junction between the black plastic air intake hose/tube and the throttle body assembly, just past the clamp. There appears to be some sort of adjustment screw pointing downwards from the throttle body and that seems to be where the fluid (gas? oil? ) is leaking. Nothing on the ground under the bike, but there is some seepage to the vapor hose from the bottom of the throttle body and the wire from the throttle position sensing unit. I hope this makes sense. I would post pics but have had a hard time doing that in the past.
Thoughts?

Steven

[sstein]

I gave up. Off to Razee service center. Not enough time to deal with it.

[Sunbeemer]

I suspect that is oil leaking from the air box down the intake tubes. Usually excess oil (from an over-filled crankcase) is expelled through a breather vent hose into the airbox and there is a drain plug in the left rear corner that can be removed for inspection. Maybe the tip-over resulted in oil being pushed into the breather hose and then inot the airbox and it isnow finding it's way out. Maybe the cause of your vibration?

Good luck and let us know what you discover.

[sstein]

Tip over was onto the right side.

[sstein]

A quick update. The bike stopped on the highway because I ran out of fuel...

I got a carbtune pro TB sync device and found that the TBs are balanced. I also got a new battery and the bike is starting and running great. Next step is to check the valve clearances. These are all new experiences for me. Fun.

New issue: I ordered and received an MRA vario sport screen. It is mounted on brackets which are fastened via the 2 lateral headlight bracket bolts to the bottom of the upper fork bridge.
When I went to put in one of the bolt, I idiotically cross threaded it. Can't get it to go now. I bought a thread tap in the right measurements but I can't line it up with the hole because the headlight bracket is in the way. I'm thinking I may have to remove the upper fork bridge in order to flip it over and get better access. Is that a major process? Any great ideas out there?

Another option is to first remove just the headlight bracket which will reveal the hole better, but then I am sort of working upside down. I'll probably start with that and then go from there.

Can't manage to do anything right!! But I am not giving up yet.

[gregor]

When I swapped a screen recently I manage to cross thread a female thread. I sorted it by filing four tapered flats on a spare bolt and carefully working it in to and fro. A dim memory of being taught that by my old Dad decades ago.

[sstein]

Gregor,
I do have a spare, can you elaborate just a bit on how you did that?

Thanks for the (non-judgmental) reply.
Steven

[dechaoz05]

i dropped my 1150r on the right a week ago, and the weird vibration after that too. the only thing scratched up is the valve guard, the bar end is not touched.

the only thing I checked was the valve clearance, which is good. haven't done anything else yet. my battery works fine though.

on a journey to figure out where this vibration is coming from. best of luck to the both of us!

[gregor]

Hi Steven,

Check that the spare screw will easily enter the good thread OK at the correct angle.
Grip the screw head in a vice (vise) and file four long angled flats on a taper. ie looking at the bolt tip end on a square will result. I used a large fairly rough file . Clean off any filings/swarf with a wire brush. Ensure the end of the screw has a smaller diameter than the hole and inset cautiously, into the damaged thread, at the correct angle- keeping the bolt axis aligned with the hole axis as you insert.Screw in slightly and back the screw off a little bit and reinsert a bit more each time once you are confident you are picking up the female thread. Clean any swarf/tramp metal off the bolt as necessary. With luck the newly filed flats will clear the damaged threads. Not as good as a proper tapered tap but it worked for me. No guarantees mind you.

[sstein]

Excellent instructions....will give that a try. The bolt is about 2 inches long - I will taper maybe the distal 0.5 inches. Sound right?