Original equipment QD removal

[Samiam]

I have done searches since 7:30 this morning trying to find a safe, easier way of removing the factory QDs. I cut the clamps off with nippers but the barbs on the fittings are simply too efficient and I cannot get the QDs off. I can now twist them, holding the hose with needle-nose pliers and twisting the fittings with channel-locks but I'm having no luck in getting them off.

I'm afraid I'll break the plastic fuel lines if I keep twisting and tugging. Is there a trick to this? I simply can't get a screwdriver blade between the fitting and hose. Thanks for any advice. I'd really hate to cave in now and wind up taking the bike to the dealer.

[Samiam]

OK, I finally got one of the quick disconnects off by twisting and pulling. I immediately noticed that the barbs were full of rubber shavings from the inside of the fuel line. I carefully (I sure hope!) made sure there are no shavings left inside the line.

Is it normal for the barbs to take some of the inner fuel line off? Did the rest of you go through this same process when you changed batteries and replaced the QDs? Am I missing out on an easier method of doing this?

[goomicoo]

Cut the hoses off carefully and replace them with new fuel injected rated hose. 5/16 inch size.
The barbed fittings are telling you that it's time for new hoses!
Enjoy

[BMWEW1]

got mine off without much problem by using small flat screw driver to gently pry/stretch the hose of the old OD, did not see any damage internally to hose

[CycleRob]

I had the same frustrating resistance trying to remove the 50R's old QD's and hoses from the rear pressure regulator's plastic fuel lines. That was really scary because the easily distorted plastic fuel lines seemed so fragile (and I knew they were expen$ive). Then I gave up on reusing the rubber fuel lines and cut them off. Using a new, single sided industrial razor blade, you slit the hose along it's length (longitudinally) just deep enough so you can tear it away -and- the razor's cutting edge NEVER touches the plastic hose!! You can even make several partial depth lengthwise cuts to weaken the hose's tight grip on the plastic pipe. When I still had the stock squeeze tight clamps they were all cut off with a Dremel cut-off disk, sparks flying!

The new size matched "high pressure fuel injection hose" at AutoZone came to just over $21 for 4 feet of it, and it was worth it. Nice, supple, new smelling rubber and it was easier to bend and install over the lightly greased barbs. Then there's the peace of mind that old, hard rubber pieces won't start weeping gasoline and go unnoticed while enjoying the ride.

[Samiam]

Cyclerob, it's so good to hear from you and thanks for the reply. I learned some things and I want to pass them on to others who find themselves in a quandry during battery and QD changes.

First, it is not really necessary to completely remove the tank for battery replacement. Once the oil cooler covers are off and the large Torx screw at the back of the tank is out, all that remains is for the QDs to be disconnected. It's easy to prop the tank up securely with a block and then change out the battery.

Regarding the original QDs, I discovered that if you hold the fuel line in front of the plastic lines and then completely rotate the QDs 360 degrees while pulling them with Channel-locks, they will come out after about three rotations without cutting shards of rubber from the inside of the line.

Having said that, I went ahead and replaced the rubber lines as you said just for insurance.

We have a store here called Battery Specialists who sold me a sealed, AGM battery for $57.17. It has a two year long warranty so I decided to take that route since I now know how to do the battery change. I hope my experience will benefit others.