Oil level window

[Beemer1150]

My oil level window is so cloudy that I can no longer see the level - definately not condensation, just emptied and changed oil!

Is it a difficult/expensive job to change the window?

Also I have that oil weep from the filler cap which was cured during a service by the dealer once but has now reurred. Again, a simple job or not?

Would very much like to tackle these jobs myself for cost reasons and also that I'm now living in France - and not only is the local dealer a way away but my French would not be up to describing an oil level window!

Apologies if this topic has been covered before.

Any advice appreciated

[DJ Downunder]

I'm no expert..But here's what I know.

They are plastic..not glass.

They are cheap to buy.

They are easy to change and can even be done on the side of the road.

I think you can drill a hole on the center..screw in a screw leaving a little bit out.

Grab it with pliers and pull it out.

Use something like a large socket to rest against the new one and hammer the new one in.

Something like that from what I remember.

I'm sure others here will have done it and know more than me.

I think overheating causes it to go cloudy.

DJ

[awagnon]

You don't say what bike you have. Assuming it's an 1150R or boxer, it's easy to do both repairs. The oil level window pops out. Drain the oil first, or at least get the level below the window. Screw a sheet metal or similar screw into the window and pull it out. The new window can be pressed back in with a similar sized socket or dowel. It costs about $26 for the lil plastic window.

I found it easier to replace the filler cap o-ring by removing the valve cover and pushing the assembly off from the inside. I would bet a new o-ring on either the plug or seat would fix the problem. It's hard to press the seat back into the valve cover with the new o-ring. I found putting some soap or lubricant that won't hurt the o-ring helps. Both o-rings are inexpensive and I'd replace both. Even a new seat is fairly cheap if you want to go the full replacement.

[taosports]

Is it a difficult/expensive job to change the window?

Nope, quite easy in fact. Here's what you need to do :

Drain some oil or lean bike to the right to lower the oil level below the window. Use a red hot nail to poke a hole through the plastic window. Turn a screw into the hole enough so that it grips, then just pull on the screw head to remove the window. New sight glass should just press in after cleaning the window hole.

Also I have that oil weep from the filler cap which was cured during a service by the dealer once but has now reurred. Again, a simple job or not?

Another easy one. Start by replacing the o-ring in the cap. Hopefully, that does the trick. If not, you'll need to replace the plastic assembly in the oil filler hole. It just pops up and out.

EDIT : Al & DJ beat me to it!

[Beemer1150]

Thank you everybody for your help... will order parts and set to work soon.

DJ Downunder you are so right:
I think overheating causes it to go cloudy
I was extremely stupid - now that I don't commute daily and live down here where there are cold winters but lovelysummers I started the bike up after a month's lay-over to 'warm it through'. Left it on fast tick-over and the phone rang... got back to the bike to find everything VERY hot, oil light flickering, the works!
Left it to cool, changed the oil (assuming it to be completely *b*******d) and put in the recommended 3.5 litres (can't see any level!) and restarted - everything seems OK (apart from the window) and if anything the engine sounds smoother!
Lesson learned!

[awagnon]

got back to the bike to find everything VERY hot, oil light flickering, the works! Left it to cool, changed the oil (assuming it to be completely *b*******d) and put in the recommended 3.5 litres (can't see any level!) and restarted - everything seems OK (apart from the window) and if anything the engine sounds smoother! Lesson learned!

You were lucky. Also, if it had been an RT, there is a good chance some tupperware would have been toast, so to speak.

[CycleRob]

On removing the old window, taosports red hot nail poke is the better way for 2 reasons:
1--No drilling chips get in the motor.
2--The melting process creates a swelled "boss" of displaced material that gives the sheet metal screw a larger grip area.

You can prolly put a piece of 3/4" plywood or a 1" board under the left centerstand foot and make the oil drop low enough to change the window at any time.

.

[Beemer1150]

Thanks again everyone - will try the red-hot nail as soon as I can source a new window.

Has anyone else had a similiar overheat experience? If so could they either re-assure me or advise on any problems to look out for in the future?

Everything felt fine on the 10-mile test run, no extra or different engine noises, performance seemed right and the oil light was out at tickover with the engine up to temp.

I'm not planning to use the bike again until I can be certain of the oil level!

[boxermania]

Beemer1150

Regarding your hot experience let us just say that it happened, apparently nothing was harmed and it would be in your best interest not to allow it t happen again.

I would highly recomend any hot engine (the air cooled variety) not to be run with the bike standing still for more than 5 minutes.....on the stand or stopped in traffic.

Some additional thoughts to the already excellent posted advice:

The filter cap base has been known to move (upwards) and release presure on the seat O-ring, this could allow some oil seepage.

Likewise, dirt, can find it's way into the cap O-ring and affect the sealing as well. I always cleaned the cap O-ring and the seat when adding oil and never had a problem.

Good luck.....

[awagnon]

Thanks again everyone - will try the red-hot nail as soon as I can source a new window.

Warning..!! Be sure you use a BMW hot nail which you can get at any BMW parts department. I don't know the part number, but be careful as they will try to sell you the newer CANBUS hot nail which costs about fifty dollars more and turns itself off after 45 seconds. However, I've heard you can wire it directly to the battery unless you use synthetic oil in the headlight modulator, in which case it can cause a final drive failure. I have a cold Home Depot nail in my rear tire I can loan you, but I'll need it back since it holds the air in.

[Beemer1150]

Thanks Boxermania - it certainly isn't an 'experiment' I aim to repeat! If I have got away with it this time I'll be very grateful to the BMW guardian fairy!

Awagnon - thanks for the tips. I'd thought about using a Honda version of the Hotnail, but my Bank said I didn't qualify for a loan that big. I found a digital version on the web, but my anti-virus advised against visiting that particular site... BMW's website confused me so much that eventually I decided to visit the nearest place with a really big stock of weird bits and pieces... when I got to my shed I found just the right item and a blowlamp available at a reasonable rate (lunch for the other half at a creperie in nearby Saintes).

Actually, my best mate and long-term riding partner back in the UK took pity on me, visited our local BMW dealer there (and the best one anywhere in the world if you want an arguement!) and bought all the bits for under 25 quid. The nail I have to find myself...

Thank you everybody - what a brilliant resource this forum is!

[ErikU]

Good tip about the BMW nail...

also, since you overheated, you should flush your radiator.

[Beemer1150]

Flushed my radiator through as soon as there were no rattles on restart - there's good wine down here...