Front Brakes Spew Purple Fluid

[philm35]

We've been enjoying unseasonably warm weather this week here in Cincinnati (Thank you, global warming!), so I thought I'd get the Roadster out for a ride. It's been sitting in the garage unused for the last few months.

Thanks to the Battery Tender, the bike started right up. As I rolled it toward the garage door, I noticed a puddle of purple fluid on the floor by the front wheel. A closer look revealed fluid all over the front wheel, and even a splash on the black plastic front fender and the telelever. It appears that a seal inside the right front brake caliper blew out, and leaked the fluid. Also, the brake failure light is flashing.

I've been around this board for quite a while, and I've never seen anything like this mentioned. What is going on?

Sadly, since our local dealership just closed, I'm going to have to find a way to get the bike up to Columbus for repair.

--Phil
2004 R1150RA (Titan Silver, purple fluid)

[Rootin55]

I assume you know what brake fluid does to painted surfaces......get it off quickly. I seem to remember that Jaimas (sry if misspelled) had a similar experience. Hopefully he will chime in.

[philm35]

Definitely... I got all of the fluid cleaned up as soon as I saw the spill. Hopefully no long term paint damage.

--Phil

[mitchxout]

Wow, that sucks for you. Is your bike still under warranty? There's a good lesson to be learned though-don't let your bike sit for such long periods. It was suffering form separation anxiety and wet itself in anticipation of going out for a ride!

[philm35]

After calming down a bit, I went and looked at the situation again. It turns out that the purple fluid is coming out of the right side fork. It appears to be a fork-seal failure. By bouncing the up and down on the front suspension, I can make the fork oil flow freely from the seal.

Seems like this bike is way too new to be having a problem like this.

--Phil

[Paul Mihalka]

The good part is that with the telelever bikes the fork fluid in the fork legs is not critical. It is there only for lubrication, not dampening. If it was mine, I would not hesitate to ride it to the dealer. Now what about the brake warning light flashing?

[mitchxout]

Here's a bit of fyi for you. It's important to spray something like WD40 on the forks tubes above the seals and let it run down to the seals. This will keep the rubber plyable and make 'em last longer.

But even still, bikes don't like to sit for extended periods, even new ones. Fork seals are minor, but crank seals are major. I think you should hire me to ride your bike, for the bike's sake.

[jamais]

" Also, the brake failure light is flashing."

Is this the normal flashing light that occurs as a self test? Remember the bike's brakes cannot be applied when the system self test is being conducted.

Despite having it on a tender, the battery could be low. You didn't mention if you rode it since the struts were leaking fluid. Sometimes after the battery is fully charged you can shut down the bike, turn the ignition switch on and allow a system check and everything will test fine due to the battery being topped off by the alternator.

I don't know if this will occur during the self test but did any of the fluid drip down onto the front wheel abs sensor? Are any of the little cutouts in the abs ring filled with fluid, resulting in an erroneous reading by the sensor?

[philm35]

OK, I'm an idiot... the flashing brake indicator was a red herring.

I convinced myself so thoroughly that the purple fluid was coming out of the brake caliper, when I saw the light flashing, that just confirmed what I already "knew".

In reality, the brake indicator always flashes until you get the bike up to 3-4 MPH... its part of the ABS test sequence.

It's amazing how your brain can just cease to function when unexplained fluids spew from your bike.

Any suggestions for cleaning the fork oil out of the brake caliper? It got all over the inside of the right side caliper and rotor. Brake cleaner? Also, how tough a job is it to replace the fork seal?

--Phil

[Paul Mihalka]

Hydraulic brake parts and seals do NOT like mineral oil. That oil around the brake caliper pistons can do a lot of damage. Clean the caliper with brake-clean and keep your fingers crossed. If the fork oil got onto the brake pads you will need new ones. Also do the brake-clean job on the brake disk.

[CycleRob]

What about the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty?

The dealer may claim neglect if the chrome forktube is rust pitted or very dirty. Maybe not. They also may replace everything, including the ruined brakepads without any grief. Call the dealer, talk it over and make your appointment.

If you're warranty has expired, remove the forktube and take it to BMW for a better price . . . after making sure the new parts are there.

I do not recommend changing the seals yourself IF you have never done so before. Stumbling thru the seal replacement without the seal driver tool (can use PVC pipe substitute) or prior experience can let you unknowingly damage very expen$ive parts. The dealer will also parts wash the mucky internals, airgun dry the parts, install the lubed seals and add the exact amount of the proper oil.

EDIT:
BTW, does everyone know about our 2006 East Coast Beakster Bash (number 3) in May? I just talked on the phone with a board member that was not aware of it. Go to Group Rides Section and read the 6 plus pages.