oil and tire specs
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oil and tire specs
Hello everyone,
I can not locate my manuals. I have no idea where the heck they are.
What are the recommended specs for the transmission oil and the rear end oil and the tire pressures.
ken k
where can I get copies of them other than at the dealer. Someone mentioned a PDF version and someone even emilaed me it but did not attach the file.
BTW 2003 R1150R
I can not locate my manuals. I have no idea where the heck they are.
What are the recommended specs for the transmission oil and the rear end oil and the tire pressures.
ken k
where can I get copies of them other than at the dealer. Someone mentioned a PDF version and someone even emilaed me it but did not attach the file.
BTW 2003 R1150R
Red 2003 R1150R
- Mr Episkopos
- Basic User
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:56 am
- Location: Athens Greece Bike: R1150R '05
- Mr Episkopos
- Basic User
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:56 am
- Location: Athens Greece Bike: R1150R '05
For the crankcase, I use full synthetic 5W40 from late fall through early spring; 15W50 for the warm months. I wouldn't bother switching but the manual specifies 50W for ambients above 88F or so and I can't find a 5W50 oil.
For the trans, I used synthetic 75/140 and 75/90 in the FD. I was at a tech seminar last summer where Paul Glaves, a tech writer for the BMW MOA magazine, recommended conventional gear lube for the FD because he felt that synth was too slippery and allowed the top bearings to become dry, causing added wear. YMMV. If you change the fluids, you will also need these parts:
Transmission crush washer:
07 11 9 963 300
Final drive crush washers:
07 11 9 963 200
For the trans, I used synthetic 75/140 and 75/90 in the FD. I was at a tech seminar last summer where Paul Glaves, a tech writer for the BMW MOA magazine, recommended conventional gear lube for the FD because he felt that synth was too slippery and allowed the top bearings to become dry, causing added wear. YMMV. If you change the fluids, you will also need these parts:
Transmission crush washer:
07 11 9 963 300
Final drive crush washers:
07 11 9 963 200
'03 R1150R
Life member 365
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
Life member 365
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
Re: oil and tire specs
I use 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil (this is the premium oil BMW sells for use in gearboxes and FDs). However, I purchase mine from the local autoparts store....much cheaper than the BMW stuff. All respects to others who recommend otherwise, synthetic gear oil does not shear down like dino oils do, thereby retaining viscosity for longer periods. Also, synthetics tolerate heat much better than dino oils.ken k wrote:Hello everyone,
I can not locate my manuals. I have no idea where the heck they are.
What are the recommended specs for the transmission oil and the rear end oil and the tire pressures.
ken k
where can I get copies of them other than at the dealer. Someone mentioned a PDF version and someone even emilaed me it but did not attach the file.
BTW 2003 R1150R
I add 10% moly to both my FD and transmission to increase seal life as well as reduce friction, improve shifting and reduce gearbox noise.
If we're talking engine oil, Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic auto oil (not the motorcycle stuff) year 'round.
Dennis....quit worrying about your oil..go ride
Re: oil and tire specs
def38 wrote:thanks def, pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by moly?ken k wrote:Hello everyone,
I can not locate my manuals. I have no idea where the heck they are.
What are the recommended specs for the transmission oil and the rear end oil and the tire pressures.
ken k
where can I get copies of them other than at the dealer. Someone mentioned a PDF version and someone even emilaed me it but did not attach the file.
BTW 2003 R1150R
k
I use 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil (this is the premium oil BMW sells for use in gearboxes and FDs). However, I purchase mine from the local autoparts store....much cheaper than the BMW stuff. All respects to others who recommend otherwise, synthetic gear oil does not shear down like dino oils do, thereby retaining viscosity for longer periods. Also, synthetics tolerate heat much better than dino oils.
I add 10% moly to both my FD and transmission to increase seal life as well as reduce friction, improve shifting and reduce gearbox noise.
If we're talking engine oil, Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic auto oil (not the motorcycle stuff) year 'round.
Red 2003 R1150R
Re: oil and tire specs
Moly, short for molybdenum disulfide is an extreme pressure dry lubricant added to oils and greases for various applications.ken k wrote:def38 wrote:thanks def, pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by moly?ken k wrote:Hello everyone,
I can not locate my manuals. I have no idea where the heck they are.
What are the recommended specs for the transmission oil and the rear end oil and the tire pressures.
ken k
where can I get copies of them other than at the dealer. Someone mentioned a PDF version and someone even emilaed me it but did not attach the file.
BTW 2003 R1150R
k
I use 75W-140 GL-5 synthetic gear oil (this is the premium oil BMW sells for use in gearboxes and FDs). However, I purchase mine from the local autoparts store....much cheaper than the BMW stuff. All respects to others who recommend otherwise, synthetic gear oil does not shear down like dino oils do, thereby retaining viscosity for longer periods. Also, synthetics tolerate heat much better than dino oils.
I add 10% moly to both my FD and transmission to increase seal life as well as reduce friction, improve shifting and reduce gearbox noise.
If we're talking engine oil, Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic auto oil (not the motorcycle stuff) year 'round.
It is found in many motor oil formulations as well as in the greases used by BMW riders and BMW techs for spline lube. It is a very affective additive in the transmission and final drive. Benefits are improved shifting, reduced friction, less gear noise, and extended seal life.
Go here for more information; http://www.guarddogmoly.com/
Dennis....quit worrying about your oil..go ride
- CycleRob
- Honorary Lifer
- Posts: 2857
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
- Location: Enjoying retirement in Gainesville GA. USA
- Contact:
Tire Pressures: 38F, 40R psi
2-up 42R
Engine - Castrol Syntec 5W-50 year round (full synthetic) $5.68/qt (at their worst $$) in Wal*Mart when you can find it. Ask for them to stock it -or- sell you a case on special order, if it's not on the shelf.
Trans - any 75W-140 GL-5 full synthetic
FD - Mobil-1 GL-5
2-up 42R
Engine - Castrol Syntec 5W-50 year round (full synthetic) $5.68/qt (at their worst $$) in Wal*Mart when you can find it. Ask for them to stock it -or- sell you a case on special order, if it's not on the shelf.
Trans - any 75W-140 GL-5 full synthetic
FD - Mobil-1 GL-5
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
- Mr Episkopos
- Basic User
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:56 am
- Location: Athens Greece Bike: R1150R '05
-
boxermania
- Quadruple Lifer
- Posts: 3644
- Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 6:37 pm
- Location: Baton Rouge, LA.....aproaching retirement
All those that are marketing size 200 pounds and over, like me, will benefit from having 38 psi front and 42 psi in the rear. It makes be bike a little crisper in it's handling.
Being that I'm a bit overweight I tried Helium in the tires, unfortunately it didn't work well. The bike tried to float when I got off of it......go figure.
Being that I'm a bit overweight I tried Helium in the tires, unfortunately it didn't work well. The bike tried to float when I got off of it......go figure.
Member #312
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
- Max Continuous
- Basic User
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Ontario, Canada