Im having trouble with my twin spark r1150. At first I thought I had poor fuel as it went from running very well to sluggish and very poor just off idle. I changed the fuel etc, changed all four plugs and still it has a lumpy tick over and hesitates at 2000 when setting off. I have a pinging noise from the left hand cyclinder at tick over, once above 3500 its ok .
The coil/cap is £60.00 so before I spend dose anybody know if this is the likley cause of the problem.
The coils look OK, with no damagr to the external shell.
I checked the battery and this is showing 13,5 volts unloaded. The
Suggestions please.
PS The local shop has regular deliveries of the coils and they are snaped up within days. Of a dozen to be delivered tomorrow only two are spare. Dose this say something about the reliability?
Soory if this is an old subject but Im new to the forum.
Plug cap/coils
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DJ Downunder
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I had a coil go bad on my twin spark last year. Having the extra plugs helped in diagnosing the problem and getting me home (not in that order). I'll try to dig up my post about my troubleshooting. Only one of my local dealers had the coil in stock. The other two don't normally stock them.
John
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'17 Triumph Tiger 1200 XRX
Member 293 (I think)
'17 Triumph Tiger 1200 XRX
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CycleRob
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That's most often a symptom of an on-throttle TB synch error. It will be noticeable by listening to the sound change when you slowly feed a little throttle from idle speed. You'll hear it go from an idling twin to a single cylinder. It can also be a fouled plug or weak/dead coil.it went from running very well to sluggish and very poor just off idle.
It's unusual, and unacceptable, that a new bike would have a high percentage of component failures. The Yamaha R-6 SportBikes have a similar high failure rate for their plug cap computer coils. Maybe some customers are getting their engines much hotter than the factory Beta tests thought were typical. That, plus some factory component suppliers are unknowingly using substandard parts. It's funny how many newer cars have the same plug cap computer coils and there's never any failures. I'd bet the automotive versions are cheaper too.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Wow thats my prob. I'm leaning towards the coil. I have a 2004 dual spark with 23K. I plan on changing the fuel filter, but what I really suspect may be problem is coils.
I've been riding for a year now with no protection over the lower plugs. I broke one of my valve cover protectors and they have a plactic cover integrated that protects the lower spark plug cable. I wonder if one of those spark plug caps/cables has become damaged.
Are the coils the long units that plug directly into the spark plugs and onto the cable on the other end?
I can't seem to get a consistent idle, and when warm I get a loud ticking sound that bothers me to the point that I sometimes turn the bike off.
I asked that the dealer 'pull the codes' for me a few weeks ago when I had the bike in for a splines input shaft replacement and they told me that they didn't find any fault codes, but I'm dubious if they ever pulled the codes. They definately didn't hand me any type of print out. And I would think that a bad coil, spark plug cable wire would have turned up a fault code
I've been riding for a year now with no protection over the lower plugs. I broke one of my valve cover protectors and they have a plactic cover integrated that protects the lower spark plug cable. I wonder if one of those spark plug caps/cables has become damaged.
Are the coils the long units that plug directly into the spark plugs and onto the cable on the other end?
I can't seem to get a consistent idle, and when warm I get a loud ticking sound that bothers me to the point that I sometimes turn the bike off.
I asked that the dealer 'pull the codes' for me a few weeks ago when I had the bike in for a splines input shaft replacement and they told me that they didn't find any fault codes, but I'm dubious if they ever pulled the codes. They definately didn't hand me any type of print out. And I would think that a bad coil, spark plug cable wire would have turned up a fault code
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ProductUser
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You should be able to check the coils with the use of a multi-meter. However, I've read posts in which a coil Ohm'd out good, yet it was bad. I assumed this particular coil failed once it heated up.
As mentioned before, swapping out coil packs with the other side would give you the answer. I would check the plugs and air filter before I start swapping out coil packs.
PU
As mentioned before, swapping out coil packs with the other side would give you the answer. I would check the plugs and air filter before I start swapping out coil packs.
