To Grease or Not To Grease, That Is The Question

marecycling · Post by **marecycling** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:26 pm

Removed the rear wheel from my 2002 R1150R for the first time since it was new. Large amount of corrosion present in hub. Cleaned it up, and planned to coat mating sufaces with a light coat of grease to slow corrosion, and aid in the next wheel removal. Owners manual clearly states to make sure mating surfaces are free of any grease. Any suggestions on how to prevent the rust buildup in hub. I already have a plug in the center hole. Any info is appreciated.

Post by **awagnon** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:43 pm

Maybe the plug is keeping the water from draining out ( it's going to get in anyway ) and leading to the corrosion. How about a thin coat of wax? Rub it off really well and I'd bet it would be fine. I wouldn't use WD40 unless you want it greasy.

Post by **CycleRob** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:02 pm

They do not want grease on the mating surfaces because they might slip on the grease, even though the bolts are holding the two surfaces together very tightly. That can put a dangerous shearing load on the lug bolts - - - and off comes the wheel at the beginning of your wheelie. The rust is usually uniform on the entire area of the mating surfaces and only superficially deep so it's more a cosmetic annoyance than worrysome damage.

You must also NEVER oil the threads on the lug bolts as the lowered friction will dramatically raise the bolts tensile load to near failure. Someone has a picture of 2 BMW lug bolts - - - one not oiled and one that was oiled and is visibly stretched out by the necked down thread area with it's wider thread pitch.

Lightly sand off the mating surface rust (or not) and put the wheel back on with no oil anywhere.

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:48 pm

You need one of these... http://www.users.bigpond.com/hayneskld/ ...Give Keith an email and you'll have it in no time.

DJ

Arbee · Post by **Arbee** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:15 am

"Zinc Chromate" which is light green coloured water consistency
is self etching & corrosive prevention used on all aircraft surfaces
to prevent oxidation & corrosion

"Alodine" is the other compound recommended for aluminium corrosion
prevention.

riceburner · Post by **riceburner** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:27 am

DJ Downunder wrote:You need one of these... http://www.users.bigpond.com/hayneskld/ ...Give Keith an email and you'll have it in no time.

DJ

Is Keith still supplying them??? I thought he'd stopped.

I've had a LOT of success with using ACF-50 and a KHaynes plug (as above).

with the wheel in place, squirt a reasonable amount of ACF-50 into the hub and put the plug in. Leave for months.

at next tyre change marvel in wonder at the total absence of rust.

(obviously the surface will still be pitted, ACF-50 won't replace the oxidised material).

Post by **boxermania** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 1:20 pm

Most of the corrosion will be at the hub end, since it is made out of steel and is exposed to the elements. Also be aware that the hub and the wheel are a boss fit, created specifically to insure that the wheel is centered on the hub.

I would advise against sanding either one of the surfaces for fear that the clearance between the two would be compromised (increased) and potentially have the wheel not running true with the hub centerline.

Yes, some will argue that the wheel bolts are conical under the head to assist with the centering of the wheel, however there is also clearance between the bolts and the holes they fit in. In real life the holes are not perfect and there is a slight pulling on the wheel metal as the bolts are tightened. Everything is kept in check by the boss between the hub and the wheel.