front shock install question

[michael Tobias]

Hi, I got a set of Wilbers for the R and got the rear installed easily enough but I cannot seem to break the top nut on the front loose. the entire shaft turns....I chickend out after a few tries because I was not sure if I would ruin the stock shock. I looked thru the old posts and saw that some of you had managed this but I did not see anything about the front top nut spinning the shaft....or at this point I don't remember it if I did.

Any hints will be greatly appreciated

[dbrick]

I haven't taken the front shock off my R12R, but I did on its predecessor R11RSL. I had its shocks off several times, and installed Ohlins as replacement, then R&R'd the Ohlins for rebuild a couple of times. I can't remember which system appeared on which shock, but there were two systems to allow holding the shaft.

One was a machined recess in the top of the shaft which will take a hex key. Find a hexkey that'd fit, and put it in to immobilize the shaft. Then you can unscrew the mounting nut.

The other was flats at the top of the shaft. The flats will take a 5mm open-end wrench, or something small like that. Hold a wrench on the flats, which will immobilize the shaft. Then you can unscrew the mounting nut.

[deilenberger]

Mike,

As David suggested, there is an allen-key recess in the top of the shock shaft.. you need to use an allen wrench in it while turning the nut with a box or open-end wrench. BTDT a few weeks ago with John M's bike when we installed Ohlins on it.

I'm sure BMW has a special tool to use when torquing the top nut - but luckily you don't need it for installing the Wilbers since the body is now UP - and you can keep it from turning while tightening the nut using the spring adjustment spanner that comes with the shock. A dab of blue Loctite (medium strength) wouldn't be a bad idea if you're reusing the nut on assembly.

EDIT: Also - a bit of heat on the bottom bolt on disassembly will make it much easier to remove. I use a high power heat gun - just be careful not to bubble the paint on the telelever arm. And that bolt also gets a dab of blue Loctite on reassembly. It's not something you want coming out whilst riding.

Good luck!

[gibbo111]

+1 on what Don has said Michael, have just fitted Hyperpros on mine and have just replaced my front tyre-a pirelli diabalo with 17000km, it was shaped like a wedge!. Now have a road attack2 on and itis a different bike -like its glued to the road ! Would be interested to hear what you think of the Wilbers

[celticus]

Once you get the fasteners loose then the fun begins!
If someone knows how to remove the front shock quickly and easily please tell me how it is done. Some pictures would be better.
I just installed Ohlins on mine this weekend and I ended up removing the alternator cover to get sufficient room to drop the shock down so the top would clear the hole in the frame so it would come out. What a pain in the neck.
I know there must be a quicker way but I couldn't figure it out.

Mark

[mogu83]

Mark-
You just have to sit and look at it for a while (maybe a beer - but not more than two). I got mine off with a Stebel Nautilus Horn bolted in where the canister usually is (just loosened the bolts on the horn mount). After reading all the info on changing shocks I expected all kinds of drama but with a little patience every thing went smoothly.

[michael Tobias]

many thanks. the allen did the trick. I will try to finish it up this evening if there is time after work.

one more dumb question though.... there was blue locktite on the bottom bolt of the rear shock. when I finally got it out (without heating) there was still plenty of residue on the bolt so I just put it back in. should I pull it out and reapply new locktite?

[mogu83]

I wouldn't worry about it. But - I've learned to put blue locktite on every thing unless something specifically says to assemble dry. I taught my boys to do the same on their bicycles and radio controlled stuff - with three sons I went through a LOT of blue locktite.

[deilenberger]

many thanks. the allen did the trick. I will try to finish it up this evening if there is time after work.

one more dumb question though.... there was blue locktite on the bottom bolt of the rear shock. when I finally got it out (without heating) there was still plenty of residue on the bolt so I just put it back in. should I pull it out and reapply new locktite?

Actually - I'd R&R it - clean the bolt with a wire brush and then a new dab of blue. The old stuff probably isn't doing a lot. And it also is a bolt you don't want to come out on it's own. If you don't want to bother - a mark with some old car touchup paint between the bolt head and the recess in the rear swingarm will allow you to see at a glance if it's working it's way out. I usually do both.

[michael Tobias]

thanks for the advice.....just to be safe I pulled the bolt out and cleaned it and added some new blue...loosing that bolt would be no fun.

