Anyone got any advice on getting non-ABS brakes on Rs and Rocksters PROPERLY bled??
The only way I can see to do this job properly is to take the tank off so that the bleed nipple on the junction box mounted to the frame can be accessed decently.
I find that I ALWAYS have spongy brakes because I have yet to bleed from that area.
has anyone replaced the hoses with a straight run from m/c to callipers?
Bleeding NON-ABS brakes
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- riceburner
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The best way is a suction tool that that pulls the fluid out of the bleed nipple. I beleive MPS do one, can't remember the name though.
Cheapskates can use a large syringe and some rubber tube, which works pretty well.
Make sure the reservoirs full. Put rubber tube on furthest bleed nipple. make sure syringe plunger is fully in and connect to rubber hose. crack the bleed nipple draw syringe out. Hopefully all the old oil and air will be drawn out. Don't forget to keep an eye on the reservoir
It sometimes helps to put grease (vaselene) around the outside of the nipple to stop air being drawn in past the threads, air here won't do any harm but will give a false impression of how much air was in the system.
Cheapskates can use a large syringe and some rubber tube, which works pretty well.
Make sure the reservoirs full. Put rubber tube on furthest bleed nipple. make sure syringe plunger is fully in and connect to rubber hose. crack the bleed nipple draw syringe out. Hopefully all the old oil and air will be drawn out. Don't forget to keep an eye on the reservoir
It sometimes helps to put grease (vaselene) around the outside of the nipple to stop air being drawn in past the threads, air here won't do any harm but will give a false impression of how much air was in the system.
Last edited by single650 on Mon Jun 12, 2006 8:47 am, edited 2 times in total.
'03 R1150R Rockster
'94 K75s
'94 K75s
- riceburner
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My normal method is the tried and true "Pressurise the system at the lever, crack the bleed nipple and reseal without letting off the lever". Has worked for me for ages (I can get a 550Zephyr with crap sliding calipers to stand on the front wheel using this method) - but the problem is that blinkin 3rd bleed nipple half-way through the system.
May have to try that syringe method - but will it suck air away from a dead-end trap?
May have to try that syringe method - but will it suck air away from a dead-end trap?
It's a Mityvac, £35. The Draper one way valve kit underneath at £8.99 is probably as good tho...single650 wrote:The best way is a suction tool that that pulls the fluid out of the bleed nipple. I beleive MPS do one, can't remember the name though.
Cheapskates can use a large syringe and some rubber tube, which works pretty well.
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=533338
I just did mine.riceburner wrote:My normal method is the tried and true "Pressurise the system at the lever, crack the bleed nipple and reseal without letting off the lever". Has worked for me for ages (I can get a 550Zephyr with crap sliding calipers to stand on the front wheel using this method) - but the problem is that blinkin 3rd bleed nipple half-way through the system.
May have to try that syringe method - but will it suck air away from a dead-end trap?

I even drained the system.
Never mind the third nipple. concentrate on the pair at the bottom.
The enjoyment (DIY) is beyond words.
Lifer #276.


- riceburner
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BMWkidd wrote:I just did mine.riceburner wrote:My normal method is the tried and true "Pressurise the system at the lever, crack the bleed nipple and reseal without letting off the lever". Has worked for me for ages (I can get a 550Zephyr with crap sliding calipers to stand on the front wheel using this method) - but the problem is that blinkin 3rd bleed nipple half-way through the system.
May have to try that syringe method - but will it suck air away from a dead-end trap?
I even drained the system.
Never mind the third nipple. concentrate on the pair at the bottom.![]()
The enjoyment (DIY) is beyond words.
errrrr - that's your clutch......
-
beemerphile
I just changed out both brake hoses without bleeding from the junction valve even though I already had the tank off. My favorite method is to push fluid up from the bottom. That forces the air to the top where it wants to go anyway because of bouyancy. I never could see trying to suck air out of the bottom of the system. It fact, you can tap the hoses with a wrench or depress the lever about a half inch or so and release it instantly causing it to tap against the lever stop when it is fully extended and you will see air bubbles coming out of the fluid. Wait a while and come back and do the lever trick again for some more air. I have a MityVac and use it sometimes, but the pressure method with a 60cc syringe and a hose seems the most effective. For pesky systems, I leave the lowest bango fitting loose and inject fluid until it leaks out pretty good (into a rag), then tighten that banjo and repeat with the next higher one. I have also installed a banjo bolt at the top that has a bleed fitting in it. That way you can direct the leak into a jar instead of trying to catch it in a rag. There is lots of room for innovation in brake bleeding. - Lee

