loud metal to metal cracking noise

tbologne · Post by **tbologne** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:23 am

Anybody with a Rock have this problem?

When stopped at a light I'll 'blip' the trottle real quick and more often that not, I'll here a loud cracking sound (like metal to metal) coming from the cylinder. Sounds like it's coming from the right cylinder. I noticed if I open up the throttle smoothly and slowly, it won't crack.

This will also occur, sometimes, when I'm gearing down and decelerating and 'blipping' in between gears.

I went to the stealer (dealer) and they gave me long-winded story. At the end of it, they basically said it's normal. I don't think it's normal because none of my other bikes do it. But then again, none of my other bikes are like the ROCK!!

Thanks, appreciated.

T

Post by **MikeCam** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 3:09 am

Cam Chain Tensioner.

If that's the basis of the dealer's long winded discussion then they were telling a truth.

Keep in mind, none of your other bikes was a boxer twin.

Check MIXR's thread... http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=7891

tbologne · Post by **tbologne** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:19 pm

thanks for the info Mike.

great thread and informative.

T

Lion_Lady · Post by **Lion_Lady** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 4:24 pm

Okay. Total mechanical neophyte here. How do I know if my Rockster 80 has the no-spring tensioner or not?

To me, anything that 'slaps around' metal to metal is going to wear stuff out. So, on one hand, I'm inclined to do the fix. On the other hand, I FIRST need to determine if I NEED the fix.

Help?

P

RBrider · Post by **RBrider** » Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:47 am

L/Lady

I've not done the conversion, but those who have say to check the head of the bolt on the tensioner. If it's a 15mm, you have the upgrade, if it's 17mm you have the old one.

It's located just inboard of the left T/B. Just try to fit a socket to yours to determine the size.

RB

MIXR · Post by **MIXR** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:53 pm

Correct about the head sizes - But also remember that the fix is for the left side only. However, there have been cases where the 'noise' from the left is transmitted through the block so it can sound like the right side. Personally, I'm sceptical about that.

It's also NOT a 'no spring' upgrade. The spring is housed (fixed) within the cylinder, so it's not an extra part like the older one. Just a cylinder (with internal spring) plus a piston (and a crush washer).

I'm not sure it's the same thing as the noise beiong described. Almost sounds like it could be 'pinging' ('pinking') from low octane fuel. Consider that.

I'm still really happy about my tensioner (anti-slap) upgrade. Much quieter engine at idle and at the 3-4000 rpm range, and especially under decelleration. Well over 90,000 kms now, and the upgrade has been in place for quite a while (20,000 kms).

Lion_Lady · Post by **Lion_Lady** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 9:27 am

RBrider wrote:L/Lady

I've not done the conversion, but those who have say to check the head of the bolt on the tensioner. If it's a 15mm, you have the upgrade, if it's 17mm you have the old one.

It's located just inboard of the left T/B. Just try to fit a socket to yours to determine the size.

RB

Thanks! Now I know what to look for.

P