rear brake (ABS) dragging

[peels]

I am still looking for advice on my poor MPG, and this is a continuation of that thread.

after some testing, I have realized I don't believe it has anything to do with the motor or tuning. Im thinking it is my rear brake dragging. I have a 2002 1150r. with the servo ABS. Learned that after a couple of mistakes(and messes) the other day. I didn't realize the caliper was on a different circuit than the pedal.... So I'm still learning here, and need some help.

here's the symptoms.

-LOW MPG.
-fast wear of rear pads.
-If I don't even touch my pedal for 10 minute ride, I'm still finding the hot disc, and squeezed caliper.
SO it appears its tightening up on its own, and I just don't totally understand this.....

I did a flush and bleed last night of the caliper's circuit. I did not do the pedal circuit. And, It had tightened itself up and was still hot after the ride this morning. even after checking the caliper was plenty loose before leaving.

What should I do next? Keeping in mind, I don't want to dump ANY $ into it, only to have the ABS fail and have to RE-do it. And, on that note, I would just replace the lines NOW, but I'm not convinced that would solve it.

is it the lines(they all look pristine, and no crap came out....is it the caliper...or worse, the abs itself?

A little lost here. ANY help is appreciated! THANKS!

[peels]

OK a little research.

I did not know the rear was linked to the back on the servo sytem AT ALL. crap. lol that would explain the "self tightening" of the pads-that sucks, I don't like that.

so I was leaning towards collapsed hose inside. A'LA this video. However, I AM able to push pistons, unlike in the vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1htb2yiL2k

so maybe its a problem with the caliper itself.

Also, perhaps, I did not clean the pins as good as I thought....Will do when new pads come.

after that....its ABS Id think.

what else could it be?

[chibbert]

I haven't anything to offer but I'm intently waiting to see if you solve your mileage problem once you get this worked out.

[AZBMWRIDER]

I know nothing about the master cylinders on these bikes, I'm a long time airhead rider .
Every once in a while, I'll see a posting on an airhead forum that a brake won't release .
A common cause, is a small orifice in the area of the supply port for the mater cylinder piston .
If that orifice gets clogged, the brake won't release fully .
Normally if you have the cover off of the master cylinder reservoir, when you release the brake laver, a small jet of fluid comes out of this hole .
Don't know if this will help you find your issue or not .

[peels]

Iv'e watched this 3 times in the last 2 days lol makes me laugh every time. The only thing stopping me from doing this procedure, is I'm afraid Ill screw it up, due to it being a different bike-diff wiring... and not having brakes or something. When I'm taking a short trip in 2 weeks. But, I did find I have those relays at work already.... So for now, when the pads get here, ill just go through it all again, and make sure its safe. Ill go further in depth this time. I had just had a "freakout moment" when I had no fluid coming out. thought for sure I'd f**ked up the servo system

also, i prefer my "cheapskate" fuel connectors. way easier than the QD's. Gettin good at tank removal now. Even had my son take some screws out. I didn't notice, but he was wearing rollerblades LOL



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xZMewBazMI

edit: also wanted to add: please be sure you plug everything back in before mounting tank. I removed this plug(im assuming level sensor) so I could more easily tighten the abs reservoir cap. AFTER I had checked that the idiot light was out. oops. put back together plug still out, idiot light on. derp

[swamper]

can you disable the abs by removing a Fuse. I haven't a clue as ours don't have ABS.

[vwdoctor]

Take it out an move on. It is easy and costs nothing. Of course you will die because of no ABS.

[peels]

Take it out an move on. It is easy and costs nothing. Of course you will die because of no ABS.

hahahaha

NOTED.

[spoon]

On my Rockster (same ABS) I have to remove the rear caliper and clean and lube the slide pins about twice a year. The inside pad will wear faster than the outside. No need to remove the caliper from the hose to do this.

[peels]

Na-na-na-na hey-hey-hey! I have removed the wart from beneath my tank. And I measured 14.3 lbs with fluid.

to paraphrase the late great B B KIng.... (RIP) "the SQUEAL is gone" That was one of the things I was "living with" but. sitting on an incline, at a light. The whine would drive me bananas. And people always were lookin at me funny.

I do not miss this squeal. Plus, I was able to put my finger on my disc this morning and not lose my fingerprint. Luke warm to to the touch... AND, The front brakes, are WAY better WITHOUT the ABS. Ill put up a thread when I get pics to load.

Also, Ill say again, I don't think the ABS is bad. I just think, this particular design, is better suited to a heavier bike. I dont think it would bother me in a loaded down RT.

Ill withhold my judgment on whether or not this solves my fuel dilemma, but definitely report my next MPG measurement.

[swamper]

Interesting outcome. Why do you think the front brakes are better if the ABS system was in working order.

[peels]

Interesting outcome. Why do you think the front brakes are better if the ABS system was in working order.

to clarify: I prefer them now without. Its more "motorcycley" the unassisted brakes are very strong. WITH the servo, there is an ever-so-slight delay. Its not really discernable or worth complaining about, but it then becomes "grabby" to make up for this. Also, you can feel the servo working which is "odd" but not bothersome.

