Removing lock from 28L Top Case

[Bigg-Brother]

Hey guys!
I just got 2013 RT today and want to move my 28L Top Box from my R to the new bike. I was wondering if any of you know how to remove the lock, so I can re-key it.

I know I can take it to the dealer but besides this advice - any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Peter

[websterize]

This worked for me. http://www.ebbo.org/re_keying.php

[Bigg-Brother]

Thank you.
I saw this post already. Did you use these on 28L top case?
When I looked through the opening, I did not see same features - just a simple slot and it looked far from the lock.

[SF_Hooligan]

Thank you.
I saw this post already. Did you use these on 28L top case?
When I looked through the opening, I did not see same features - just a simple slot and it looked far from the lock.

It definitely works - I've recently R&R'ed locks from two 49L and one 28L cases. The slot is not really that far from the lock and there are some notes on that page about how the newer cases are. In my experience, the 28L was the easiest - once I had created my tool and got a feel for it, the lock in the 28L cases popped right out.

Make sure you make your tool stiff enough. The first tool I created based on his design was too flexy. Check out out how I wrapped the paperclip around the screwdriver and braced it against the flat area. Also, check out the length of the piece that goes through the slot.



Then I taped the crap out of it to keep it from moving.



Like I said, the 28L was super easy - I could take that one out and put it back in all day long. But I sold it to another dude who took it to the dealer to have it rekeyed (I kept my lock) and they screwed it up somehow and had to give him a new case.

The 49Ls were trickier - one was really tough to get just right. But what that page says is true - once you get the location right, the effort to pop it is almost nothing. Follow those instructions and be patient.

[David R]

My dealer said it couldn't be done.

New bike, New cases, two different keys. I took the bike and cases home and did it my self using the link above. No kit, it happened that 3 of the tumblers or wafers matched up with the bike key. I just removed the ones that did not. Works perfect.

For the tool, I used TIG welding rod 1/16".

If my dealer could not key the lock to match, then I really don't think they can change the oil either. 12,000 miles on the bike so far, has not been back to them. If it needs dealer service I will truck the bike to another dealer. I am a mechanic and I play one at work.

David

[SF_Hooligan]

My dealer said it couldn't be done.

I did it myself because when I talked to local dealers about it they said stuff like "Well, we can but sometimes it doesn't go well and we could end up having to take apart the case and it'll be billed by the hour." Then the guy that bought my 28L had it replaced by the dealer because they screwed it up somehow (see above) and that was with the lock already removed by me. All they had to do was pop in the new lock!

I actually took apart a 49L case too, and successfully put it back together. Beyond the screws, it's just a matter of R&R'ing 2 rivets and being patient about getting everything popped into the right place. BMW way over-complicates things with this double-wall case design and the resulting linkages inside. But that can be done too - although if you do a search you'll get lots of people saying that taking it apart results in the case being junked. I couldn't find any diagrams or real info other than "some rivets will have to be removed."

But I can sympathize - your dealer may just be protecting themselves from hours of messing with a topcase. One of the cases I did the lock on was really hard to find the spot in and took a long time. It's a losing proposition for a dealer - either they have to tell you "Well, it's hourly" to R&R the lock, which seems expensive, or they quote a flat rate and potentially end up messing with it for a while.

[hjsbmw]

I used the same online instructions but found it finicky to find the release into which to push the 'special tool', mainly because I couldn't see what was going on inside the guts of the case.

In my case I had to talk to a few dealerships online and locally until someone was willing to sell me a rekey kit. The first few of them claimed only a dealer was allowed to do this work. Something about possible theft and legal issues. They wanted me to send in the case and have them do it. The Greensboro, NC dealer finally sold me the kit. I had gotten mentally prepared to have them do the work, but they plainly told me to do it myself and save money. Nice guys.

[David R]

My dealer said it couldn't be done.

I did it myself because when I talked to local dealers about it they said stuff like "Well, we can but sometimes it doesn't go well and we could end up having to take apart the case and it'll be billed by the hour."

Snip

It's a losing proposition for a dealer - either they have to tell you "Well, it's hourly" to R&R the lock, which seems expensive, or they quote a flat rate and potentially end up messing with it for a while.

The bike, cases and locks were all purchased new. Locks do not come in the cases and cost $35.00 each. They even had me leave a key to the bike so when the cases and locks came in it would be done.

Then when I picked up the cases they said it can't be done.

