TomTom Rider - power off bike
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TomTom Rider - power off bike
Hi,
I've ordered a TomTom Rider which I understand can be hardwired to the bike to draw power - it's not arrived yet, so I haven't seen the manual - but could you tell me where specifically can I wire it into on the bike?
I have a 2005 R850R Classic/Comfort, but no manual or wiring diagram. I'm guessing the options are either direct to the battery with an inline fuse, or somewhere off the loom near the front - anyone already done this please?
Grateful for any tips!
I've ordered a TomTom Rider which I understand can be hardwired to the bike to draw power - it's not arrived yet, so I haven't seen the manual - but could you tell me where specifically can I wire it into on the bike?
I have a 2005 R850R Classic/Comfort, but no manual or wiring diagram. I'm guessing the options are either direct to the battery with an inline fuse, or somewhere off the loom near the front - anyone already done this please?
Grateful for any tips!
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JerryTreeXprt
- Basic User
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:23 pm
I just hooked up my Garmin 2610 on my 1100S. I was able to splice into a hot lead and ground that go to the relay for my dual Fiamm horns. Nice 'n' easy since it's right up front and it's already got an inline fuse right off of the battery. It's got power all the time so I can mess with it while I'm stopped.
As far as mounting it on the bike, here is how I did it. May be a bit different on the 1150R since it has the tubular bars. After mounting, I realized that I should've mounted it on the left side of the bike so I don't have to reach for it if I need to play with it on the fly. Since I cut the cable to the length I need I'll check it out as is and see if it's annoying enough to warrant a change.
If you want to see the wiring for the horn, go here and scroll down the page-many pics and good description of the whole process.

As far as mounting it on the bike, here is how I did it. May be a bit different on the 1150R since it has the tubular bars. After mounting, I realized that I should've mounted it on the left side of the bike so I don't have to reach for it if I need to play with it on the fly. Since I cut the cable to the length I need I'll check it out as is and see if it's annoying enough to warrant a change.
If you want to see the wiring for the horn, go here and scroll down the page-many pics and good description of the whole process.

wiring a Garmin
I got the lead from a battery tender, and ran it to the handlebars.
Spliced another connector to the cig lighter adapter for my garmin.
Also, any 12 volt device can be used, simply by splicing the connector to the power cord.
Spliced another connector to the cig lighter adapter for my garmin.
Also, any 12 volt device can be used, simply by splicing the connector to the power cord.
Having had a look under the front, do you think running it off the horn is a good idea? - its about the right distance away from the bars & isn't hugely critical to the running of the bike if something goes wrong.
There look to be two leads - a brown & a green/yellow - which one's positive / negative please? Apologies for the numpty questions, must get a Clymer...
Thanks!
There look to be two leads - a brown & a green/yellow - which one's positive / negative please? Apologies for the numpty questions, must get a Clymer...
Thanks!
This is the best way to add power for an accessory, IMO, because it is simple and secure, and involves no cutting of wires. I suggest that you connect to a non-essential, keyed power circuit, such as the one for the heated grips. It is really simple to do this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=071-580

Assuming the TomTom does not draw much power, you can just hook the negative of the GPS unit to ground and the positive to the red wire on this circuit. You can only draw a few amps on this, though. If you are powering something more substantial, such as driving lights, you must use a relay.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=071-580