I am looking forward to getting this bike back on the road.

[Bob Ain't Stoppin']

A quick note to assure that heat is not needed when removing the normal blue locktite #242. Adding fresh blue is a good plan when rebolting.

[celticus]

Mark-
You just have to sit and look at it for a while (maybe a beer - but not more than two). I got mine off with a Stebel Nautilus Horn bolted in where the canister usually is (just loosened the bolts on the horn mount). After reading all the info on changing shocks I expected all kinds of drama but with a little patience every thing went smoothly.

I have looked at mine untill I was blue in the face. I would still like some more succinct directions. The shock is in but it was a supreme pain in the neck.

Mark

[JohnM]

I have looked at mine untill I was blue in the face. I would still like some more succinct directions. The shock is in but it was a supreme pain in the neck.

Mark:

As I recall w/ mine (done recently), DonE & I had to ...

1. Remove scant Tupperware on both sides;
2. Remove seat;
3. Remove front plastic panels from tank;
3. Loosen & slide tank back;
4. Remove charcoal canister (remembering where each line went);
5. Lossen top & bottom shock mounts (heat gun used on bottom);
6. Lift front end w/ jack so shock was fully entended;
7. Remove top & bottom bolts.

Think that was basically it. Shock dropped straight down & out.

Admittedly, two pair of hands helped, especially w/ loosening & tightening top bolt, and sliding Ohlins into position.

[celticus]

Believe me I did all of those things. The shock would not drop straight down because of a knot of plastic on the alternator cover which holds the top of the oil cooler.
The front end was raised , front tire off of the ground. Mine is first year. Have they changed the alternator cover?

Mark

[Bob Ain't Stoppin']

Mark, I believe I had to pull the alternator cover to get my shock out. It takes about 5 minutes to get that cover off. Go for it

[deilenberger]

A quick note to assure that heat is not needed when removing the normal blue locktite #242. Adding fresh blue is a good plan when rebolting.

It's not "needed" - but it does make is softer and easier to unscrew the bolt. I believe the BMW TIS recommends the use of heat to remove those two bolts.

[deilenberger]

Believe me I did all of those things. The shock would not drop straight down because of a knot of plastic on the alternator cover which holds the top of the oil cooler.
The front end was raised , front tire off of the ground. Mine is first year. Have they changed the alternator cover?

Mark

Mine is also first year.. and I didn't have to remove the alternator cover. The trick is - get the telelever fork DOWN as far as you can... (make sure hoses aren't being stretched..)

This means you want to jack up the front of the bike (floor jack with a block of wood under the sump works great.) You may need to remove the rear wheel to get it up far enough (don't have to with mine with lowered suspension, or with stock suspension, had to with Johns with his Ohlins on the back..)

Then slide the lower part of the shock down into the hole in the telelever and angle the top out from under the steering head - it should come out quite easily this way. Assembly is the reverse..

[Jed]

Believe me I did all of those things. The shock would not drop straight down because of a knot of plastic on the alternator cover which holds the top of the oil cooler.
The front end was raised , front tire off of the ground. Mine is first year. Have they changed the alternator cover?

Mine's a 2010 - I did have to remove the oil cooler shroud but not the oil cooler itself nor the alternator cover. Once I pulled the oil cooler shroud, things went much as Don E described except I put a block of wood beneath the center stand so that I didn't have to remove the rear wheel - a scissor jack at the front of the engine case did the work of raising the front wheel enough to pull the shock out - bottom first I think.

[celticus]

I had wood under the jack, both wheels off of the ground and stood in the wheel via pitchfork handle to pull the front fork down as far as it would go but no luck. I don't doubt you guys and I don't think that mine is special but it seems to me that I tried every thing that has been suggested.

Mark

[deilenberger]

I had wood under the jack, both wheels off of the ground and stood in the wheel via pitchfork handle to pull the front fork down as far as it would go but no luck. I don't doubt you guys and I don't think that mine is special but it seems to me that I tried every thing that has been suggested.

Mark

Mark,

Are you sliding the bottom of the shock down through the mounting hole in the swingarm? Guess I should have taken photos when we did John M's (I think I did take them when I initially did mine, but dunno exactly where they are..) If you were near to NJ I'd invite you over and help out..