A Warning Missing In Valve Adj Instructions

[Dr. Strangelove]

Just did my 24k valve adjustment and only the R .15's were off a little, but getting them just right makes a sweet ride.

However, I will never ever adjust the valves without an extra 2 internal spark plug gaskets.

The one on the L side failed after reinstall. I noticed it because it was leaking oil from the spark plug hole when on the side stand.

Repositioned and put on center stand overnight. All is dry in the morning so off to work I go. When I arrived my L lower leg was covered/soaked with oil and the side of the bike was a mess. Managed to get back home without the oil light going on and later did the extensive bike cleanup. There was so much oil on the pants leg that they dripped oil

Searching for failure of these gaskets reveals they fail often enough that many dealers just replace them with every adj.

I will always have a couple on hand from now one.

Hope this helps someone

John

[granbo]

Good point...the same thing happened to me and delayed a much needed trip. Ruined a pair of boots and pants. I know it's extreme but now I carry a spare on board. BMW sells the gasket for $7.45 each. Part number 1147668216.

[Sunbeemer]

Hi Doc, a year or so ago I asked who rotated them and who put them back on the way they came off. The Clymers says to rotate them 90 deg each time and they can be used 4 times before replacing, while the valve adjust video that has been recently recirculated here says to reinstall them so that the dimpled area always go back the same way. I've done it both ways and found that reinstalling them the same way resulted in some leakage. Anyway, I got three uses from them before I changed all the gaskets at 18000 miles.

YRMV

[taosports]

Good idea to change them every valve check (6,000 miles) but they can last longer if you're willing to risk a wet, oily leg. I just rotated the donut a bit each time and that worked for me for 48,000 miles. I did replace them however with my 48,000 mile service.

[boxermania]

The plug gaskets should come out attached to the valve cover.....if this is the case you will notice there is a bit of an indent on the gasket (I'll call it a plug). Sometimes it refuses to come out with the valve cover and stays stuck to the head, in this instance one could possibly pinch or deform it upon the valve cover install, hence the oil leak.

I always pull them out, clean, rub some silicon on and put them back in the valve cover, insuring they are properly seated and in the same position they were when removed. I sold my bike with 17K miles on, but trust me in saying that I had those valve covers off at least 5 or 6 times as I was "experimenting" and never had a problem with leaks.

Also be carefull of the valve cover gasket, specially at the bottom as sometimes, between the gasket and gravity could result in a marginal seal which will turn into a minor oil weep............

[Dr. Strangelove]

Well, Michael got 48 k out of his; I got 24 and an oily leg and boot.

I tried it both ways also, rotating 180 degrees and fitting them back. I think you might try to get some mileage out of them, but for the cost vs hassle ratio, I could argue to change them every time. At least have some around in case you need them.

I was glad that I had synthetic oil in the bike, though. My sight glass was totally clear when I got home, ~~75 mile commute.

John

[CycleRob]

At almost 7 years with over 59,000 miles (94,951km) I'm still on my 2nd set of center rubber gaskets and still the original outer perimeter cover gaskets. I turn my center rubber gaskets a half turn each valve adjustment and they never weep or leak.

To clarify, we are talking about the circular rubber gasket in the middle of the valve cover for the sparkplug hole. The (Big) leak happens when you are inserting the valve cover into place. It hangs up on something so you pull it a little back off, the put it on all the way or- while you are trying to start the bolts the cover moves away from the head a finger's width. That's when the center rubber gasket gets tilted out of place, crushed crooked, then the leak happens. I did the same thing - - - ONCE, years ago! Then I studied why it happened. It's caused by the D shaped pocket in the head where the rubber gasket fits snuggly into. As long as the cover moves in only one direction, that is, parallel to to each other in the "ON" direction, you're OK. ANY movement in the "remove" direction will grab one side of the gasket and tilt it out of position. It almost never goes back into place when you put it back on.

Need a sure fire way to do it right every time? Here's how. Look downward on the cylinder parallel and in line of sight with the gasket surface. With the valvecover in both hands, SLOWLY install it while maintaining an EVEN and slowly decreasing gap all the way around. That is, BE SURE the 2 Aluminum gasket surfaces are always parallel. When the gap goes to zero, use heavy force to ensure it does not separate while you are starting the cover bolt threads!! If the cover either hangs up or moves away from the head, take it off completely to reinstall the center rubber gasket and start over.

After diagonally hand tightening the cover bolts, use a bright light or mirrored sunlight into the sparkplug hole to confirm the rubber gasket is in place, or at least invisible. THEN wrench tighten the bolts.

Works every time.

One real important thing missing concerns the sparkplugs. I say DO NOT remove them until AFTER the valves are adjusted. Removing them beforehand will carbon dust one, possibly both lower valve seats when the plug is turned out. When the valve closes on that dust it won't close completely and you'll set the wrong clearance!! BTDT long time ago on a Honda XR-80. It's even more likely to happen on a twin cylinder Boxer. http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/9579219_SQNhJ-L.jpg
Trust me on this.

.

[Dr. Strangelove]

To clarify, we are talking about the circular rubber gasket in the middle of the valve cover for the sparkplug hole. The (Big) leak happens when you are inserting the valve cover into place. It hangs up on something so you pull it a little back off, the put it on all the way or- while you are trying to start the bolts the cover moves away from the head a finger's width. That's when the center rubber gasket gets tilted out of place, crushed crooked, then the leak happens. I did the same thing - - - ONCE, years ago!... It's caused by the D shaped pocket in the head where the rubber gasket fits snuggly into. As long as the cover moves in only one direction, that is, parallel to to each other in the "ON" direction, you're OK. ANY movement in the "remove" direction will grab one side of the gasket and tilt it out of position. It almost never goes back into place when you put it back on.

I thought I did this, but apparently not

Need a sure fire way to do it right every time? Here's how. Look downward on the cylinder parallel and in line of sight with the gasket surface. With the valvecover in both hands, SLOWLY install it while maintaining an EVEN and slowly decreasing gap all the way around. That is, BE SURE the 2 Aluminum gasket surfaces are always parallel. When the gap goes to zero, use heavy force to ensure it does not separate while you are starting the cover bolt threads!! If the cover either hangs up or moves away from the head, take it off completely to reinstall the center rubber gasket and start over.

I did that also, but now, armed with this caveat will definitely be more careful

And you are a proponent of rotating the gasket rather than refitting it the same way...

After diagonally hand tightening the cover bolts, use a bright light or mirrored sunlight into the sparkplug hole to confirm the rubber gasket is in place, or at least invisible. THEN wrench tighten the bolts.

Did that, too, and they looked evenly seated, but maybe by then the damage to the integrity of the gasket was done. It is still worthwhile, especially if you live far from a dealer, to have a couple of extra gaskets on hand.

Is there a way to rejuvenate the gaskets? soak in Armor All?


Did you see my post about the 4164 autolite plugs not fitting in the BMW spark plug wrench?

And thanks for the explanation and advice, CR--It should DEFINITELY be added to the instructions out there.

John