PU
Sunbeemer, your reply was so sensible I am ashamed not to have tried first. I did the following substitution tests
1) Start bike and warm up (Difficult to start)
2) Disconnect lead to l/h coil cap- No change to tickover. Reconnect
3) Stop bike, Renmove lower l/h plug cap and restart,- bike lunges to one side as only one pot fires. Reconnect,
4) Swap plug coils left to right, Restart. bike ticks over lumpily.
5)Remove r/h coil lead- No change to lumpy tickover. Reconnect
6) Remove lower r/h plug cap and restart.- Bike fires up on l/h pot.
My conclusion is a faulty coil. £55.00 + vat, not too good on an 11000 mile BMW. However two plugs and independant sparking allowed me to continue riding. Its so nearly right on one plug it could be easy to ignore the symptoms.
Thanks for all the advice and I hope others with similar problems will take Sunbeemers approach to fault finding, I must admit to a fear and lack of understanding with all thing electronic.
1) Start bike and warm up (Difficult to start)
2) Disconnect lead to l/h coil cap- No change to tickover. Reconnect
3) Stop bike, Renmove lower l/h plug cap and restart,- bike lunges to one side as only one pot fires. Reconnect,
4) Swap plug coils left to right, Restart. bike ticks over lumpily.
5)Remove r/h coil lead- No change to lumpy tickover. Reconnect
6) Remove lower r/h plug cap and restart.- Bike fires up on l/h pot.
My conclusion is a faulty coil. £55.00 + vat, not too good on an 11000 mile BMW. However two plugs and independant sparking allowed me to continue riding. Its so nearly right on one plug it could be easy to ignore the symptoms.
Thanks for all the advice and I hope others with similar problems will take Sunbeemers approach to fault finding, I must admit to a fear and lack of understanding with all thing electronic.
I would guess that motorcycle coils/plug caps are subject to more harsh environments. For a car, the engine compartment temperature is probably more consistant/not as high as an air cooled bike, and not as exposed to the elements (mostly rain).CycleRob wrote:It's funny how many newer cars have the same plug cap computer coils and there's never any failures. I'd bet the automotive versions are cheaper too.
My symptons were rough idle and less power throughout the band. It was hard pass other vehicles and the bike required much more throttle to maintain highway speeds. Also, I have a satellite radio on my bike and using the headphones, I was picking up a little ignition noise which was normally not there.
John
Member 293 (I think)
'17 Triumph Tiger 1200 XRX
Member 293 (I think)
'17 Triumph Tiger 1200 XRX
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riceburner
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riceburner
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yep, 3 pins and a red rubber band gasket type thing. I pulled mine the other night just to see how it worked and I was thinking 'hope I don't break this..' but it just pulls out. There's a small retainer which is so small it doesn't do anything. If I had my camera with me I could show you!
Just borrowed a camera, here you go.
Plug
Coil cap
Just borrowed a camera, here you go.
Plug
Coil cap
Disconnecting coil
The coil is a tight fit in the cylinder head and you are best using the special puller in the tool kit to extract it, 2 very wide bladed screwdrivers can also be used to lever the cap out. Once it is loose a bit the leads into the coil just pull out. The connector into the coil is also a bit tight as a rubber gasket is fitted round the 3 pin plug.
I have seen pictures of failed coils which arked onto the magnesium rocker cover causing quite a mess nad making removal very difficult.
I have seen pictures of failed coils which arked onto the magnesium rocker cover causing quite a mess nad making removal very difficult.
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riceburner
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chris wrote:yep, 3 pins and a red rubber band gasket type thing. I pulled mine the other night just to see how it worked and I was thinking 'hope I don't break this..' but it just pulls out. There's a small retainer which is so small it doesn't do anything. If I had my camera with me I could show you!
Just borrowed a camera, here you go.
Plug
Coil cap
Cheers for the photos - I just discovered the RHS connector on my bike is broken.
There's a weak point in the plastic "chassis" of the connector just "inboard" of the red weather seal - it must have cracked when I pulled it out whilst doing the service and I think it's affecting the circuit to the coil.