Assuming the TomTom does not draw much power, you can just hook the negative of the GPS unit to ground and the positive to the red wire on this circuit. You can only draw a few amps on this, though. If you are powering something more substantial, such as driving lights, you must use a relay.
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
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JerryTreeXprt
- Basic User
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:23 pm
My power doesn't come directly from the horn, it is a fused hot lead directly off of the battery that runs to the relay for the aftermarket horns. rdsmith has a nice, easy add on as well. I'd avoid wiring to a keyed circuit and find an always on line so that you can mess with the gps and not have the key switched on while you're parked.
JerryJerryTreeXprt wrote:My power doesn't come directly from the horn, it is a fused hot lead directly off of the battery that runs to the relay for the aftermarket horns. rdsmith has a nice, easy add on as well. I'd avoid wiring to a keyed circuit and find an always on line so that you can mess with the gps and not have the key switched on while you're parked.
I don't actually own a GPS unit so I will defer to your judgment about always-on power. However, if you accidentally leave it on in your garage, would it run the batter down, or is the power draw very slight?
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
As far as switched or unswitched power, it depends on the specific GPS unit. I've had two GPS' on my bike; a Garmin GPS V and now a Garmin 276C. The power management functions of each unit was different enough that on the GPS V I used unswitched power and on the 276C I use switched power.
Both units supported operating on battery or external power. The 276C has a rechargable battery and will automatically power down 30 seconds after external power is removed. It will also power up when external power is applied. It just made sense to use switched power for the 276C.
For unswitched power, I connect directly to the battery and use an inline fuse. For switched power, I use the device rdsimth3 suggested.
Both units supported operating on battery or external power. The 276C has a rechargable battery and will automatically power down 30 seconds after external power is removed. It will also power up when external power is applied. It just made sense to use switched power for the 276C.
For unswitched power, I connect directly to the battery and use an inline fuse. For switched power, I use the device rdsimth3 suggested.
Now I'm curious
Pardon my ignorance. What's a Tom Tom Rider?
I removed my tank ahd hard wired the GPS to the battery wth an inline fuse. I guess I did it the hard way from what I read here.
I removed my tank ahd hard wired the GPS to the battery wth an inline fuse. I guess I did it the hard way from what I read here.
Morrie,
Removing the tank is always my last resort. There are so many things that can go wrong that I don't tempt Murphy's law. The O rings on the fuel line disconnects can get messed up; the crimps on the disconnects can get messed up; the vent hoses can get switched; the tank can get dropped; the rubber-encased nuts can get deformed; and so on and so on.
With the little device I mentioned above, you just remove your seat, remove a fuse, and insert that thing, and you have a hot wire.
Removing the tank is always my last resort. There are so many things that can go wrong that I don't tempt Murphy's law. The O rings on the fuel line disconnects can get messed up; the crimps on the disconnects can get messed up; the vent hoses can get switched; the tank can get dropped; the rubber-encased nuts can get deformed; and so on and so on.
With the little device I mentioned above, you just remove your seat, remove a fuse, and insert that thing, and you have a hot wire.
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
Thanks for the replies & advice.
Ordered some ring-terminals & an inline fuse holder, but as the TomTom GPS arrived first, I decided to break in via the horn. I foolishly didn't check that it would run first off the battery directly & did a lot of head scratching when it wouldn't work when correctly wired in to the horn.
Nett result is that I have all the stuff I need to do this properly now, but needlessly chopped wires on my new bike and still have to wait for TomTom to ship me a replacement power cable ...
Ho-hum
Ordered some ring-terminals & an inline fuse holder, but as the TomTom GPS arrived first, I decided to break in via the horn. I foolishly didn't check that it would run first off the battery directly & did a lot of head scratching when it wouldn't work when correctly wired in to the horn.
Nett result is that I have all the stuff I need to do this properly now, but needlessly chopped wires on my new bike and still have to wait for TomTom to ship me a replacement power cable ...
Ho-hum
Dumb question - does anyone know if the battery icon changes whilst the TomTom Rider is powered off the bike?
Mine changes to a "filling-up" battery icon when charging off the mains, and my TomTom GO also has the same charging icon when running off the cigar-lighter in the car, but no dice on the Rider.
I've had a new bike power cable sent to me, but nothing doing - I'm just checking that the icon is supposed to change! If so, then I guess they'll send me a new cradle next...
Thanks in advance.
Mine changes to a "filling-up" battery icon when charging off the mains, and my TomTom GO also has the same charging icon when running off the cigar-lighter in the car, but no dice on the Rider.
I've had a new bike power cable sent to me, but nothing doing - I'm just checking that the icon is supposed to change! If so, then I guess they'll send me a new cradle next...
Thanks in advance.