I had no problems with the front brakes. I think my problem was something stuck in the rear circuit. some Goo came out of the metal lines. So when I thought I wasnt using my rear brakes in order to test my theory, I actually WAS via the linked servo. ALSO. I just didnt like the fact that they were linked. I found that silly. Having previously contemplated removing the servo, learning about the linked brakes pushed my desire up to NOW.

All of this, I wouldn't say is "BAD" per se. Its just fine, and it works. But more just not ideal to my riding. It's something to be worked with, or worked around for me. I Just found it to be unnecessary to the naked bike. WAY more at home on a huge highway tourer like the RT where one might be loaded down and see many different conditions in a short time. I am not that person.

the servo abs worked just fine too. Might try to sell it....

[vwdoctor]

ONe thing I noticed is that rear brake is not very useful. When breaking fully with the front brakes (which are great), a slight pressure on the rear will cause the rear wheel to lock up. I guess there is very little weight left on the rear wheel under heavy braking.

[peels]

ONe thing I noticed is that rear brake is not very useful. When breaking fully with the front brakes (which are great), a slight pressure on the rear will cause the rear wheel to lock up. I guess there is very little weight left on the rear wheel under heavy braking.

yep this is my experience with many bikes. My style of riding has always been, give it a little rear first to settle in and put weight on the front, then hit the fronts, gradually let off rear. The front brake will unload the rear suspension.

[vwdoctor]

My main reason for dumping the servo is inconsistency. The system trains you to use very light touch on the brake, and they can be really grabby at low speeds (not good). After being conditioned to use light touch, I almost ended up in the garage wall couple of times when I was moving the bike without a key. And lets not forget the noise.
As an added bonus, front brake is much, much better now and it is easy to modulate it to your liking. Before it was more "on/off" feeling. My servo was working fine when I took it off, and after a couple of months of rolling it around the garage I threw it out (together with charcoal canister).

[peels]

some pics. was easier than I thought, but still time consuming. One of the bigger unexpected hassles was snaking the rear brake circuit out. practically had to mangle it. ALso, the front brake connector, I crossthreaded the bolt it when putting the lines back on that bracket. I put on a thick rubber washer. which actually allows it to move a little along with the steering.

I do not regret this procedure one bit. I spent exactly ZERO dollars. 7.99 if you include the beer.

Here's the squealy bugga' all 14 lbs of it.




the wiring was quite easy. I did mess up a couple times(because I'm impatient). But the guidance from sweatmark made it less confusing.



just follow these steps EXACTLY. lifted from this thread on UKgser:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread ... ABS-system



1) Remove the blue ABS relay from the fusebox. This will extinguish the 'Brake Failure' warning light on the dash and as a bonus can be used to operate the brake light !!
(no need for new switches as in other methods )
2) Strip back the sheathing from the ABS multi pin connector - identify wires and connect as follows
a) Grey/White wire (tail light feed) Grey/Black wire (12v feed) cut both and join together - thats your tail light sorted.
b) White/Yellow wire (front brake switch) and Yellow/Green wire (rear brake switch). Cut these two wires and join them to link brake switches
Now the wiring to the redundant 4 pin ABS relay
c) Pin 1 - Connect white/blue wire
d) Pin 2 - connect the THIN solid brown wire in the loom to provide a ground ( careful here - there are several brown wires c/w coloured traces and a Thick brown wire)
e) Pin 3 - Find the Yellow/Black wire and the solid green wire. Cut and connect these together and then to pin 3 of the relay
f) Pin 4 - Connect grey/yellow (tail light feed) to this pin

now, I have a handy beer holder. you can see how I "mounted" the relay. zip ties for the win!

[vwdoctor]

I didnt want to cut the wires on mine, so I just separated the electrical from the hydraulic.

[peels]

I didnt want to cut the wires on mine, so I just separated the electrical from the hydraulic.

I saw that style too.... whatever works.

Just hoping this finally solves my fuel economy problem. It almost HAS to be this. Brake discs wearing out in less than a year and less than 3000 miles....

[sweatmark]

Peels, glad your xABS worked out.

Was reminded this weekend of the difference between iABS1 brake feel and OE non-ABS with just the Evo calipers and discs: airhead riding buddy and I rode some old & new favorite roads in NorCal, including mountain single lane switchbacks. It was always hard to be smooth in tight turn braking-throttle transitions with iABS; the non-ABS Evo brakes do a great job and provide nice feel. When heading down steep rough road approaching a tight corner with no guard rail and 100ft cliff edge, my strong preference is for smooth brake control, strong stopping power, and reliability.

Shame that there's no simple add-on option for single channel, front wheel, non-boosted ABS.

[cgguy09]

Peelz,
Wait, so was the ABS/Servo actually causing the rear brake to drag? I think mine might be slightly dragging too? I dont think I'll remove the ABS system but Did you come across another fix?