Just not too bright in my opinion.

David

[SF_Hooligan]

My dealer said it couldn't be done.

I did it myself because when I talked to local dealers about it they said stuff like "Well, we can but sometimes it doesn't go well and we could end up having to take apart the case and it'll be billed by the hour."

Snip

It's a losing proposition for a dealer - either they have to tell you "Well, it's hourly" to R&R the lock, which seems expensive, or they quote a flat rate and potentially end up messing with it for a while.

The bike, cases and locks were all purchased new. Locks do not come in the cases and cost $35.00 each. They even had me leave a key to the bike so when the cases and locks came in it would be done.

Then when I picked up the cases they said it can't be done.

Just not too bright in my opinion.

David

Wait... so they said they couldn't put the new locks in the new cases, which as you said arrive with no locks in them at all? They don't even have to pull the locks and that's the hard part. Rekeying the locks once out of the case is easy. Ridiculous.

[Bigg-Brother]

Thank you all for advise - I will make this stiffer tool and see if it works this weekend.

Peter

[David R]

Wait... so they said they couldn't put the new locks in the new cases, which as you said arrive with no locks in them at all? They don't even have to pull the locks and that's the hard part. Rekeying the locks once out of the case is easy. Ridiculous.

Yes the locks were out. They said the could not be keyed to my bike. I went home and did it my self with no kit. Proof any ahole can do it.

I stand by my original statement.

I don't think they are too bright.

David

[nephets]

Hi,

I recently bought a 28L Top Case and lock. The lock came with 2 keys.

My first thought was to rekey the lock to the ignition key. Back in 2007, the bike only came with one metal key. Could I rekey the ignition and seat locks to match the case and that way have 2 keys for the bike? I seem to remember the ignition has some additional electronic security which is able to identify the original key - or was that a bit of sales BS?

Thanks,

Steve.

[Bigg-Brother]

Success! Lock came out and now I have top case on my new RT!

That screwdriver tool worked great - took me 10 minutes and I was done!

Thank you all again.

Peter

[dbrick]

Hi,

I recently bought a 28L Top Case and lock. The lock came with 2 keys.

My first thought was to rekey the lock to the ignition key. Back in 2007, the bike only came with one metal key. Could I rekey the ignition and seat locks to match the case and that way have 2 keys for the bike? I seem to remember the ignition has some additional electronic security which is able to identify the original key - or was that a bit of sales BS?

Steve,

No B.S. There is a chip in the key that's read by the bike's ignition system. The recognition is electronic, and cannot be changed. A key that'll start your bike is only available from a dealer to whom you've presented proof of ownership. So: a) if you want a second ignition key, you'll have to buy one from the dealer, and b) if you want the single key you carry to operate all the locks, the lock will have to be removed from the top case and its internals messed with.

[nephets]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the explanation. I wonder how the chip works as there is no direct connection, nor battery in the key?

Either way, my resolution was to rekey the top case and panniers to work with both my ignition key and the keys that came with the new top case. I only had to remove 1 wafer. So I now have an ignition key for all locks and a key for the luggage only which I can give the wife and a spare luggage key.

Also, I forgot to mention that I bought the top case, rack and lock from BMW Countrywide using the PROMO 15 discount, saved me the tax and $120 - what a deal.

So, all's well that ends well.

Steve.

[dbrick]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the explanation. I wonder how the chip works as there is no direct connection, nor battery in the key?

I'll try: when a key is inserted in the ignition lock, and turns the lock from "off" to "on," the bike broadcasts a tiny RF signal; that signal is used by the matching chip in the key (you're right: there is no battery in the key) to respond, in effect: "Yes, I am the correct key." If the bike "sees" the correct key, the ignition is enabled and the bike will start and run. If the bike doesn't see the correct key, either the bike won't start or it'll quit after a few seconds - I don't remember which. The bike broadcasts its signal and receives the chip's reply via a small antenna that surrounds the ignition lock.

Either way, my resolution was to rekey the top case and panniers to work with both my ignition key and the keys that came with the new top case. I only had to remove 1 wafer. So I now have an ignition key for all locks and a key for the luggage only which I can give the wife and a spare luggage key.

Also, I forgot to mention that I bought the top case, rack and lock from BMW Countrywide using the PROMO 15 discount, saved me the tax and $120 - what a deal.

So, all's well that ends well.

Indeed! A great resolution all around.