Do I really need to remove the tank ?!

John I. Stephen · Post by **John I. Stephen** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:00 am

Thanks to the advice on this forum I have just bought and fitted a RAM mounting kit for my Garmin 2720 sat nav. It looks great. The power comes from the external 12v socket and I have the correct cable for this. However, I was trying to see how best I could route the cable without, that is, removing the tank.

Boris Badenov from your photos of the same setup can you advise please?

Thanks guys

R4R&R · Post by **R4R&R** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:07 am

I've been able to route power cables up underneath the tank without removing it but it's not as neat. Normally I'll re-do them the next time I have the tank off.

Jonny_L · Post by **Jonny_L** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:51 am

I'll second that, I routed them along the side at first, then when I had to replace the battery on the bike, I re routed them under the tank nicely.

If you haven't already, do yourself a favour and get some black cable ties from B&Q, it makes it look much nicer.

Post by **rdsmith3** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:14 am

I agree with what is said above. However, you can carefully lift the tank, without removing it, to route the wires better. You remove the black plastic cover on the right side, the really big bolt on the right side that actually holds the tank, and the two screws on each side at the rear of the tank that attach the trim panels. Put a towel at the front edge of the tank. Gently lift the rear and hold it with something. This will allow you room to route the wires. You avoid the problem area of the fragile fuel disconnects and O rings, because you are not touching them. You are also not disconnecting the breather tubes or fuel pump wires. You are not removing the oil coolers.

So you save time, and avoid potential problems, but still get a neater wire routing job.

Boris Badenov · Post by **Boris Badenov** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:57 am

John,
Initially I was also looking for an easy way to connect but eventually decided to bite the bullet and do it right.
I have wired additional fuse block to the battery and routed GPS power cord underneath the gas tank to that block.

For me it was easier then to hack into existing wiringÃ¢â‚¬Â¦

texbid · Post by **texbid** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:11 pm

YES you do.

Routing the cable by hand will pass it very close to the ignigion coils. The tank comes off prety easily ...

"As my granpappy used to say. Anything worth doing is worth doing right."

R4R&R · Post by **R4R&R** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:23 pm

Boris Badenov wrote:John,
Initially I was also looking for an easy way to connect but eventually decided to bite the bullet and do it right.
I have wired additional fuse block to the battery and routed GPS power cord underneath the gas tank to that block.

For me it was easier then to hack into existing wiringÃ¢â‚¬Â¦

Ideally that's the best thing to do since you'll probably be adding more electrical accesories.

I wired up a switched fuse panel using a rely to control the power. Instead of cutting into the OEM harness for a tap to power the relay, I soldered a wire on the taillight socket. That tells the relay to power on a main feed directly connected to the positive batter cable, which in turn feeds power to the fuse panel.

Removing the tank is pretty quick and easy, so it's not that much of an inconvenience.

John I. Stephen · Post by **John I. Stephen** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:53 pm

As usual, I thank you all for the extremely helpful replies. Lifting the tank now seems less threatening. I'll try to do a good job !
Thanks

Post by **CycleRob** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:39 pm

R4R&R has the best solution in using the tailight power wire to actuate the relay coil because the key in the "Park" position also "key only" powers your accessories with minimal battery drain if you need your toys to work for a time period with the engine off.

The main power can best be accessed at the starter solenoid's upper fat copper stud terminal. Easy access. I'd pull the #5 fuse for the Motronic before breaking/making any power connections and reset it after putting the fuse back in. To route the wires, tank in place, I used a 2 foot length of coathanger wire and a lot of patience to pull the wires thru where they belong. Although I strongly advise against the average owner doing it, I've added my driving lite's relay BATT wire to the fat copper stud terminal with great care, while "hot". I don't like to remove the fueltank either.

jerseygeorge · Post by **jerseygeorge** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 3:52 pm

CycleRob wrote:R4R&R has the best solution in using the tailight power wire to actuate the relay coil because the key in the "Park" position also "key only" powers your accessories with minimal battery drain if you need your toys to work for a time period with the engine off.

The main power can best be accessed at the starter solenoid's upper fat copper stud terminal. with great care, while "hot". I don't like to remove the fueltank either.

I am putting a blue seas fuse box under the seat (R1150RS). I was planning on powering the box with a wire directly from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box. Then at the suggestion of a friend making a double ground connection. Why hook up at the starter versus the battery for the power supply?